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E3D v6 is out - lots of improvements

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Denys Dmytriyenko, May 23, 2014.

  1. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    It doesn't matter which side it's on. Wherever it fits without interfering with anything will work fine.
     
  2. collin

    collin New Member

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    how did this work out for you? I just away for my new hotend
     
  3. Robb

    Robb Member

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    Collin - it worked great! The new fan mount is needed so print that off before you start.

    I have 98 extra m3 x 20mm screws if anyone needs them just PM me.

    Follow these steps and you should be good.

    I have been printing in all kinds of filaments now. Wood, ninjaflex, nylon.... Great stuff!!!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  4. collin

    collin New Member

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    can you post the link to the video showing how to mount?
     
  5. collin

    collin New Member

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    would you mind sending me a few of em?
     
  6. Voyager1

    Voyager1 New Member

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    Hi guys - I'm baaaaack! So after a delay waiting for a new extruder motor, I now have that installed and the E3D extruder. The motor is working fine, but the extruder keeps blocking using PLA (I haven't dared to try ABS yet!). I've heated the extruder up to 220 degrees, and for a little while it oozes out of the extruder. Then, after a few minutes while I set up the file I want to print, no filament flow. Trying a 10mm extrusion produces nothing.
    There is no grinding of the filament at the hobbed bolt, but when I try to pull the filament out it is really hard to do (I needed pliers even with the extruder heated to 220) and the filament looked very patchy - see photo attached. The only thing I didn't do when I installed the E3d was use the PTFE tube - that was my problem with the last hot end. I read somewhere on these forums that it wasn't really necessary.
    Could that be the problem? If not, what have I done wrong???
     

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  7. collin

    collin New Member

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    Bro you gotta get that PTFE that's what makes sure there is no friction until you get to the hot part. Your filitmet is just getting stuck to the metal walls of the hot end that is only ment for 3mm filiment. The PTFE is the adapter dude. Use it and all your probs will go up in smoke. Note: clean out your hot end b4 reinstalling
     
  8. Voyager1

    Voyager1 New Member

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    Ok - have I completely stuffed my hot end? Not sure what you mean about cleaning it out


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  9. collin

    collin New Member

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    That's what it sounds like man. Just make sure there is no clog in it. In unmount it from the printer heat it up and run a guitar string through it. And clear out the excess debris. They could cause you problems in the future.
     
  10. Voyager1

    Voyager1 New Member

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    Went to ebay to buy some guitar string - no musical bone in my body - just realised they come in different sizes :confused: Any advice on which size for a 1.75mm hot end?
     
  11. Voyager1

    Voyager1 New Member

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  12. 1d1

    1d1 Active Member

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    Get a high "E" string. I went to a local guitar shop and just asked for some scrap - they had ones that had been replaced in their repair shop. Make sure you are using the hot end fan to keep the heat sink cool enough. "Heat creep" can occasionally cause a blockage when the filament gets too hot before reaching the nozzle. With an e3d you don't need the PTFE and it can be fully disassembled to be cleaned out. So, you haven't cooked it!
     
  13. Voyager1

    Voyager1 New Member

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    I'm using the fan that came with the e3d and is attached to the heat sink. I think it's working but will double check that too.
    Thanks for the guitar string advice. Will get online to find out if there's a guitar shop near here...


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  14. John Rygg

    John Rygg Active Member

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    The PFTE tube is necessary, E3D left that out of the instructions and are putting it in now.
    I have jams every print without it , and now that I have it added back in I can print again.

    • the jams happen in the heat break tube and not the nozzle .
    • take your hot end out of the carriage
    • heat up
    • take off heat sink
    • take off nozzle
    • so now you should just have the heat break tube and the heater block
    • screw the heat break tube farther down in to the heater block and turn up the heat to 300 and let sit.
    • you should be able to push out the clog.
    • don't burn your fingers :)

    I had to do this multiple times until I figured out the PFTE tube deal.
    I messed up the mount on my heatsink taking it on and off so many times, now it wobbles. E3D has credited me for a new heatsink since they left out the PFTE tube instructions.

    hope that helps
     
  15. collin

    collin New Member

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    Let us know how it all works out.
     
  16. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    John, that's interesting. I would have considered the PTFE tube to be optional, but strongly recommended since it was added primarily as an aid for flexible filaments. Thanks for posting your personal experience using both.
     
  17. Invertmast

    Invertmast Active Member

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    anyone know the dimensions (or part number) for the tube and the little black push fit connector for the v6? the black push fit broke on mine clearing a jam out today..
     
  18. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    I have some short lengths of tubes and I can send you one for the postage, but I'm out of their connectors. Pretty sure you can go into a hardware or fastener store and pick out one that works. OD on that tube is 4mm.
     
  19. Voyager1

    Voyager1 New Member

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    Thanks everyone for your help with my PTFE tube issue. I now have pulled everything apart, cleaned out the E3Dv6 and got it all up and running again. I managed to print this fan bracket: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:226998 and then reinstate the original fan.

    HOWEVER....when I started to print the base of the quadcopter I've been trying to get printed for months (I have 3 arms so far), the perimeter went down beautifully and the infill started well...then stopped. I've attached a photo of the bottom print layer after I killed the print. I'm using all the default settings for speed etc, but have turned the temp of the hot end up to 230. Any thoughts on why this is happening?
     

    Attached Files:

  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Stock hobbed bolt? When you open the filament feed are there filament shavings around the hobb?
     

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