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Unanswered Robo R1+ Issues (Leaning + LCD Contoller)

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Hobbit, Jan 8, 2017.

  1. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    If he is using mesh leveling firmware I think we may be steering him wrong on the offset script? Isn't that a different offset set up in the start up script?
     
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  2. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Yep, you have to use G29 S4 Zn.nn for the offset, It is plainly stated in my descriptions of the Marlin 1.1.0 firmwares.

    But he mentions ABL which uses M851 Zn.nn.

    This will all be easier once Unified Bed Leveling is implemented in Marlin (UBL)
     
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  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I think we almost need a subforum for folks using the marlin firmware so we can make sure that we know :)
     
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  4. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    thats right! lol only took us 6 months to get the c2 section lol.
     
  5. Hobbit

    Hobbit New Member

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    Sorry for the confusion everyone.

    I want to do(atleast trying to do) the mesh leveling so I should remove:
    M565 Z-.4; set the offset for auto-leveling mechanism

    And replace with:
    G29 S4 Z-0.4

    Correct?

    I'm open to any firmware that will work and do what I want it to do . I just updated the default because of the issues I was having.

    With the bed, I checked the belt tension with the bed in the middle and the belt seems pretty tight but I'm unsure how tight it should be?
    I took out the timing pulley from the bottom and the two set screws are tight and seem don't seem to get any tighter. I am at work today so I can test some more things in a few hours.
     
  6. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Hobbit, G29 S4 Z0.4 because the way they did it with M565 made no sense. You are lifting the extruder so it is positive number. M565 was just dumb with more negative being further away.
    Code:
    G29 S4 Z0.4
    That is for MANUAL MESH LEVELING only.

    If you are using Auto-Bed-Leveling then it would be M851 Z0.4. Again positive moves it away from the bed, negative drives it into the bed.
    Code:
    M851 Z0.4
    You have to look at it like this, most every other printer uses something other than the hotend as a probe to indicate where Z0 is located. The distance from where the probe triggers and where the hotend nozzle is what you are really setting .Although the implementation could be better, Robo had a stroke of brilliance in deciding to make the actual nozzle the probe. So we use the offset to account for Bed flex and the fact that the switches need a bit more movement to trigger. Not really the intended purpose of the Z-Offset but it works and is pretty nifty.
     
    #46 WheresWaldo, Jan 12, 2017
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2017
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  7. Hobbit

    Hobbit New Member

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    Thank you again for all the help. With the bed belt, I think it's pretty tight but I mean how tight should it be? I assume not crazy tight? I thought I read that somewhere. No wires hit anything, I have the wires for the belt on its latch connected to the back of the rails.
     
  8. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    If you think it may be on the loose side snug both screws up just a bit and test
     
  9. Hobbit

    Hobbit New Member

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    Are you talking about the timing pulley screws or the the screws where the belt ends? Or are you saying to tighten the belt?
     
  10. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    The belt, two Phillips screws on the ends but yes check the set screws as well
     
  11. Hobbit

    Hobbit New Member

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    Ok I'll get it a shot when I get home! Thanks, you're the man!
     
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  12. Hobbit

    Hobbit New Member

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    Screws are tightened again on both. Still leaning the same amount. Should I tighten the belt more then?
     
  13. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    The lean of a full bed will only be corrected my manually shimming the bed up on the low side
     
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