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E3D v6 Information, Installation Guides, and Review

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Mike Kelly, Oct 23, 2014.

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  1. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Would be guessing on my part as well :)
    However I thought this was already resolved.
     
  2. Snazzy Labs

    Snazzy Labs New Member

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    Nope, that was it. Thank you!

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G928A using Tapatalk
     
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  3. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    I don't have a quick release model for the E3Dv6 but can throw one together probably. I think the aluminum one should work but people say it's a bit loose as well. I have no personal experience in the subject
     
  4. mikejsmith1985

    mikejsmith1985 New Member

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    I just happened to finish uploading mine, I've been using it successfully most of the week. It isn't perfect but, its been plenty good enough for me. You're welcome to tweak it or use it as is.
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1192896
     
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  5. Akrites

    Akrites New Member

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    Big shout out to Jerry from Team Robo for the help. Just finished setting up the E3D v6 on my R1 plus and it was quite easy after Jerry sent the board layout and current firmware to be modified. As far as the extruder not being tight, make sure you insert the black fitting in the top of the E3D heatsink. This will lead to it not fitting correctly (found out the hard way). Finally, I adjusted the Z axis using
    M565 Z-1.0 in the G Code startup in Matter Control. This took some fine tuning by printing a couple configuration cubes. Attached board layout and the current R1 Plus firmware. Hope this helps! Thanks to all of you for the thread! Robo3D R1 +Plus Board.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

  6. mikejsmith1985

    mikejsmith1985 New Member

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    Did you get the Bowden model? Direct drive doesn't have the black part unless you're talking about the clip that holds the PTFE tube in in which case I'm not sure how that would help secure the hotend to the extruder/ x-carriage. I'm curious if there is a difference between our models. Mine had a plastic molded quick release plate how about yours?
     
  7. Akrites

    Akrites New Member

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    Nope direct model. The black clip is for securing the PTFE tube. I didn't know what it was at first and didn't put it in. Mine has the plastic quick release plate and without the black PTFE clip, the extruded had some wobble.
     
  8. mikejsmith1985

    mikejsmith1985 New Member

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    Interesting that didn't help me at all, but I do see how that could act as a shim between the extruder and the top of the hotend as I think about it. Glad yours is working though! Congrats!!!
     
  9. Daniel J McGoldrick

    Daniel J McGoldrick New Member

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    My experiences with this are that I bought this upgrade so I could print in polycarbonate :) . The kit was a bit big on the screw size to the fan for the fan shroud and the wires were not "quite" long enough to run all the way to the board so the wiring methods and the bundling near the carriage could be improved with precise connectors and management of that... The pre-wired "stud thermistor" in the bundle does not match the performance max of the extruder (260 vs needed 290+) so if you use it Polycarbonate, it absolutely requires the E3d thermistor with the blue insulation methods that are a bit tricky you have to be gentle with it. I also had a hard time aligning the screws in the right place to lock the extruder into the carriage. Then I downloaded the third listed firmware version instead of the second so had to upload the firmware twice using the second one instead of the third so there is confusion about the names and the firmware (for me at least). I wish the versions had better names :). After all of that - mahalo! THIS IS AN AWESOME REALLY WELL ENGINEERED EXTRUDER UPGRADE!!! I LOVE IT! THANKS TO ALL :)Thanks Mike Kelly...
     
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  10. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    Glad you like it. When I installed mine, I just spliced into the existing wires rather than even trying to route the whole way back.

    The stud thermistor that comes in the kits these days is rated to 285. The older one was 260. The stock thermistor starts to loose accuracy over about 290, so it's a tad better, but not an option for the customers who have trouble installing the stock. That whole explanation is is why we started offering the stud, but also leave the standard thermocouple in the kit.

    Really, if you want to run at 290+ on a regular basis, you may want to consider a thermocouple, which will require adding a thermocouple adapter board as well.
     
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  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes.!.
    The adapter is cheap and easy to install.
     
  12. Jimmy Husain

    Jimmy Husain Member

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    Question : I did not read the entire thread but just wanting to know, do I need to play with my firmware if I were to upgrade to this from my Hex hot end?

    Am running the Robo Plus.
     
