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Very Frustrated. First layer, every layer, problems

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Gary Boyce, Jun 20, 2018.

  1. Gary Boyce

    Gary Boyce Member

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    I was having problems with the auto level causing parts of the bed to print high while other parts were almost gouging the bed in strange places all over the bed. I though maybe my bed got warped so I switched back to the original print bed (was using the v2 bed) and continued having this issue. I had some PIE sheet sitting around and put that on to give it a go and had the same results. I contacted support and after a ton of troubleshooting, they decided to have me send it in for repair and inspection. They said that something in the gantry was cracked and that the yellow PIE sheet was throwing of the IR sensors. When I got it back, the gantry was mis-aligned badly enough that the x axis limit switch wasn't being hit and one of the belts had more than an inch of lose play in it. I fixed the gantry and belt tension, did the bed calibration, z-offset, and fine tune offset and started test printing using files that came on the Robo (filament clips, and a spiral bed level test). I am sharing a link to every picture and video I have taken from the beginning. Please tell me what you folks think. This has been going on for weeks and I am ready to give up and burn this thing!
    Before sending off for repairs:
    https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1fV_lc7GxKHKSovDweyoi7wEYbxnI0Lps?usp=sharing

    After getting back from repair:
    https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/15AK5cRZCi_bYcbZYmKGuzsKFwBTolHuV?usp=sharing
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Geof likes this.
  3. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Also, level the bed mechanically as best as can be done before running the wizard.
     
  4. Gary Boyce

    Gary Boyce Member

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    I fixed the gantry and belt tension, did the bed calibration, z-offset, and fine tune offset ...
     
    #4 Gary Boyce, Jun 21, 2018
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 21, 2018
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Mechanical leveling is done with the adjustment screws that physically adjust the bed. It works best to get the bed mechanically as flat as possible before depending on autoleveling to fine tune things. That is what @WheresWaldo is getting at.

    Once you have manually leveled it then redo the Z offset wizard and fine-tuning wizard and see if the autoleveling can't get it right.
     
  6. Gary Boyce

    Gary Boyce Member

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    That's what the bed calibration is. It's the mechanical adjustments for the bed. You can do it manually or guided. I did guided. That takes the hot end to each of the 4 corners and you adjust the screws on the bottom of the bed so that there is a papers thickness between the bed and hot end at each of the four corners and check that the bed doesn't wobble when you press on it at the corners. I went through this several times to get it consistently leveled at each corner.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
     
  7. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I had issues with the update and the G36 and the ...older autoleveling routine implemented. What I did was remove the auto level from the starting script (I only use a G28 and manually level my bed- kick the rest of the start up script out).

    From there I put purple loctite on the adjuster threads (light strength so you can still adjust if needed but things dont work loose ont heir own)

    Then I run the bed level routine(home offset and bed level) only. I do NOT use the fine tune menu as it seems to do some crazy stuff like save off some information and cause issues on some peoples experiences.

    Once the bed is leveled and all autolevel routines are removed print away! You made need to make small adjustments with the 4 adjusters to get everything perfect, but onces set it stays pretty well good (I havent touched my bed level in a long while now)
     
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  8. Gary Boyce

    Gary Boyce Member

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    I'm sure this would get me to a working state but.... I am still in warranty and expect Robo to fix this issue so that the printer works as advertised. I came to forum in hopes that we might find a fix for the problem. I'm also not sure that we are having a leveling problem. From what I can tell, the hotend is close enough to the bed and extrudes plastic just fine until I go to print something. If I just heat the hot end to 195c and extrude plastic, it works fine. I have the bed as mechanically level as I can get it. It is a papers thickness across the bed from the hotend to the bed.
     
  9. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    @Jerry RoBo 3D

    Gary, totally understand. While I cant help you with that one, I'm here if you decide you'd rather go the other way.

    From what I can see it shows the symptoms of auto level not functioning correctly, do prints turn out ok?

    Side question: What in the world is all the blue tape and wiring about everywhere ? And why is there blue tape around the bed frame?
     
  10. Gary Boyce

    Gary Boyce Member

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    I'll try turning off the leveling and see how it does, but I do expect Robo to fix it if it's an auto level issue. The blue tape and wire was before I sent to repair. It was lights. The blue tape on the bed was for holding down a piece of PIE. Robo said that PIE sheet was what was messing up the auto level, so they gave me a new bed, but it still doesn't work.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
     
  11. Gary Boyce

    Gary Boyce Member

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    Not a leveling issue. I have now been through the bed calibration and leveling wizards several times. There is a papers thickness between the hot end and the bed all the way around the bed. The bed doesn't wobble when the corners are pressed and when I turn off auto level its prints consistently level but doesn't extrude the plastic. I tried another larger model (a box and lid) and instead of the extruder gear turning at a slow consistent speed, it moves in one small jump waits a while then moves in one small jump again, over and over.
    The extruder is not clogged. I can heat the extruder to 200C and using motor controls extrude 10 or 100 mm of plastic with out issue.
     
  12. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Your bed is to close to the nozzle. Lower it in the eeprom menu
     
  13. Gary Boyce

    Gary Boyce Member

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    I've always seen that the nozzle should be a standard printer papers thickness above the bed when leveling. How high above the bed when leveling should it be? I've always done it this way.... 2 years printing.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
     
  14. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    If the bed is to close its to close. You dont have to listen to what i suggest, just offering a solution based off what im reading. If the gear is skipping( the half forward then reverse is what that is) its because your to close and cant extrude.
     
  15. Gary Boyce

    Gary Boyce Member

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    Sorry Geof, I think my frustration was showing. I didn't mean to seem abrasive to your suggestions. I haven't changed anything in EEprom yet, but I did change the first layer height from .2 to .3. It does extrude plastic with that change. So, I am one step closer to a good print. Now that I am extruding, I am having another issue. It seems the bed is not flat. The rear of the bed has a high spot about 80mm long (left to right) the entire front of the bed is high, and the center, and left center is low. If I try to adjust for these low areas then other areas are hitting the hot end.
    Should I just get a borosilicate plate and put on the top of this bed? The bed I have looks like the original bed but it has a connector on it instead of the pogo pin pads.
     
  16. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @Gary Boyce a common misconception with glass is that it is flat. Borosilicate glass is made by floating molten glass on a liquid, so it is never truly flat. The auto-leveling is meant to take care of these less than perfectly flat beds, but the version Robo implemented could be better. I have asked them in the past to consider changing to unified bed leveling which is far superior to the linear bed leveling Robo chose to enable. You best bet is to get it as close as you can and then hope that auto-leveling will work for those few high spots.
     
  17. Gary Boyce

    Gary Boyce Member

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    Okay, good to know. I just turned back on the auto level and it seems to be doing better. Good enough I guess. I just don't understand what has changed. I was printing with no leveling, adhesion, or extrusion issues for like 8 months. Then all of the sudden, I can't print anything. The day before I started having all these problems I finished printing an articulated tablet holder for my surface pro, and it came out great, 1st layer to last layer.
     
  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    They changed how the Z offset was used at least once in firmware updates which meant you really had to go back and redo the leveling and fine tuning wizards. That was annoying.
     
  19. Gary Boyce

    Gary Boyce Member

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  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The autoleveling is certainly falling down on you.
     

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