1. Got a question or need help troubleshooting? Post to the troubleshooting forum or Search the forums!

E3D v6 is out - lots of improvements

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Denys Dmytriyenko, May 23, 2014.

  1. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2013
    Messages:
    6,967
    Likes Received:
    2,276
    Très bien!
     
  2. Vkial

    Vkial Member

    Joined:
    May 7, 2014
    Messages:
    52
    Likes Received:
    4
    Merci beaucoup :)
     
  3. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2013
    Messages:
    6,967
    Likes Received:
    2,276
    Je vais voyager à Paris en août. Je dois améliorer mon parler français sans l'aide de google :)
     
  4. Vkial

    Vkial Member

    Joined:
    May 7, 2014
    Messages:
    52
    Likes Received:
    4
    Very good but the second part is : "Je dois améliorer mon français sans l'aide de google"

    If you want some help i can do that :)
     
  5. John Rygg

    John Rygg Active Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    111
    Likes Received:
    31
    Hello All, got my v6 installed , I got it because after 4 months of care free printing with the v5 I all of a sudden was getting horrible jams every other print. so much so that I had to disassemble the print head to clear the jam. in the process I broke off the heat break tube in the print head.

    so I figured I would solve all my problems by just getting a completely new v6.
    but now my v6 is starting to jam after just a couple prints. at first I thought it was just cheap filament
    causing the jam, but I have tried 3 different filaments with the same results.
    the nozzle is not clogging the jam seems to be in the heat break tube.
    any ideas ? how do you season with oil?

    I may try the oil on a sponge before to lube the filament.

    not sure why all of a sudden this started with the v5 and now the v6...

    thanks John
     
  6. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2013
    Messages:
    6,967
    Likes Received:
    2,276
    You season it the same way you'd season a cast iron skillet. You can keep it oiled up with a oil sponge.
     
  7. scotta

    scotta Active Member

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2013
    Messages:
    187
    Likes Received:
    96
    This works for me. With the oiler I've not had a jam for a couple of months. I also increased the spring tension on feeder by adding a couple of extra nuts (I.e shortens the spring distance)
     
  8. Vkial

    Vkial Member

    Joined:
    May 7, 2014
    Messages:
    52
    Likes Received:
    4
    I do it too the season tricks this morning because yesterday my new e3dv6 has jammed in the heat break.

    Today it was about 4h print with no jam.

    So far so good :)
     
  9. John Rygg

    John Rygg Active Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    111
    Likes Received:
    31
    Well I jinxed myself. had another Jam this morning.

    Still getting jammed at the heat break tube. I can take everything off heatsink and nozzle and see the filament sticking out of the cold end of the heatbreak tube.
    I have to heat the heater block up to 300 c without the nozzle on to get the filament out, and then it takes quite a bit of force to get it out.
    It seems like it needs a separate cooling fan for the gap between the fins and the heater block.
    like this web page is suggesting
    http://blog.reprap-india.com/2014/04/03/how-to-reducing-pla-jams-in-all-metal-hotends-e3d-v5-all-metal-hotend/
    not sure if the oil is helping , but now things are a bit messy [​IMG]
     
  10. John Rygg

    John Rygg Active Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    111
    Likes Received:
    31
    Finally got a successful print that ran 9 hours.
    lowered printing temp from 195 to 185
    added oiler ( had jam after this also)
    moved the fan down to cool the heat break (had jam after this also)
    added the PTFE tube inside the heat sink ( I did not use it because I thought it was just for Bowden) Not sure it this is needed or not. it is not in the instructions for direct drive extruders.
     
  11. Savan12986

    Savan12986 Member

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2014
    Messages:
    45
    Likes Received:
    15
    As I understand it, even on direct drive the ptfe tube inside the cold end is part of the design
     
  12. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2013
    Messages:
    6,967
    Likes Received:
    2,276
    The PTFE will only help. Were it me I would drill out the gregs wade to 4.2 and run the PTFE all the way below the hobbed bolt so you have as seamless of 2mm section as possible.
     
    2 people like this.
  13. Invertmast

    Invertmast Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2014
    Messages:
    109
    Likes Received:
    58
    Has anyone modeled a Parts fan cooling duct yet?

    I printed this one up last night:
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:254004

    But it Just barely doesn't fit. The duct drops a bit to low and the interior wall closest to the fan needs to continue a bit closer to the fan to clear the heater block on the v6.
     
    3 people like this.
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338

    Ugh, that is the one I used on the previous version E3D. I have not yet seen one for the V6 specifically.
     
  15. Invertmast

    Invertmast Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2014
    Messages:
    109
    Likes Received:
    58
    Yea i figured i would print that one out last night to see if it would fit before going through and CADing one from scratch. I may be able to take a heat gun to it and make it work.
     
  16. Voyager1

    Voyager1 New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2014
    Messages:
    47
    Likes Received:
    2
    I've just installed my E3D v6 - but it looks a bit off! It doesn't look straight - that is, perpendicular to the bed. Photos attached to illustrate what I mean. The way the fan attaches to the heat sink duct that came with the hot end means it won't go any higher cos it hits the carriage above. Have I done something wrong??
    photo 2.JPG photo 1.JPG
     
  17. Voyager1

    Voyager1 New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2014
    Messages:
    47
    Likes Received:
    2
    One other thing - on the first run heating up the hot end, I noticed the heat sink fan seems to be intermittent. Going on and off. If I give the fan a flick with my finger, it gets going but then slows down again later. Is that normal??
     
  18. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    1,605
    Likes Received:
    1,003
    Looks like something is off in your install. There are two screws that go into the groove in the j head mount in the heatsink. It looks like you might have it off a little so only one is really in the groove. I'd pull those two screws out. Straighten it up again and try again.

    Two possibilities on the fan: The more likely explanation is that there is either something wrong with the fan or the connection. Check all connections. If that doesn't work, try swapping it out with another fan or just swapping connections with another fan and see if the new fan work.
    The other less likely possibility is that you have lines in your firmware that tell the fan to turn off when the hot end temp drops below 50. I don't think Robo has adopted this code, but I know it is common on other machines and some people on this forum have also added it into their firmware.
     
  19. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2013
    Messages:
    6,967
    Likes Received:
    2,276
    Looks like you're hitting the stock fan carriage. Did you remove that?
     
  20. Voyager1

    Voyager1 New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2014
    Messages:
    47
    Likes Received:
    2
    Yes I had already taken the fan and mount off. So now I've taken the screws out and managed to get the hot end straight. But the fan duct that came with it is now slightly offline. Still connected tho.
    Looks like the hot end fan and duct is hitting the carriage itself on the side.
    One thought - is the hot end fan meant to be on the right hand side of the hot end? Cos that's where I out it based on other photos online.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     

Share This Page