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E3D v6 Information, Installation Guides, and Review

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Mike Kelly, Oct 23, 2014.

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  1. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Heater core and heater block. Just to be clear :)
    The heaterblock means a larger melt zone. You could use a larger heater core in any hotend, but the larger melt zone is the key there.
     
  2. sperman

    sperman New Member

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    I agree. Nothing like reading 20 pages only to discover much of the info doesn't directly apply to the latest model. Still lots of good info in this thread, and you summary matches pretty well with what I took away from all the reading.
     
  3. Justin Riera

    Justin Riera Member

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    I forgot to print the fan duct before installing it so can i just use a desk fan temporarily to print it?
     
  4. Justin Riera

    Justin Riera Member

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    Also I use the First firmware link for the R1 plus right?
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    R1+ is the one labeled "Leadscrew Upgrade" here:

    http://guide.robo3d.com/Wiki/ROBO_3D_Firmware_Release_Notes

    This is why the warning about R1+ not just updating firmware without contacting support.
    It is a bit of a confusing mess.
     
  7. afat08

    afat08 Member

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    Holy Schnikeys that was a lot of information taken in from this thread!! I have the latest Robo 3d R1+, looking at my board, it's different then any of the pictured ones throughout this thread (even the updated pics) but I manually went through mine and I know what everything necessary to this upgrade is. Just from doing a dry run on installing the v6, I don't think I'll have any issues with wire length, and everything looks like plug and play with crimping/heatshrinking a couple wires/connectors. I think before I install mine, I will be ordering the stud thermistor from printed solid so I will not have to update any firmware. In the meantime, I will also have to print a thicker plate to hold the hot end in place because my stock plate is too thin and has some play to it, although I think if everything were screwed tight it wouldn't wobble but also wouldn't be secure.

    Any other things you guys think I missed??

    When researching information, it is VERY difficult finding/distinguishing information for the later models vs newer!! I vote start a go fund me account for the mods to get updated machines and help us noobs with information!! haha
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    They changed the RAMPS boards in the R1+. It is still electrically the same and is a RAMPS 1.4, but the connections are a little different.

    The upgrade is not a technical challenge since you re-land the new wires right where the old ones were :)
    Take your time and it will not be a problem. The differences with most of this thread is the quick-release bar they added to the R1+. If you sort out how to remove that then the hotend drops right out.
     
  9. Justin Riera

    Justin Riera Member

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    Which file do i flash? nothing says marlin auto level.
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You flash the entire set after it compiles. The one you load into the Arduino GUI is ROBO3DR1PLUSV1.ino

    Load that, compile it and then upload to the Arduino.
     
  11. woferry

    woferry Member

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    So does the non-bowden version of the E3D v6 not come with ANY PTFE tubing at all?!?! After breaking the nozzle off my hexagon during a clog repair I ordered the v6 from Amazon, and once I realized how long that was going to take to arrive (mainly because it was sent USPS to my work address, and they sit on post office mail for a few days, other items in the order went UPS and Fedex but the thing I really wanted ASAP took the longest to receive :p ) I ordered a v6 lite from another company. The v6 lite showed up first as expected and I got the printer back up and running that evening. The v6 lite came with everything needed to assemble it and use it in my R1plus, after drilling the larger hole in the X carriage for the PTFE tube, and since this wasn't a planned upgrade I didn't have the thicker quick-release plate ready, but I shimmed the old plate with several strips of blue-tape to get the hotend secure enough to do prints and printed the plate (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1192896) first thing.

    Well last night the v6 showed up and I went to assemble it. They left out the hex driver that came with the v6 lite, of course I didn't need two so that wasn't a big deal. But they also left out any PTFE tubing, the lite at least came with the few inches necessary to work with the Robo, but the non-lite didn't come with anything at all even though their assembly instructions clearly note that this part is not optional.

    Is that really the case? Looking at E3D's assembly page for the v6 they don't state that any PTFE comes in the non-bowden version, but I find that so extremely hard to believe that it would come without a crucial part, especially when the cheaper v6 lite did come with it. While my long-term intent for the v6 lite is as a substitute should the v6 ever fail/break, I'd rather not have to swap the tube between the units and just have one for each. So I'm trying to determine whether I should be contacting the seller to get a part that should have been included in the kit but wasn't, or if I need to obtain my own piece of PTFE. And if it's the latter, any pointers on where I can get it from? I only need a few inches of course, paying the $10 for the 800mm for a bowden extruder seems like such a waste since my printer doesn't work that way. Thanks in advance.
     
  12. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Who'd you buy from? They might have just missed it
     
  13. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    A very short piece comes with the genuine non-bowden E3Dv6.
     
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  14. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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  15. woferry

    woferry Member

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  16. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    That says MatterHackers? I'd just email them
     
  17. afat08

    afat08 Member

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  18. Snazzy Labs

    Snazzy Labs New Member

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    Hey guys. I have the R1+ v2 and am doing the upgrade to the e3d v6. I got the new mounting plate printed out and it fits great! A little confused on the firmware side. If I am using the thermistor that came with the e3d v6, do I need to change the firmware in any way? Seen the firmware posted for older Robo models but am unsure if there is the need to upgrade if I have the newest printer with the latest official firmware. Thanks!
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes, you need to change the thermistor type to match the E3D (Semitec I believe).
    I always suggest switching to the Metal Stud thermistor at the same time you do the hotend and it is the same thermistor type as stock.

    stock:

    #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1 //robo


    E3D:

    #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5
     
  20. cdsl810

    cdsl810 Member

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    I just upgraded to the E3D. I flashed the firmware (leadscrew version) on the R1+ and now the X axis crashes, the Z axis is exactly 10x steps off--meaning I get 1mm instead of 0.1mm and 10mm instead of 1mm.

    It worked flawlessly before changing the hotend while using the stock V1 firmware for the R1+. Are one of those firmware listings the "original" for the R1+? I was under the impression that it was necessary to upgrade the firmware to take full advantage of the E3Ds capabilities.
     
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