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Hexagon Hot End?

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Red Submarine, Mar 20, 2014.

  1. 1d1

    1d1 Active Member

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    @Elvira, the prints I have been doing with Bridge nylon range from 1 to 8 hours with layer levels of .45. I shall try t-glase today and see if it is working as well. While I could increase my resolution for longer print times, I think that 8 hours gives a pretty good indication of eventual success as long as some other variable doesn't interfere. Can't you order from Taulman directly?
     
  2. Mobile Chernobyl

    Mobile Chernobyl New Member

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    Does anyone know the thread size on the top of the hexagon hotend, after you remove the brass plug - for bowden feed? It looks small, and based on the fitting I'm guessing straight metric thread? Possibly M6 like everything else on hot ends these days? (That would simplify machining of the cold end I'd imagine!)

    I just ordered one and I'd like to order the accompanying push-to-connect fittings so I'm otherwise ready for direct compatible bowden-feed printing when it arrives

    Thanks!
     
  3. 1d1

    1d1 Active Member

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    Send an email to Elvira @ RepRap Discount... they may have the specs posted on their website as well. It is definitely a standard M thread but I can't remember if it is 5 0r 6 and I'm printing right now....
     
  4. Harry

    Harry Team ROBO 3D
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    Hi guys,

    I am liking the sound of the Hexagon Metal Hot end. Something we may start switching over to on these machines here shortly. We have realized that there is only a few hot end makers out there that really can make a legitimate hot end and we think the hexagon may be one of those. And hopefully in bulk we can get some good pricing. Is everyone so far in favor of this hot end?!
     
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  5. reprapdiscount

    reprapdiscount New Member

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    You're right, it's metric, M6.

    Since you ordered one, please be warned that the heater cardridge could hardly fit into the heated block. An ebay customer complained and I checked all and I found some. Now all are fixed.

    And one more thing; I've made a kind heater block isolator from special rubber, looking for 10 hexagon users to test it and post some review. If any of you has time and is interested, I will send him after easter holiday. Please PM me your address.




    image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
     
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  6. warlocke

    warlocke Active Member

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    That looks like a nice thermal wrap. Is it a shrink fit or adhesive?

    Have you noticed any reduction in heat creep?
     
  7. SoLongSidekick

    SoLongSidekick Active Member

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    PM sent.

    Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk
     
  8. Red Submarine

    Red Submarine Active Member

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    It is a pretty good hot end, my only issue is that it is shorter than the supplied head and the e3D, which means that 1. the cooling fan has to have a wind directing cover on it for it to work and 2. a cooling fan for the hot end itself has to be quite small to clear the z height
     
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  9. AxisLab

    AxisLab Well-Known Member

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    I'm glad to here you say that, I have been putting a review together but ran into that same issue, I can fit in in on one side about halfway until it is just too tight. Trying from the other side gets stuck right away. I was worried I would damage it and was about to ask in a message if you had any others like that.
    Is it as simple as just drilling the hole slightly bigger? Or did you make a bigger change? I see the block in the pictures you just posted are black.
     
  10. byteme

    byteme New Member

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    So I just really started testing my Hexagon the other day. So far it seems superior to the Magma and the Merlin.
    However, I am having some issue with PLA jamming. Sometimes it will go for 60-70 layers (0.2mm layer height) other times just a few. Could it be a print speed issue (trying to push too much to fast)? Anyone else experience this?

    I am using 3mm filament and at 0.4mm nozzle. Printing at 185C for the most part (but also tried printing hotter). I do have a fan blowing onto the heat sync and there is a shroud (came with the hot end) to direct the air flow.
    That is another question, should the fan be blowing onto the hotend or pulling from the hot end?
     
  11. Red Submarine

    Red Submarine Active Member

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    You want the fan blowing onto the top part with the fins ONLY. Blowing onto the heater block will make it hard for your printer to maintain temperature and could cause jamming
     
  12. byteme

    byteme New Member

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    Another question, my hotend came with a fan shroud to direct the air flow only onto the fins. I would like to print a spare one. Anyone have the stl hanging around.
     
  13. Red Submarine

    Red Submarine Active Member

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    Can you please post a picture? Mine did not come with the shroud and I would like one. Maybe I can model one and share it.
     
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  14. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    I'm wondering that as well. I have a big box of hexagons that only came in a week ago. They don't have shrouds.
     
  15. CAMBO3D

    CAMBO3D New Member

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    i hope you guys test these out.. before buying in bulk only to find they have issues.. just sayin..

    also, has anyone use this hotend yet? I haven't seen any reviews for it.
     
  16. byteme

    byteme New Member

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    Colin at Makerfarm sent me the attached. It needs repaired in NetFabb and I have not printed it yet.
     

    Attached Files:

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  17. byteme

    byteme New Member

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    Some more testing and printing to report.

    1. I have had much better luck on my Makerfarm I3 with the fan pulling air from the hot end fins and blowing out the front than with the fan blowing onto the fins. The same was true with the Magma hot end. I think this has to do with the design of the X carriage on the Makerfarm which sort of boxes in the hot end. I think the boxy nature prevents the hot air from exiting.

    2. Finally got a non-trivial print to go end to end last night without random filament stripping. It appears to be related to volume through the nozzle. One print it jammed half a dozen times (I was watching, stopping and restarting after clearing the jam), slowed the print down and it jammed just once, reduced the extrusion multiplier (1.05 to 1.02) and layer height (0.3 to 0.2) and it printed clean all the way through.

    Next test is to speed up printing again.
    Then I plan to print in Nylon (Taulman 618), PLA again, and then I have some flex, laywood and other speciality filaments I will try.
     
  18. splk3

    splk3 New Member

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    PM'ed for testing!
     
  19. reprapdiscount

    reprapdiscount New Member

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    What is a "shroud" ?
     
  20. splk3

    splk3 New Member

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    byteme posted one - the shroud referred to is the fan mount that includes a duct to help direct airflow across the cooling fins on the hotend.
     

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