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Shame. Read threads YOU MUST :)

    Seriously though if you want the E3D to have the exact same functionality as the Hexagon then you need edit nothing if you use the old thermistor (rather than the one that comes with the E3D) or my favorite, the metal stud thermistor (same thermistor type as stock).

    If you want to take full advantage of the E3D then there are changes you will want to make. If you use the thermistor that came with the E3D then you have to edit the firmware for that.
     
  14. Jimmy Husain

    Jimmy Husain Member

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    ;) I'll be in touch if I need anything. Anyhow, time to get busy.

    volcano1.jpg
     
  15. Jimmy Husain

    Jimmy Husain Member

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  16. Jimmy Husain

    Jimmy Husain Member

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    Okay got it all installed. Using the steps listed in the pages here for the firmware but not my temperature is saying ERR: MINTEMP

    Advice?

    EDIT : Found the problem.
     
    #396 Jimmy Husain, Jan 7, 2016
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2016
  17. Jimmy Husain

    Jimmy Husain Member

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    Finally printing but am yet to do a proper calibration. The E3Dv6 with the Volcano is super! Never seen the extruder motor works reallllyyy fast.

    volcano3.jpg

    Just to share to show the differences. 0.65 vs 0.25. Those thick layers.
    0.25 is fully calibrated.
    0.65 is yet too.
     
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  18. Jimmy Husain

    Jimmy Husain Member

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    Posting to share my experience installing the E3D v6 on my Robo Plus.

    Reading the 1st post really helps. Knowing how to remove the Hexagon extruder will helps alot. I removed my extruder few times before prior to this. Then just look for videos on how to assemble the E3D v6 on youtube. It is not that difficult, just need patience. My only problem is that I am using the Volcano so there is actually no video on how to assemble it on youtube BUT actually it is all the same.

    The volcano is using a bigger heater. That is all it.

    I did not drill my stock Greg's Wade Extruder. I printed & used this instead http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:673312 This thing fits well. But still need to drill it out to make way for the PTFE tube. Then again this thing works!

    Then I printed & used this too http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1192896

    IMG_20160108_053939.jpg

    But the fan mount don't fit well. My 20 mm fan can't be used witht that. Too low. Even the stock fan is touching the extruder fan. So I will try to look & print a better one soon. So far I am printing just few models with the new extruder. The Volcano really eats filaments for breakfast!

    If you are happy with your extruder, just stick with the Hexagon. But if you want to try something new? This is a really good mod IMHO.
     
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  19. dguisinger

    dguisinger New Member

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    I wish there was a better "sticky" post that has up-to-date information without going through everyone's comments seeking help on x,y, or z and sometimes even troubleshooting unrelated problems. 400 comments later its hard to know exactly where everything stands, especially for us Plus users....

    So let me see if I can summarize what I think I've gleaned from reading the last 20 pages...

    1) I need a modified quick release plate: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1192896
    2) I either need to modify my firmware or use this stud from Printed Solid: http://printedsolid.com/collections/accessories-and-upgrades/products/screw-on-m3-stud-thermistor
    2a) If I modify the firmware, the R1 Plus is using the Lead Screw Upgrade firmware? (Please verify)
    2b) This stud thermistor says the screw is 4mm long and the heat block has a 3mm hole but makes it sound like filing it is optional. If its not required, does it interfere with anything to have that extra mm sticking out?
    3) The controller board has changed from the initial post, but the fan, heater, and thermistor can all be wired into the whole harness, so does this even matter?

    Am I missing anything?
     
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  20. Jimmy Husain

    Jimmy Husain Member

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    @dguisinger

    I can answer some of your questions. Here is what I can.

    1) Yes I think you need that. I am using the Robo Plus & I did not used the stock metal plate. I printed that before I start my mods & it fits good.

    2a) I am not sure about that which firmware for your Robo. For me? I got Z Banding before & got a replacement from Robo. They send me the Lead Screw Upgrade kit. I used the firmware linked in the1st post & there is another firmware linked in another post. BOTH of them did not work with my Robo. Hence I need that firmware where it says for the lead screw kit. Yes, that is the right firmware for my Robo.
     
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