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Robo3D Replacements and Upgrades Thread

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Kaan, Sep 7, 2015.

  1. WADZOQUADZ

    WADZOQUADZ Member

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    I just finished my carriage and extruder redesign for E3D v6 and it works much better then the original parts. Fitment is excellent . Basically the hotend no longer needs its own screws which deform the hotend. the hotend slides into the carriage and extruder locks it down . Also added to the carriage is new belt mounts with built in tensioner and a tslot for a fan thats also included. I suggest using new lm8uu bearings for the new carriage as they are cheap and easier to install then need to remove from the original carriage then reinstall. You will also need a 3mm screw and nut for the belt tensioner. I did the leadscrew upgrade on my R1 at the same time and my printer is definitely printing better then ever. Just printed some PETG flawlessly . I print PETG (Esun brand) at 240 with 80 degree bed temp (50mm/sec) and no print fan .Prints perfect but a little harder then PLA to pop off the bed.

    Thingiverse files
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1411833
     
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  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Always great to see people making modifications and improvements.
    3D printing is amazingly incestuous like that :)
     
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  3. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    very cool. Thank you for sharing !
     
  4. Scifideity

    Scifideity Member

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    I'm geeking out. My R1+ is due to arrive later today. Can't wait to have a print volume bigger than 120cu in :D

    Are there any of these mods/upgrades that would be recommended to get taken care of early on?

    Are there any of the parts that I should go ahead and print backups of just in case?

    Any non printable parts that would be prudent to have onsite?

    I'm not expecting any issues but the old boy scout in me likes to be prepared.
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    1) not really urgent. The R1+ has most everything done initially.
    2) Everything printable -- Print.
    3) Everything else :)

    If you want to minimize down time then eventually stock spares for everything.
    With the open design you can get parts for the printer just about anywhere.
     
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  6. Scifideity

    Scifideity Member

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    Very cool. Thanks :)
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It sounds trite, but seriously there is not a lot of money invested in the electronics. You can have spares of everything for not a lot of scratch :) I'd say neighborhood of $100 (US) or less if you shop around.
     
  8. Scifideity

    Scifideity Member

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    Na, not trite. Any info is good info to me. :) I just hope my questions aren't annoying.

    I have a smaller MOD-t that only prints PLA. Could I use that to make spare parts (when its working) or would ABS be better on the Robo?

    I know the Robo comes with 6mo warranty. Whats the average turn around time for parts during that period?
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    For 99% of the plastic parts on the printer PLA is fine.
    You can probably use PLA for everything (frankly) since nothing really gets hot enough to matter.
    Also, don't forget that there is a multitude more than PLA and ABS. :)
     
  10. Scifideity

    Scifideity Member

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    Yup, that was one of the major factors for me in deciding to go with the Robo. I only have the MOD-t because I got in on the Early Bird deal and got in super cheap. It's a one trick pony with small volume but gets small jobs done when it works.

    I'm looking forward to seeing what all I can do with the various materials I'll be able to use now.
     
  11. TstarkEngineering

    TstarkEngineering Active Member

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    Just remember if something breaks and you have another printer that only does pla but still want them in abs. Print the part on your other machine in pla then install it on the R1 and then print the abs part.
     
  12. Scifideity

    Scifideity Member

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    Good tip. thx :)
     
  13. WADZOQUADZ

    WADZOQUADZ Member

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    Esun PETG prints amazing on the R1+ . This is my goto material now. Stronger and more heat resistant then PLA and Prints even better then PLA with no warp. 240degrees w/ 80 bed. no fan

    Personally the best first upgrade imo is buying simplify3D . Well worth the money. You should also print a top mount spool holder imo .The original R1 holder was the main cause of failed prints for me from the filament getting stuck. Havent had that issue since i printed a top mount . Make sure to print a good one though that wont break and have the spool go through your bed. (never happened to me but iv heard it happen b4) I use this one printed with at 60% infill or more.
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:267039

    Later down the road if you want to print ninjaflex and such you may want to upgrade to a E3D V6 hotend but for now the hexagon is a very good hotend.
     
    #33 WADZOQUADZ, Mar 25, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2016
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  14. Scifideity

    Scifideity Member

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    NinjaFlex is definitely on my list of "to experiment with". James over at xrobots does some amazing stuff with it.

    I had researched the Robo on a general level when I started shopping for a bigger/better machine but I was definitely surprised when I placed the order and then jumped into this Forum to discover the upgrade-ability of it. The E3D v6 is definitely on my list very soon.

    I have been looking at the top mount spool holders yesterday and will get one picked and printed up today once I get this z axis stuff tweaked/figured out.

