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Robo3D Replacements and Upgrades Thread

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Kaan, Sep 7, 2015.

  1. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
    Staff Member

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    @dbvanhorn You have several options,
    Easiest
    Contact Robo and get a direct replacement glass bed and heater​
    Harder
    Get a new piece of glass online or at a local glass place and glue new magnets on and get a new heater pad. This option may require new wiring. You could also replace the glass with aluminum.​
    Hardest
    Pull off the old heater, Get a new piece of glass or aluminum and put the heater back on. I call this one the hardest because the heater is just damn hard to pull off the original glass bed.​
     
    Robert Foreman likes this.
  2. dbvanhorn

    dbvanhorn Active Member

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    Robo website says none available. I will contact directly.

    One interesting thing that's happening, which I "fixed" with some G code is that the nozzle was catching on the latest divot as it goes home from the bed leveling. This would seem impossible, but when the printhead comes down to the bed, the weight of the head presses the bed down slightly. So after the level, the printhead would go up some amount, but not enough to compensate for the height of the bed with no weight on it.

    "fixed" by:
    G29 ; probe the bed
    G1 Z10.0 ; Lift 10mm
    G1 X0 Y0 Z10; Home X and Y while keeping Z lifted.

    (Sort of waiting for someone to tell me that Matter Control is causing my printbed divot problem)
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Hey, we never miss a chance to blame mattercontrol for stuff.
    (sadly, often correctly)
     
    Robert Foreman, JayT and Geof like this.
  4. GAmbrosio

    GAmbrosio Active Member

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    Using the Noctua 40x10mm to swap out the ramps/mega cooling fan. I remix, read:stole, Geof's idea but took it a step further, not splicing no cutting, I ordered some wires with Dupont M/F ends and plugged it into the female connect on the fan and to the ramps, heat shrink to secure done...I realize Geof is talking about the parts fan, but I am guessing you can do it the same way with JST connectors and Duponts with heat shrink. :) solderless...
     
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  5. tom1441

    tom1441 New Member

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    Nice theard
     
  6. Chuck Erwin

    Chuck Erwin Active Member

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    It caused my magnets to fall off my printbed, true story-- well sort of
     
  7. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    What? MC messed up your magnets? That's funny. I may need to hear more about that story. haha
     
  8. JoshYourITGuy

    JoshYourITGuy Active Member

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    Does anyone have an STL of the bed wire holder?
    This is the flattish piece holding the flat ribbon cable (not grey cable from KS model) and is screwed onto the Y-axis end cap?
    Broke mine and for the life of me can't find the other half to model it.
     
  9. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1450925 Is this what you are after?
     
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  10. JoshYourITGuy

    JoshYourITGuy Active Member

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    Not the stock clip, but looks like it will work better.
    I kept searching for wire clamp, bed clamp, etc.
    Thank you!
     
  11. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I've heard this one works better than the stock one. I haven't used it personally.
     
  12. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    I removed that damn clip right away. It was causing issues with the Y-Axis Movement. After removal, I have not had an issue yet.
     
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  13. TexasToon

    TexasToon New Member

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    Does anyone have a source for a replacement 40mm cooling fan? Obviously I can plenty of 40mm 12v fans but I can't find one that has a 2pin plug/socket that fits my Robo.

    If there isn't a readily available replacement is there a recommended conversion for something I can get from my local Frys or from Amazon?
     
  14. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PQ0YV2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Get some of those and solder them on. I believe the wire coloring is backwards though so you will want to check that first before soldering. I know I didn't check and the colors were flipped so I basically forced the clip into the female connector at the extruder (would definitely not recommend anyone to do that:D). I already had them soldered and heat shrunk, so didn't want to tear apart again.
     

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