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R2 Bed Temp

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Lytmup, Jun 7, 2017.

  1. sgomes

    sgomes Active Member

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    Ah, I see, interesting! So it's basically a choice between:
    • Disable the startup code in the external slicer: this means a faster startup, but you have to stick to the default temps.
    • Keep the startup code in the external slicer: this results in a slower startup where the printer first goes to the default temps, and only then moves to the ones you set.
    Does that sound about right?
     
  2. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    You forgot strip out the OctoPrint settings and just let the sliced code do everything.

    This would be my way of doing it. Restores the speed and doesn't presuppose any settings.

    I always tell people that ask me to help with their printer setups to let the printer do the mechanical stuff, in this case Firmware and/or operating environment. And let you slicer handle the material/model stuff.
     
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  3. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Yes thats correct. And honeslty when the machine takes a few hours to days to print something, whats an extra few minutes on start up :D.
     
  4. sgomes

    sgomes Active Member

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    Oh, that's an option too? Cool, sounds like what I'll go for once I get my R2, then! Probably less wasted plastic on startup as well.
     
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  5. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Any kind of preheating will only save a minute or two, once you stop playing with your printer and start using your printer you will find out that you are printing items that take hours instead of minutes to print, what is the real impact of a print that takes 2:15 to print when preheated and 2:17 to print if it is not preheated.
     
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  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That was my choice. Since OctoPrint in my shop is running one printer only (I have multiple ones with OctoPrint but each have their own copy) I just edited the OctoPrint startup GCode block to handle it and all of the external slicers do not provide any startup GCode. The machine handles that.

    No you do not have to stick with default temps either. If the GCode specifies a different one it gets set after startup is done.
     
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  7. Ed Ferguson

    Ed Ferguson Active Member

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    Sgomes - I use Simplify3D with the Robo R2.

    In Simplify3D I set the Per-Layer Temperature Setpoint for Layer 1 and above to 190. I have no Start Code in Simplify3D.

    So even though the Robo OctoPrint startup script preheats the hotend to whatever temperature preset is defined in the OctoPrint settings / start code, the temperature changes to 190 when the slicer's GCode begins the print.

    So as Mark stated, the slicer has no start code and the Robo OctoPrint start code is used instead. And as Waldo stated, the printing temperature is defined by the slicer. And the nice thing is I can set up multiple "Processes" in the slicer so the temperature or layer height, for example, can change at a specified layer.
     
  8. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Actually, both Ed and Mark are technically inaccurate. S3D inserts startup code, there is no custom start up code is you empty the scripts tab.
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Well, yea, I am sure we meant "custom" start-up GCode :)

    pedantic people ... ;)
     
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  10. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    S3D has something that is actually pretty intelligent, say you put in a command to set temps in the Scripts tab under Start Up G-code it sees the custom code and removes it's own code that it would normally insert. If you don't have code that duplicates stuff S3D puts in automatically, it leaves its own G-code lines in place.

    But every checkbox or input you put into the PROCESS, if it requires start up code to make it happen, what a surprise, it puts in in the beginning of the sliced file.
     
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  11. jwmueller

    jwmueller Active Member

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    I just bumped up a print to 105C 37% into it, probably just fused the PLA to the plate... Took 6 minutes to go from 60C to 94.8C, set it back down after that. It has now cooled back down to 62 in the span of typing this post. I used the touch screen to change it, the stylus really does help.

    I plan to design a nice styli holder. ;)
     
  12. John M. Fruits

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    So,
    How did you get it past 80°c?

    I can set it to 90°, but it will top at at 80°


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  13. jwmueller

    jwmueller Active Member

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    I did it during an active print through the touchscreen options.
     
  14. danjomite

    danjomite New Member

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    I was also having this issue and then I cranked the B value in the EEPROM up to 30000 as someone suggested and it starts to print at around 79.3 degrees.

    Anyone with an R2 though, does your print bed take about 20 minutes to get up to around 75 or 80 degrees as well? I'm not sure if this is normal or not.
     
  15. adikted2astro

    adikted2astro Active Member

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    It's been a while since this thread was active, so I'll just throw in my 2 cents. Yes, my R2 takes a while to get from ambient to 80 or 90 (at least 20 minutes). Even if I preheat the bed, that damn auto bed-leveling routine will kill 30 degrees off the preheat temp no matter what I do. And I always make sure the bed and extruder are stabilized at temp before printing starts, so it takes a while to start an ABS print (85 C).

    I have been able to get my bed up to 90C, but I cannot go any higher. Seems like the problem can be fixed using EEPROM settings though (I didn't know that). However, if I ever do have to go above 90C, I'll make a hood for my R2. It would be a lot easier to set and maintain high temps if the entire print volume was enclosed.
     
  16. jwmueller

    jwmueller Active Member

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    Mine takes just at 10-mins to reach 70C with a borosilicate bed in place, 3mm. I do preheat the bed before I start a print.

    I tried a hood and the heat soak in to the stepper was too much and it reached a point to where PETG on the hobbed gear got soft and failed. With all the plastic around the stepper it has nothing to help, my printer room was at 75F during this test. Just a cardboard top with an 8" square hole, roughly 10" high to not bother the cable. Print failed around 2-hours into things. Even for normal printing I have a heatsink on my stepper as it always gets hotter than my other printers.
     
  17. adikted2astro

    adikted2astro Active Member

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    Hmmmm interesting. I didn't think of that.

    At the time I tried high temp prints, I had the original sheet of PEI attached to the bed. I took it off a few days ago and I don't think I'll be using PEI sheets in the future (maaaybe).

    I have a couple of questions for you. I apologize, but I'm very interested in any mods/upgrades, regardless. Anyways, may I ask the dimensions of the glass you are using (length and width)? I can only find 8" x 8" glass. Would be nice to get 8.25" x 8.25".

    Also, could you upload a pic of the heatsink you are using on your stepper?
     
  18. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    Change your startup Gcode to include a non-blocking temp set before the auto-levelling (or remove auto-levelling altogether).
     

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