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Unresolved Print fails shortly after starting every time

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by max longstaff, Jun 18, 2015.

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  1. max longstaff

    max longstaff Member

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    every print I do has stopped printing randomly and the software (cura) doesnt recognize it as it being stopped

    I did get an error code one but dont know what it means :/ (temperature fell too much during printing)

    Recv: ok T:209.4 /210.0 B:71.6 /70.0 T0:209.4 /210.0 @:53 B@:0
    Send: N6M107*3
    Recv: ok T:209.4 /210.0 B:71.6 /70.0 T0:209.4 /210.0 @:53 B@:0
    Send: N7G28*52
    Recv: ok
    Send: N8M565 Z-1.0*117
    Recv: ok
    Send: N9G29*59
    Recv: ok
    Send: N10G1 Z15.0 F9000*54
    Recv: Error:Extruder switched off. Temperature fell too much during print!
    Changing monitoring state from 'Printing' to 'Error: Extruder switched off. Temperature ...'
    Recv: Error:printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart. (Temperature is reset. Set it after restarting)
    Recv: ok
    Recv: Printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart. (Temperature is reset. Set it after restarting)
    Recv: ok
    Recv: Bed x: 15.00 y: 20.00 z: -0.11
    Recv: Bed x: 107.00 y: 20.00 z: 0.07
    Recv: Bed x: 199.00 y: 20.00 z: 0.39
    Recv: Bed x: 200.00 y: 130.00 z: 0.27
    Recv: Bed x: 108.00 y: 130.00 z: 0.03
    Recv: Bed x: 16.00 y: 130.00 z: -0.11
    Recv: Bed x: 15.00 y: 240.00 z: 0.23
    Recv: Bed x: 107.00 y: 240.00 z: 0.40
    Recv: Bed x: 199.00 y: 240.00 z: 0.68
    Recv: Eqn coefficients: a: 0.00 b: 0.00 d: -0.25
    Recv: planeNormal x: -0.00 y: -0.00 z: 1.00
    Recv: ok
    Recv: echo:endstops hit: Z:0.68
    Recv: ok

    dont know if that helps... i do have an e3d extruder with a stock heater would replacing the heater be the solution even though there is no fall in temperature
     
    #1 max longstaff, Jun 18, 2015
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    >Error:Extruder switched off. Temperature fell too much during print!<

    That means the thermistor reading for the hotend dropped a significant amount when it started printing.
    This is usually a loose thermistor or a broken thermistor. The drop is often momentary.
     
    #2 mark tomlinson, Jun 18, 2015
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  3. max longstaff

    max longstaff Member

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    ill try tightening it first then :) then ill try replacing it not sure how to put the v6 volcano in :/
     
    #3 max longstaff, Jun 18, 2015
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The volcano is an easy upgrade to the E3D. You replace the heater block and nozzles (heater core also when you do the heater block).
    Basically you keep the heat sink and heat break on the Original E3D and replace the other bits (the replacement heater core is 40w instead of 25w so you want to replace that as well).
     
    #4 mark tomlinson, Jun 18, 2015
  5. YellowMenace

    YellowMenace New Member

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    I'm having basically the same problem. I upgraded to the v6lite printhead and the threaded thermister. My themister isn't coming off or loose. I even stuck the old themister on to check and the same thing happened.
    I did upgrade the firmware to the June 10 version.
     
    #5 YellowMenace, Jun 19, 2015
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Then you might have a bad connection in the wire bundle or where it connects to the RAMPS.
    That error is an indication that the connection to the thermistor was lost or that the thermistor is broken.
     
    #6 mark tomlinson, Jun 19, 2015
  7. max longstaff

    max longstaff Member

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    just had a look at the error and it says us M999 to restart does this mean I can resume print? so far ive wasted 2 reels of filament with this printer
     
    #7 max longstaff, Jun 20, 2015
  8. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Did you fix the thermistor issue? Needs to be secure with no wiring problems
     
    #8 Mike Kelly, Jun 22, 2015
  9. max longstaff

    max longstaff Member

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    thermistor seems fine :/ ive tried a couple all do the same
     
    #9 max longstaff, Jul 4, 2015
  10. max longstaff

    max longstaff Member

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    i do have the stock thermistor but it doesnt fit in the hole and i have no way of mounting it
     
    #10 max longstaff, Jul 4, 2015
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Kapton tape. Wrap it next to the heater core on the heater block.
     
    #11 mark tomlinson, Jul 4, 2015
  12. Marquis Johnson

    Marquis Johnson Active Member

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    When I first switched to an E3D V6 my temperature would drop down about 10C on second layer. I changed the #define TEMP_HYSTERESIS from 3 to 15. After the first few layers the temperature would come right back up and hold for the rest of the print.

    Line 118 in configuration.h I believe.
     
    #12 Marquis Johnson, Jul 5, 2015
  13. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Better way to control temperature is to do your own PID tuning. Please note that Robo did the absolute minimum changes in Marlin's Configuration.h to get their printer running so the PID numbers are wrong. Auto tuning of PID is done with the M303 E0 S200 C8 command for the extruder and with M303 E-1 S60 C8 for the bed. When you are done, copy and paste the numbers into the appropriate spots in Configuration.h and if you want to be really helpful, into the thread I created in the General sub-forum.

    You can read all about it here: http://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning

    @Marquis Johnson, put the TEMP_HYSTERESIS back to 3 and then do a PID Auto Tune, you will have much better temperature control and won't have to worry about temperature drops like you describe.
     
    #13 WheresWaldo, Jul 5, 2015
  14. Marquis Johnson

    Marquis Johnson Active Member

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    It has been put back to 3 for some time now. It only happened when I first got it, I haven't had the problem since that first week, it just kind of came and went.
     
    #14 Marquis Johnson, Jul 5, 2015
  15. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    You should still do the auto-tune, it will allow Marlin to more tightly control temperature. It should be part of any calibration instructions.
     
    #15 WheresWaldo, Jul 5, 2015
  16. Marquis Johnson

    Marquis Johnson Active Member

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    Will do, thanks for the advice.
     
    #16 Marquis Johnson, Jul 5, 2015
  17. max longstaff

    max longstaff Member

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    thanks guys ill have a look im still new to 3d printing havent heard of PID before :S

    (p.s. Marquis yours and barnacules' videos on youtube were the thing that made me choose robo3d and e3d. thank you)
     
    #17 max longstaff, Jul 7, 2015
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  18. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    In its simplest form a PID controller is a closed feedback loop that on an interval measures for errors and then uses the difference for the next loop to lower the error differece. So PID controllers are generally useful when changing temperature so that you don't constantly overshoot or undershoot your target temperature..
     
    #18 WheresWaldo, Jul 7, 2015
  19. max longstaff

    max longstaff Member

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    I have now finished auto tuning and editing the firmware (problem uploading to board) will let you know soon how a print goes :)
     
    #19 max longstaff, Jul 7, 2015
  20. max longstaff

    max longstaff Member

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    same thing happens :/

    still says printing progress just stops and print is essentially indefinitely paused

    (got arduino to upload trying again) -- cut out sooner than previously :S

    Error:Extruder switched off. Temperature fell too much during print!
    Changing monitoring state from 'Printing' to 'Error: Extruder switched off. Temperature ...'
    Recv: Error:printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart. (Temperature is reset. Set it after restarting)
     
    #20 max longstaff, Jul 7, 2015
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2015
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