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Starting to get frustrated

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by trevely, Aug 5, 2018.

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  1. trevely

    trevely New Member

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    Hi all,

    I'm not sure what is going on but lately I've been having problems with my prints ruining the sheet on the bed when trying to get the prints off. It's not the removal tool that's doing it, it's the prints being stuck to the bed and part of the bed sheet coming up with the print. I've ran all the utilities to level the bed and it's not too close to the nozzle, I even have it to where the paper doesn't even touch the nozzle when leveling. See attached for what I'm talking about. Any help is greatly appreciated as I can't keep replacing these things after a few prints. This was a brand new sheet that I had only done 3 prints on with the Robo R2.

    Thanks,
    Tyrone
     

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  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If I print too low with the initial layer on the C2 it will stick too hard to the material on the bed and cause it to get wrecked when I remove the print. Try tweaking the Z offset a tiny bit higher
     
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  3. trevely

    trevely New Member

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    Hi Mark, I'll give that a try and see what happens.
    Thanks for the help.
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Granted on the C2 it is just a paper bed liner, but still they can be used a fair number of times before they need replacement if you have it working correctly. Maybe one of the R2 Gurus (@Geof or someone else) can jump in and comment.
     
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  5. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Same. Buildtak is an odd bird in that PLA and some other types stick...too well to it...if the first layer is to close. Like @mark tomlinson said I'd try adjusting the offset to be further away. You can also use (I know this will sound crazy) some hairspray or some glue on the buildtak which can alleviate sticking to hard by creating an interference layer between the part and the buildtak, sounds nuts but does work. I kind of like glue stick because I can rub it on, then use a damp cloth to "smear it" back around after the print so I dont have to replace it. Please give either option a shot and let us know how it goes.
     
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  6. trevely

    trevely New Member

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    Thanks for those suggestions as well Geof, I will give them a try. I do have one more sheet as I ordered 2 in my last order just because of this issue. Hopefully one of these suggestions will help me. I appreciate all the help and will let you know how it goes.
     
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  7. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    Maybe you mentioned it already, but you need to be sure you are letting the buildtak and print cool completely before removing it, or you run the risk of delaminating the buildtak and causing bubbles.



    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
     
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  8. trevely

    trevely New Member

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    I didn't mention that before but I have tried to let it cool down then remove it but not much luck. I've also let it cool down then heat it back up to see if that would make a difference but it really didn't. I'm doing a print right now and I used hairspray as suggested by Geof and I'll just try a combination of hairspray and letting it cool all the way down by turning off the printer to see what that will do. I will keep you all posted and thanks for the help.
     
  9. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Make sure you wait until the hotend has cooled down past 70 degrees (you dont want to shut off the machine before the material hardens back up- shutting off the machine shuts off the cold end cooling fan- not good when hot) you can end up with a nasty jam. Please do let us know what happens. Make sure to increase the distance for that first layer a few notches as well (small increases will help and should not effect your first layer)
     
  10. drbanks

    drbanks Active Member

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    I so much got into the habit of setting my Z-Offset on BuildTak so high that after I get a print unstuck, I don't have to walk around the room to find it, that I was completely unprepared for the PEI on my Prusa. With that, you really want to crank PLA down hard (nearly to the point of making the extruder click) if you want it to stick at all.
     
  11. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I've never had that experience with PEI. Sounds like its dirty or needs scuffed up like there is a coating on it or something.
     
  12. drbanks

    drbanks Active Member

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    It caused my first MK3 to eat itself. A part came loose after it'd already laid down a good first few layers, ended up in a death blob and getting it off ended up breaking the thermistor wire. When I looked at what it'd take to replace the hot end, I discovered that it ain't nearly as easy as the Hexagon on the R2, and just had them replace the damned thing. On the replacement, I again had serious bed adhesion with their PLA until I really cranked the Z-Offset down. Haven't had an issue since (with PLA), but am having the opposite issue with nGen, which is somewhat predictable for a co-poly.

    And, after upgrading my R2 to a flexiplate, I got a second plate that I put a PEI sheet on, and again discovered PLA adhesion issues. Moral of the story is that a Z-Offset high enough that PLA doesn't weld itself to Build-Tak is way too high for PEI.
     
  13. bill Snyder

    bill Snyder New Member

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    glue stick works great then putting it in the freezer and part pops off.
     
  14. trevely

    trevely New Member

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    Thank you all for the suggestions as I've had about 4 successful prints by adding some hairspray to the bed, lowering the z offset and letting it cool down so we will see. But now I have a clogged nozzle (fix one thing and another happens) and there is so much gunk on the hotend I'm not sure if I will be able to get the nozzle off. I've been scraping stuff off so hopefully I'll be able to get this fixed. I appreciate all the help.
     
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  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Make sure you heat it before trying to remove it :)
     
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  16. trevely

    trevely New Member

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    Tried that, didn't work at all.... When I get a clog I make sure it's really clogged up :D
     
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    How hot did you go before trying to loosen it?
    I usually suggest 250c, but you can go to 270c if need be.
    No fans running of course :)
     
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  18. trevely

    trevely New Member

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    I went to 240c but I'll take it higher and see if it helps.
    Thanks.
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Not really hot enough most likely I am sure they snug them in at ABS temps or slightly higher actually so 240c would be a wee bit low :)

    Usually 250c works.
     
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  20. Jerome Helbert

    Jerome Helbert New Member

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    I usually hit my nozzles with a brass brush while its hot. Seems to do a great job cleaning all the plastic off (just stick to the cold bristles and comes right off.

    No idea if I am causing any excessive wear and tear on the nozzle, but so far it hasn't seemed to affect prints at all.
     
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