    Thanks for the info!
     
  15. WADZOQUADZ

    WADZOQUADZ Member

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    i have a RoboR1(modded to plus) a Makerfarm i3v 12" and had a replicator. iv got to say the Robo is by far my favorite . Ready to print Great right out of the box ,no real setup or manual leveling thanks to the autolevel..It just doesnt have the fussiness that all the other printers have . Plus in a finished looking package and still highly moddable like other prusa types. For the money it cant be beat . The new price of 499 for the original R1 makes it a no brainer for anyone looking for a good cheap printer.
     
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  16. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I don't recommend the top spool holder, I know a lot of people do it but I bought the 2 spool holder from hatch box and mounted it on the wall... I figured under 15.00 for a decent holder or 90.00 for a new bed... No brainier lol.

    As far as the plus is concerned that's the printer I have.

    I have only done the dual fan mod (makes a drastic difference on pla as well as other material) bought the fans and just connectors from Amazon, simplify 3d(my favorite upgrade after the free slicers just were not for me), e3dv6- maintainable hot end was the selling point for me and a plus is handles exotic filaments well, and the rep rap xxl lcd screen. I spread this out over 8 months or so that way it wasn't so much money up front. My list of importance if I get a 2nd robo is...


    1. Printer and another hatch is spool holder
    2. Dual fan
    3. Lcd controller
    4. E3dv6
    5. Slicer of choice (as stated simplify for me)

    As always this is just an opinion based off what I did and as always with this amazing forum if you have a question just ask :) these guys are awesome
     
  17. Scifideity

    Scifideity Member

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    HI Geof

    I've already printed and installed the top spool holder recommended by WADZOQUADZ and it came out pretty good. Feels really strong printed at 60% infill. It's working like a champ so far but I do like your idea of a wall mounted solution above and behind the Robo.

    I found Novice Expert's Youtube channel and am learning a lot from him. I saw his E3D v6 snap on dual fan setup and then discovered goldentuna1200 remixed it for the stock hexagon:

    Stock hexagon hot end snap on dual fan mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1374049 (Maybe Kaan can add this to the OP)

    I'm going to give this one a try until I get around to the E3Dv6. Is there a particular fan that is better than others for the additional fan?

    The LCD control looks really useful and cool I found a good video of the 'XXL Smart LCD Controler and a SD Card reader' that really helped sell me on it :)

    The E3Dv6 is definitely on my list as is S3D

    Now to prioritize and budget :)

    Thanks for the info
     
  18. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I used the cheapo evercool from Amazon (40x40x10). It's a 3 wire, I cut out the extra wire and it works fine, made a y with jst connectors so if a fan fails I can unplug it from the y connectors and keep running the other fan and didn't have to chop up the oem harness. People are bothered by the noise and buy better more expensive fans, but I'm not bothered at all :) so cheapo works for me.

    I rocked the hex until it gave me issues with oversized filament and flexible, if your going to upgrade to the e3dv6 is do it after the stock hex gives you issues. I had very nice prints with it until it didn't fit my need.

    Xxl controller (bought mine from printed solid.com) was something I wish I had done sooner. Frees up the laptop for practicing cad and making models.
     
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  19. WADZOQUADZ

    WADZOQUADZ Member

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    Yea iv had this spool holder for a long time now and i really cant picture it breaking . Its rock solid. I even had a issue when i first installed it and it got caught on my LED strip up there and i had to vigorously twist and tug it to get it off the LEDS and it didnt hurt the spool holder one bit. I cant see having a spool holder that works better. Having it attached to the wall is nice but having the filament directly vertical has the best functionality IMO

    I made this whole extruder assembly which holds the e3d a lot more solid then the original carriage also has built in tslot for the included fan mount and a different belt mount setup that can adjust tension. its working great for me .
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1411833

    I was using noviceExperts clip on fan mount originally which is a nice mount . The problem however is the original carriage holding the E3D Poorly. My fan mount that works with my carriage is like NE's but Tslot slide on.

    If you get a LCD which is a must , i recommend the graphic lcd over the xxl . I have the xxl on my Robo and Reprap Graphic on my Makerfarm and imo the graphic LCD is much nicer and can be found for cheap.I dont think iv had my printer connected to my pc more then twice since i got the printer. Just pop the sd card in the lcd and press print. No need to worry about your computer restarted or anything like that. Put the printer wherever you want. etc

    S3D is by far the best upgrade i got for my printers.
     
    #39 WADZOQUADZ, Mar 28, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2016
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  20. dbvanhorn

    dbvanhorn Active Member

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    Is there a source for the heated printbed? I am loosing divots out of the glass.
     

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