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Unresolved Hardware error

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by capecodcharlie, Aug 16, 2016.

  1. capecodcharlie

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  2. capecodcharlie

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    O K , I'm try to give him a call ,, so the 8mm fit the rod , what does that make this ?? Will the hexagon extruder that RoBo has for sale fit this ?! Does this model have a self leveling bed , Thanks
     
  3. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Yep do not work for robo. Just help out on the forum.
     
  4. capecodcharlie

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    Not sure what you mean by all that , can you elaborate, don't mean to be stupid , do you mean that I should know what machine I'm working with to do an upgrade ,, Thanks
     
  5. capecodcharlie

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    What are the main difference between a standard and a plus ??. Thanks
     
  6. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Knowing what machine you have is valuable.information. the difference between an r1 and r1+ is the leds are white in an r1+, a different autolevel bracket, lead screws (no couplers) and a ribbon cable that powers the heater and thermistor in the bed, and a customized ramps board. That is the main differences in an r1+ from the factory

    There is no stupid questions, dont hesitate to ask.

    edit: Forgot about the quick release for the extruder on the R1+
     
    #26 Geof, Aug 19, 2016
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2016
  7. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Actually some R1's have this. Mine does.

    Two other minor changes to the R1+ are they added a great quick release plate for the x carriage that makes taking the hotend on and off way easier. You can easily print one from Thingiverse and put it on yours. They also had some sort of filament guide added to the top that, well, does the same thing as the oiler I have printed and slides in the top slot. I think the changed the hotend slightly where they got rid of the black boot and maybe something else. If there was ever a place Robo has failed is in naming their revisions and documenting changes in a nice wiki or something. Does make it a headache when folks are trying to figure out what version of printer they actually have.
     
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  8. capecodcharlie

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    Well I want to thank you all for your advise, I'm going to look at more about the Z ribbing , adding that plate , and hopefully that new extruder will get here soon to see what's going on , IVE done a lot of UTUBE surfing and I see printed solid has a lot of items people are going to , any likes or dislikes about there items ,
    One other thing I was playing with was the heat bed travel , I found that the gray cable got jammed when in the back position , I opened it up and with some wire ties and an elastic band was able to stop it for the time being , I also found when I opened it , the last owner unplugged the fan ( or it pulled off when they opened it ) I was a where of this from a few videos but do not know exactly where it goes , are there wire diagrams out there I can get to, , any other cures for the heat table cable ?.. I have to say thanks again and I'm sure I'll have more questions , Thanks to you all it makes this easier to deal with , it's very interesting to say the least ,
     
  9. capecodcharlie

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    That's good to know , Thanks
     
  10. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Below you can see a rough diagram. I circled the pins in blue. I put a red dot where the red wire goes and a black dot where the black goes. I hate the short cable. Always comes off. I now open the bottom lid from the opposite side from the RAMPS board and hinge it out. Seems to help keep the fan plugged in when doing quick checks. Also a good mod some day is to lengthen that cord or to attach the fan to the RAMPS and forget about it.

    RAMPS FAN.PNG
     
  11. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    That's the model I was thinking of Mark. Thanks for posting. My thingiverse search took too long.

    Also your point about blowing the air across the board is a good one. I think it is more affective to have the air blow across than just down on it. Directs the heat away from the drivers more...in theory.
     
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  12. capecodcharlie

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    O K , I'll give that a try later today , Thanks
     
  13. capecodcharlie

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    I see your point on putting a fan in the side ,,another good option , Thanks
     
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  14. capecodcharlie

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    Say if anyone talks to Harry ?? Tell him it's impossible to call him or get to Robo , it just keeps running you around , IVE called them four times today , twice yesterday, and all it does is say press this number then the guy who co founded Robo comes back on and it starts again , not exactly the way to run a business,
     
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  15. capecodcharlie

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    This bracket mount would stop one from unpluging the fan every time you open it ,,great ideas , Thanks
     
  16. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Man... @Harry hasn't been on since July 25th. If I tag him 3 times will he appear? @Harry @Harry @Harry ... Sorry...no genie lamp to rub
     
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  17. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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  18. capecodcharlie

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    Love that , @Harry , @ HARRY , @ Harry , maybe if everyone does it TOGEATHER, LOL
     
  19. capecodcharlie

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    Alright this problem is solved , how do I change the heading , to solved , it was the thermistor as all of you figured , Thanks , I found a guy that was in driving distance ( about 40 odd miles away , ) who had one and would sell it and explain how to change it out , I did that And the extruder started working fine , Now I have about bunch of other things that are happening , ( I did try changing the Z from .09 to .08 , then 1.0 then 1,2 , so on not much help , ) I did print a number of small items and found that the extruder was BASICLY hard against the heat bed , when I watched it calibrate a few times it was pressing down on the left side and pushing hard on the bed , middle was a bit lighter and the right seemed about right ,I looked to the web and found a number of answers , about the only thing that did work was to stop it just after it calibrated the bed , then turn the screw about a full turn and then let it start and run , it did a few pretty good , I also did the calibartion circle and on one side it was fine the other the left side was about .04 mm less , I then went to a differance piece to print and it started the calibration about 2 - 3. " off the bed and then started to print in the air , Any body got a place for me to start to calibrate this beast , There are other things I found but they all might be related , any help would be great Thanks
     
  20. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    If you are doing the ABL probing and it is stair climbing instead of coming down to the bed at each point, then one side is not sitting back down on the z endstop correctly after one of your probe points. Couple things to check is if your x axis end caps are sticking for some reason. Make sure the endstop brackets on each side of the z are secured tight and that they are sitting flush against the bottom of the end brackets.
     

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