Thermistor wire damage issue

If it failed under warranty you should not have to pay to fix it at all. You especially shouldn't need to invest in all this equipment. Have they asked you to buy this stuff or have they assumed that you already have it?

After almost 3 weeks of useless from tech support i just repaired mine myself, no use in trying to keep my warranty if they won't even do anything to help if something goes wrong. Mine was a very simple fault though so I'm in a different boat to you. You can try selling your printer on the forum and get most of your money back? It's probably a quick fix for someone with the right tools and know-how?

 

lol in not selling a broken printer to anyone who know's the extent to the problem . At this point I waited over 10 weeks for delivery to have my printer fail after the first print that was longer than 1 hr . It almost caught fire thank god I had the printer on a tiled table if not my house could of been burnt down .its why I ask if it's UL approved . At this point I want an RMA # and a full refund . They can fix it and give it someone else . I never knew I would have this many problems with a brand and new unit.

 

Completely agree with you. My fault also could have caught fire. Problem is that they are so unresponsive and useless on e-mail, and there's no other contact method. It would be much easier to sort things out if there was a phone number or something.

 

Agreed ..phone support is needed in the worst way . This email crap get's lost in translation . No way can it be better than actually speaking to someone. . Well I'm going to give them this weekend to make good .
Next weekend I'll deem my printer a loss. And then I will.. Well don't wanna go there yet . I will give them the benifit of the doubt that there working on my issue. Either a full replacement or some sort of plug and play option .

 

I wish you luck, keep us updated

 

If you're not clear on what the issue is they won't know what to give you to fix it.

It's also not clear the damage wasn't caused by something you did because you've never explained the situation

They simple don't have funding for phone support yet. This is not some multimillion dollar venture. It's a tiny startup doing everything they can to sell a low cost printer above all else.

If you can't appreciate this. Buy a stratasys.

 

Mike I'm sorry I don't know the issue . I wish I could give you more information . All I can tell you is the wire to the controller from the heat bed melted .
If I had a video to show me what I should test for step by step , then I can provide more information, wish I knew . Btw Don't know what I'm testing and for what , resistance , power , high voltage , low voltage , continuity . Yes I can provide you information if I knew what . You talk about ramps , MOSFET , ect . It's like talking chinese .
You ask me to provide more info , and you expect me to be an electrical engineer with testing equipment handy .
I will buy a tester but what should I buy what should I test .?just want my printer working bottom line .
I'm so confused Brandon tells me to wait for Support team to get back to me , you tell me basically they never know whats up with my printer without this info .. I'll buy a tester if I need to.

 

Honestly everyone ever should own a multimeter. It's as useful to have around the house as a plunger.

Did you read the post I wrote up? I need you to add onto what I wrote

 

Thank you thank you thank you .. Have a great weekend guys .. Drink up!!!

 

Here is some information I have.

<>D8 connection tested - ( Tester set at DC voltage ) I get 12Vdc when I activate the heat bed in Matter Control.

<>11 Amp Rail - ( Tester set a DC voltage ) I get 12Vdc .

<>Thermistor line - Tested for Ohms while activating heat bed in matter control. - 0 OHMS was the reading. (It was tested at the new splice connection I made that was onto the old burnt wire which was replaced and plug back into the board at terminal T1 ). ( Maybe I'm Suppose to test it at the thermistor it self. dunno )
<> Kapton heater - Don't know where to preform the test.

 

Powered off and taken off the set screw terminals -I get ( 0 OHMS ) Across the two leads.

UPDATE<> I get zero between the wires, and with the wires off the terminals I tested the empty terminal and I got about 12 ohms still powered off..

 

Sounds like you have an open circuit on the heater wire. If the resistance across D8 is not around 1.5 ohms then you do.

Follow the wires coming off of D10 all the way to the heater looking for a spot where the wire is not connected.

 

I follow the D10 wires all the way to the extruder and I see no breaks in the line.

 

D10 is the heater bed

 

Mike you are correct the wire is cut inside the molex connector.

 

After closer inspection the black wire melted right at the connector .

 

What was your ship date? They should do the rma for that to remove the connector. Or you can cut out the connector and solder the wires back together if that's something you feel capable of doing.