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RoBo3D Autolevel via Mike Kelly

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Mike Kelly, Jun 1, 2014.

  1. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    That's tricky then. They definitely exist in the world. Your local hardware store might have better stock than the internet
     
  2. Tony Janus

    Tony Janus Member

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    I've run into the same issue regarding only being able to find couplers that fit an 11mm wrench, could not for the life of me find the 13mm ones. So I designed a cap that should fit. I printed them out (very slowly, like 10-15) and they came out perfect (minus some minor exacto knife work on leftover brim.)

    Link to Thingiverse:

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:531976

    As stated on the page, I used PLA, but don't know what material would have the best durability for this use. Any advice on that would be awesome! Thanks.
     
    #102 Tony Janus, Nov 5, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 5, 2014
    2 people like this.
  3. Tony Janus

    Tony Janus Member

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    Nevermind of this whole post, just got it up and running. Had a bad switch that was the problem.

    Works wonderfully. My carriage isn't even leveled to the bed yet, and it was perfect first shot.
     
    #103 Tony Janus, Nov 12, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 13, 2014
  4. Francois

    Francois New Member

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    @Mike: do you have some picture of your auteleveller installed ?
    Is it onlu one piece each side for z leveller to print ? I dont"-' see how this system work ?
    Thanks a lot for your reponse.
     
  5. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    This is the stock method:

    [​IMG]

    Yes there is a switch per side. My method uses the NO leg in the OP
     
  6. Francois

    Francois New Member

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    Thx mike. Ok, the olds nuts M8 are replaced by theses ones.
    That's what I did not understand

    thx ;)
     
  7. Lew

    Lew Member

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    Mike, I have completed the installation of your version of the Auto Level mod. I thought it was working last night, but not now. The symptom is that the Z carriage continues to drop after the either or both switches are unseated. I have checked the following:
    1) The switches are in series and use the NO contacts.
    2) The statement const bool Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false;
    3) The switches are connected in place of the original Z end stop switch.
    4) Automatic Print Leveling is ENABLED in Matter Control.
    5) I recompiled and uploaded the firmware from http://forums.robo3dprinter.com/index.php?attachments/auto_level_series-zip.3241/

    What have I missed???
     
  8. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Ok number 4 is probably the issue. Automatic Print Leveling is an outdated method and should be disabled.

    The firmware and method I use is designed so that it's not possible to throw out the nuts. If there was an error it would just cause the axis to raise not lower.

    Sending M119 in terminal will tell you if the switches are working.
     
  9. Lew

    Lew Member

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    Bingo! That seems to have cured it, Mike.

    Thanks for your quick response!
    Cheers,
    Lew
     
  10. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Just be sure there's a G29 command in the start up gcode
     
  11. Lew

    Lew Member

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    I spoke too soon.
    It doesn't prevent the carriage from dropping when pressing the Z- button even though the switches are unloaded. The M119 command yields the following when the switches are loaded (closed)
    ->M119
    <-Reporting endstop status
    <-x_min: TRIGGERED
    <-y_min: TRIGGERED
    <-z_min: TRIGGERED
    <-ok
    ->M105
    <-ok T:16.9 /0.0 B:16.5 /0.0 T0:16.9 /0.0 @:0 B@:0

    AND THE SAME WHEN UNLOADED:
    ->M119
    <-Reporting endstop status
    <-x_min: TRIGGERED
    <-y_min: TRIGGERED
    <-z_min: TRIGGERED
    <-ok
    ->M105
    <-ok T:16.9 /0.0 B:16.2 /0.0 T0:16.9 /0.0 @:0 B@:0
    Yet the switches measure as they should with an ohmmeter.
    ??
     
  12. Lew

    Lew Member

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    Starting custom gcode is:
    G28 ; home all axes
    G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle
    G1 Z0.9 ;Adjust Z offset
    G92 Z0 ;Define new Z home
    G29 ;Autocalibrate bed
     
  13. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Since a triggered = an open circuit. My only thought is they're plugged into the wrong position.
     
  14. Lew

    Lew Member

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    Just noticed that testing the switches with them disconnected from the Arduino, the measure open when unloaded, 0 ohms when loaded. But with the switches connected to the board, they measure 0 ohms when unloaded but 100 ohms when loaded. Is there a problem on the Arduino board?
     
  15. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    That's normal I suspect. Lemme test real quick.

    You can test the switches by using a piece of metal to jumper the connector and send a M119 command.

    Open = Closed Circuit
    Triggered = Open Circuit.
     
  16. Lew

    Lew Member

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    I'll check the position again, but they are plugged in where I believe correct - on the endstop pins, first X, skip one, then Y, skip one, then Z and on the two pins closest to the edge of the board. I'd post a photo, but my printer is well away from the computer with the photos.
     
  17. Lew

    Lew Member

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    OK, completely disconnecting the switch connections at the board, I get
    <-Reporting endstop status
    <-x_min: TRIGGERED
    <-y_min: TRIGGERED
    <-z_min: TRIGGERED

    Then shorting the 2 pins on the board and sending the M119 command again, I get
    <-Reporting endstop status
    <-x_min: TRIGGERED
    <-y_min: TRIGGERED
    <-z_min: open

    So by my thinking, I have something wrong with the switches or wiring. Agreed?
     
  18. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    [​IMG]

    What you describe sounds correct.

    Just measured the resistance across S pin and - and it shows open circuit
     
  19. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Yeah it must be wiring then
     
  20. Lew

    Lew Member

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    OK, I'm on to it. The switches are a bit fiddly. That will teach me to buy "going out of business" parts from Radio Shack.

    Thanks again, Mike.
     
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