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Hexagon Hot End?

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Red Submarine, Mar 20, 2014.

  1. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Because it has a wrench point you don't actually have to heat it up to torque it down
     
  2. Galaxius

    Galaxius Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Mike. Do I need to tighten anything, if so which points am I tightening and holding to tighten? I don't want to break it.
     
  3. AxisLab

    AxisLab Well-Known Member

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    Galaxius, did you have a chance to watch the assembly video posted in this thread? It's about a thousand replies back as this is getting to be a long one lol.


    EDIT: It is in post #74
     
  4. @mundsen

    @mundsen New Member

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    My first test print using the Hexagon + rubber isolator. Printing PLA at 210c , 0,2mm layers.
    Works fine so far, no problems. I plan to test Taulman Bridge next.

    The CornLight works as planned :)
     

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  5. aBrainDump

    aBrainDump New Member

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    Picked up a hexagon yesterday from PrintedSolid.com based on this forum feedback. One piece of advice. HARDWIRE THE FAN TO 12V. Do not use a fan controller. They say the fan needs to be on at all times. They are not kidding. I had left my fan on RAMPS D9 where it was for my J-head the hexagon replaced. The fan did not turn on soon enough and I jammed on my test print. Totally my fault. Fixing the jam was easy. Disassembled the hotend then heated it up with a torch and pushed out the bad PLA. I moved the fan leads to the 12V input on my RAMPS board and was ready to try again.

    So far I have printed a new extruder and gears in PLA at 215C, .3mm layers it printed great. Now that I have the new extruder I will rebuild the hexagon with the silicone boot.

    I checked the cooling fins during a 2 hour print. I could not feel any heat. I am using the fan that came with the hexagon.
     

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  6. Denys Dmytriyenko

    Denys Dmytriyenko Active Member

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    @aBrainDump - those are 2 completely different fans! The one you had with the original J-head is a parts fan and is used to cool down the print. It is controlled by RAMPS and usually kicks in when needed. Also, you would want to keep it with either of the hotends.

    Now, all-metal hotends, like E3D, Hexagon, Prometheus etc, come with their own additional fan, that should be always on, or at least when hotends is hot. That one is used to cool down the "coldend" part of the hotend.

    So, if you are replacing an original J-head with a single fan for any of the all-metal hotends, you would end up adding a second fan with it, not replacing the original one...
     
  7. TCZ8

    TCZ8 New Member

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    @reprapdiscount has anything been done to the hexagon hot ends you are selling now regarding the inner tube sliding out of the heatsink? Seems like the two should fastened together in some way. Set screw maybe? Or put some filet on the stainless steal tube and screw it into the aluminium heatsink?
     
  8. Galaxius

    Galaxius Well-Known Member

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    Thanks AxisLab. I was going to go back through the thread to check for install hints and was going to look at the reprapdiscount site for a vid anyway. But you've made it easier for me to find :)
     
  9. Galaxius

    Galaxius Well-Known Member

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    The one I received this week appears to have the top of the inner tube flared out slightly which would stop it pushing through.
     
  10. TCZ8

    TCZ8 New Member

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    Sounds like good news.
    Reprapdiscount would you care to confirm this please?
     
  11. reprapdiscount

    reprapdiscount New Member

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    Please don't worry this, the hotends are okay, the customer reported one was maybe some one unlucky.
     
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  12. TCZ8

    TCZ8 New Member

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    Hello Elvira,

    Thank you for replying. I understand the hotend was defective but I would like to know if the tube is simply press fitted into the aluminium heat sink or if there IS actually something done during your manufacturing process to prevent it from sliding out (like flaring out the top of the tube as mentioned by Galaxius).

    Thank you.
     
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  13. Galaxius

    Galaxius Well-Known Member

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    @1d1, when you installed the hotend to the stock x carriage did you install the screws so they only bit in a bit or did you screw them all the way in? I don't want to damage the coldend mount more than necessary.

    I was thinking I could print a mounting plate with filament guide that screws to the underside of the x carriage using the bolts holding the extruder on but I've already disassembled my x carriage.
     
  14. Galaxius

    Galaxius Well-Known Member

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    Anyone??
     
  15. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    You can thread it all the way in. Essentially you're tapping into the aluminum to secure it on, and then once you thread along the j-head you'll keep going until it reaches the other side of the opening.

    If you leave it short it'll wobble because the screws are cantilevered. You need them simply supported on both ends of the gregs wade base.
     
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  16. Galaxius

    Galaxius Well-Known Member

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    Thanks again Mike. Hopefully I'll have it printing again this weekend.
     
  17. Datum

    Datum New Member

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    Nice, looks like you can do a push pull with two fans.
     
  18. CAMBO3D

    CAMBO3D New Member

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    yes has mounting for 25mm fans on both sides..
     
  19. reprapdiscount

    reprapdiscount New Member

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    how thick is the 25x25 fan you are using?

    I also got some, are 25x25x10mm they are okay, i also play last week with 15x15x10 and 20x20x10 but for my opinion the airflow is too less, so i decided also to use 25x25.
     
  20. AxisLab

    AxisLab Well-Known Member

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    I'm going to start a thread just on fan mounts and shrouds for the hexagon, I think many of us now have one and this thread is getting lengthy lol.
    For now I played with this one a bit http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:327946

    It's made for a Kossel delta but I shaved the top sides off. it has potential.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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