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Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Mike Kelly, Jun 1, 2014.
thanks mike im so close to having my printer back on line
does this look right? i.e. does the lift nozzle command sit after the code?
looks fine to me
I got my R1 last week. Does this thread still apply for these G-code updates?
My G-Code in MatterControl reads as follows...
G28 ; home all axes
G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle
M109 S[temperature] ; set the extruder temp and wait
G28 Z0 ; Home Z again in case there was filament on nozzle
G29 ; probe the bed
excellent work Mike.
I have never used matter control, and cant find out how to "flash the board" with your files.
where do I put your files?
what do I do in matter control to use your files?
I use Arduino IDE to flash my board. Load the complete auto_level_series_6_10 and then click upload.
The files should all stay in the folder that matches the name of the .ino file.
I think it's possible to flash firmwares in MC but I've never done it.
Just to be clear you did my mod youself, and not purchased from team robo?
I have received the upgrade kit from ROBO - what I do not see - after I will have installed both addional Switches -where do I connect them? A connector on the RAMPS board? And what about the original single Z-Axis home Switch?
I assume that I haven´t understood the entire upgrade process yet...Maybe someone can advise me?
Flashing/changing Firmware - no Problem for me! Just about how to wire...
The switches plug into the Z- spot on the ramps board Where it says Z Endstop
This switch assembly replaces the original Z endstop entirely. You can remove it.
Just to be clear, if you have 4 wires going into the connector plug you need to install Auto_Level_6_10
If you modify your wiring to be in series as I suggest here, use the firmware in the OP
perfect and clear now! THANK YOU!!!
I never could get the ABLC with repitier host to work. The nozzle always was on the glass. So I downloaded matter control and used the auto leveling setup that is in the software. It only used 3 test points instead of the 9 in g29. After about 1 hr of printing it kept running but was not extruding pla. I found that the serrated shaft nearly eat through the pla and filled the grooves with plastic. I only had this happen with abs when the temp was too low. In over 100 pla jobs it never happened. Also the top surface of the first layer is very rough as if the nozzle is dragging along the surface. The temp was 200 and I tried 205. Same thing! It defaulted to.4mm first layer height and it measured at .41-.42. Any suggestions?
Are you still too low? Pictures help
You can see the dragging then eventually it stops extruding. The gear is still turning but the hob is full of plastic and doesn't push. This was at 200c , same as always. Only difference is I usually print at 0.2mm and MC defaults to .4 which was ok by me as this is a big job (9hr)
That's too low.
When the first layer is too low, it causes the material to push out the sides of the nozzle as it goes by creating a ripple effect that clumps even worse on the next pass. It also creates pressure inside the hotend that prevents the hobbed bolt from pushing smoothly, thereby chewing or binding the filament.
Thats what that problem is! Ive been trying to figure that out for weeks!
I suspected that, but with the auto leveling working just before the print, how do you fix it?
Increase your Z offset
With repitier host all prints went to center of glass. With matter control it prints to the front. How do you tell MC where on the bed to print? Also when it goes through G29 it shows in the terminal view Z numbers in the range of .87 to 1.02 for the 9 points. Does that mean I should set Z to .8 or 1.02?
I installed the ABLC per Mikes instructions. I now want to install the new E3Dv6 I just got. What if any do I have to change? I also got the new thermistor that screws into the side of the head. How do I calibrate the new thermistor?
Billm, do a quick search. This has been answered dozens of times. You need to change two #defines in configuration.h, one for the thermistor type (see E3D website) and one for the max temperature. Also search for the PID calibration procedure for the thermistor (here or other forums). I did it but it is probably not needed.
I yet I did not performed the upgrade as I will do it together with the replacement of my broken hot end.
Anyway, what I see now behind the entire logic - please correct me if I´m wrong -
1. The use of two switches is with regard to the general function is not necessary
One switch either left hand, right hand would do the same job at the same accuracy
Two switches needed to provide redundancy. But redundancy only given if switches are wired in series as you suggested.
2. The adjustent of the two switches/switching point to each other is absolut irrelevant and not really necessary - even if it varies by 1-2 mm.
This because the digital offset values of either switch 1 or switch 2 (the first who always activates) will be determined/messures in the final procedure (Paper sheet, GAP, etc.) and values entered into the custom G-Code part for Auto Level.
As both switches in parallel or series are connected
The switch which "always" activates/trigger the print bed offset measurement will be either switch 1 "or" switch 2 depending to its mechanically closer position. The other switch in series (which would trigger later) is just the backup switch.
Taking above into consideration - also for easyness, both switches can be installed at the same site - mechanically in parallel, electronically better in series ....?