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E3D v6 Information, Installation Guides, and Review

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Mike Kelly, Oct 23, 2014.

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  1. c. West

    c. West Member

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    You know what I forgot the collet. I'll bet that helps it The fit seems to only be about 1mm that I'm talking about so hopefully that collet will stick out the top of the hot end enough to snug up the whole thing.

    Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
     
    #341 c. West, Sep 30, 2015
  2. Thehead

    Thehead New Member

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    Does anyone have a schematic yet for the R1 Plus board, the schematic on the first page doesn't seem to fully match my board.

    Mostly What D9, D10 are for. I was assuming D9 was for the extruder heater because it's heavier duty since D10 is just two small pins.
     
    #342 Thehead, Oct 14, 2015
  3. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    It's accurate. D10 is the heater and D9 is the fan. Are you sure you're looking at the right location?
     
    #343 Mike Kelly, Oct 14, 2015
  4. Thehead

    Thehead New Member

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    D9 is definitely the Heater and D10 is the print cooler for the R1 Plus. I had them wired up as suggested on the first page and when I turned the fan on, the heater turned on and vice versa. robo board.jpg
     
    #344 Thehead, Oct 15, 2015
  5. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    whoa. that's news to me. Can you take some more pictures of the board?
     
    #345 Mike Kelly, Oct 15, 2015
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That is not a standard RAMPS 1.4
    Well, at least non-standard connectors. The LEDS look like they are correctly positioned.
     
    #346 mark tomlinson, Oct 15, 2015
  7. Thehead

    Thehead New Member

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    1015151117_resized.jpg 1015151117a_resized.jpg 1015151118_resized.jpg It's a bit messy as I'm still working on it, but the biggest differences that I can tell is that they got rid of unnecessary pins (like the ones by where the limit switches plug in. Also, the power has two sections, one for 11A (bottom) and one for 5A (top) and is -,+,-,+ from top to bottom (in orientation to my picture below). As well as D9 and D10 functions switched.
    1015151117_resized.jpg 1015151117a_resized.jpg
     
    #347 Thehead, Oct 15, 2015
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  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yea, that is not a standard connector set :)
     
    #348 mark tomlinson, Oct 15, 2015
  9. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Well that's certainly interesting. Have a lot of questions but I'll ask jerry.

    You're right. the heater is now on D9 and the fan is D10. Apparently even though Pin 10 still controls the Heater it's labeled D9.
     
    #349 Mike Kelly, Oct 15, 2015
  10. Thehead

    Thehead New Member

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    So I'm assuming Robo hasn't released their schematic for the R1 plus board then?
     
    #350 Thehead, Oct 15, 2015
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    They never did for the first one that I am aware of.

    Maybe it was in the BOM (but that was not directly findable either).
     
    #351 mark tomlinson, Oct 15, 2015
  12. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Never needed to, there are diagrams for the Ramps in a Reprap setup everywhere.
     
    #352 daniel871, Oct 15, 2015
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Even for the RAMPS there were different configurations for the outputs for different versions of firmware. D8, D9 and D10 were Originally set as follows (for the generic RAMPS):
    D10 -> extruder 1
    D9 -> extruder 2
    D8 -> heated bed

    There is this note on the wiki: "Note that Tesla & Tonok firmware use D9 and Sprinter, Marlin, and Johnny/Tonok use D10 for the extruder hot end."

    So, ehhh... some consistency. That BOARD is different though at least the way the output connectors are done.
     
    #353 mark tomlinson, Oct 15, 2015
  14. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Robo doesn't really release information. It's all community driven since like 2013.

    I guess they designed a modified ramps board but didn't feel like mentioning it to anyone.

    The main differences:

    D10 and D9 are flipped. Though for pinout/firmware purposes it's the same.

    E1 is now a second Z driver. They redid the tracing so they share common pins. No firmware mods required.

    Added 2 12v pins outs for LED's or fans
     
    #354 Mike Kelly, Oct 15, 2015
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  15. Thehead

    Thehead New Member

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    ugh, so now I'm having issues after updating the firmware as suggested. I'm getting very upset that the R1 plus is so difficult to deal with. my Z - axis will not move down now.
     
    #355 Thehead, Oct 17, 2015
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    One of you Z switches is stuck or mis-positioned.
    Check it out.

    That has to be the case since that is what tells the Z it is 'home' (or as low as it can go).
    So it goes up.
     
    #356 mark tomlinson, Oct 17, 2015
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  17. Thehead

    Thehead New Member

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    I'll check that, thanks!
     
    #357 Thehead, Oct 17, 2015
  18. Thehead

    Thehead New Member

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    yep, that was it, now the other issue after updating the firmware is that my stepper motors are super choppy in their movement and most of the time it seems like they don't have enough power. The pots were not adjusted and worked fine before so I doubt that is the issue.
     
    #358 Thehead, Oct 17, 2015
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    :)

    You have (I think) eliminated everything else.
    It is probably the pots that need tweaking.
    Those are the symptoms of mis-adjusted POTS.
     
    #359 mark tomlinson, Oct 17, 2015
  20. Thehead

    Thehead New Member

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    So. I was sent the robo r1 plus firmware so I could try and go back to stock to figure things out one at a time, however matter control is not uploading it and I haven't found any other way to upload a hex file or even edit it.

    What I ended up doing was opening up arduino with the firmware for the lead screw update file and the one for the e3d head and just swapping the values regarding z movement and steps into the e3d firmware (which I imagine I probably should've checked in the first place and that fixed it, however I have one of the controllers that I can't seem to get to adjust properly so I just stuck that in the spot for the 2nd extruder and everything seems to be fine now, although the z-axis stepper motors are a bit slow, but at least they finally work. It seems like I have a bit more research to do. I'm a fairly young mechanical engineer and electronics aren't my strength, but this'll give me a good chance to learn more it seems.

    The scales are off quite a bit, the Y-axis is stretched to about double what it should be so there must be quite a bit different. This is so frustrating.

    Edit: I think I got everything sorted, I watched every Tom's video on youtube which was very educational and helped me with tuning my configuration.h file. I just had to piece together what I needed from the leadscrew upgrade thread and this thread's firmware suggestions.

    also, I found this link :
    which allowed me to set my potentiometers along with using the Pololu website for the math.
     
    #360 Thehead, Oct 18, 2015
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2015
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