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Unanswered Layers aren't being finished

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by castmemberzack, May 19, 2016.

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  1. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I dont use it. Ill have to remember to jot down the codes for others lol. I just go firmware route.
     
    #41 Geof, May 21, 2016
  2. castmemberzack

    castmemberzack Member

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    I'll go the firmware route once I get a number that gets rid of this problem. Right now it'd probably be ask much work lol
     
    #42 castmemberzack, May 21, 2016
  3. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    It takes a bit to get the hang of doing the calibration but when its right youll be very happy
     
    #43 Geof, May 21, 2016
  4. castmemberzack

    castmemberzack Member

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    Yah I totally get that.

    Here's a better quality picture if anyone wants to take a wack at it: http://imgur.com/3eDeZvr
     
    #44 castmemberzack, May 21, 2016
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That looks like under extrusion all day long.
     
    #45 mark tomlinson, May 21, 2016
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  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That is significant under extrusion and your numbers you came up with make sense -- they are huge and that makes sense.
    I have not seen that level of under extrusion with a calibration as the only issue. You might be off 15%, 20%, BUT YOURS IS OFF almost 100%. There must be something else going on. Did you remove the nozzle and see if it was blocked or clogged? If you remove the nozzle you can see if the heat break or body of the extruder is clogged as well.
     
    #46 mark tomlinson, May 21, 2016
  7. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    That's just jaw dropping! Holy cow
     
    #47 Geof, May 21, 2016
  8. castmemberzack

    castmemberzack Member

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    Yah i'm going to remove it tomorrow and heat it up. I'll check it all out. I can stick the metal allan wrench the printer came with all the way down. So I know it's not clogged in the upper part.
     
    #48 castmemberzack, May 21, 2016
  9. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    That's good so it'll be easy heat it up to remove the nozzle so you don't break anything.

    I do it with the hotend removed from the carriage so it's easier to work with. My first time I took it off and heated the nozzle with a torch to break it free. I believe it's a 7mm wrench for the hex nozzle. I used a crecent wrench to hold the heat block. Be very careful because it's easy to break the thermistor and heater wires
     
    #49 Geof, May 21, 2016
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  10. castmemberzack

    castmemberzack Member

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    Hahahaha I know it's crazy. It's kind of comical.
     
    #50 castmemberzack, May 21, 2016
  11. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I am very glad your taking it all in stride. Patience is the key to fixing out lovely mini factories :)
     
    #51 Geof, May 21, 2016
  12. castmemberzack

    castmemberzack Member

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    I have broken a thermistor before (or it was defective). Either way i'll probably call tech support tomorrow to talk me through it so I don't screw it up even though i've take all of it out before. I'll let everyone know the verdict tomorrow. I'm really hoping it's a clog.
     
    #52 castmemberzack, May 21, 2016
  13. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    That's never a bad idea better safe than sorry

    If you have any questions just post I'll be around
     
    #53 Geof, May 21, 2016
  14. castmemberzack

    castmemberzack Member

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    So I'm pretty sure somehow the metal got warped on the hotend. Can I buy an E3D hotened and just plug it in?
     
    #54 castmemberzack, May 22, 2016
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Mostly.
    For the R1 and beta? Yes. For the R1+, not quite.
    The hotend itself will fit, but the quick release plate needs to be redone or it will leave the hotend a bit loose.

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1192896

    That is the modified one.
     
    #55 mark tomlinson, May 22, 2016
  16. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Youll need some printed parts and a firmware upgrade unless you also buy the stud thermistor. You are under warrabty so robo should give you a new hexagon
     
    #56 Geof, May 22, 2016
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  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Forgot that. ALWAYS buy the stud thermistor :)
     
    #57 mark tomlinson, May 22, 2016
  18. castmemberzack

    castmemberzack Member

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    http://imgur.com/FiZr6pC

    Here's what happened.

    I can't get the square to detach from those wires. The termistor detaches no problem. It's the other two wires. The tech support guy said to stick a guitar string up there but there's no way a guitar string can fit into that little hole. So I think i might need a new hotend all together.
     
    #58 castmemberzack, May 22, 2016
  19. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    The high e of a guitar string is .3 I think. It will fit. To get the heater out of my hex I had to do it hot, hold the block and gently push on the heater core don't use your finger.... Totally not saying I did....ok I did lol
     
    #59 Geof, May 22, 2016
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The 'square' is the heater block. The red wires are the heater core.
    Just so we are talking the same terminology.
    Did you loosen the allen screw you see in that picture?
    That is what holds the heater core in place.
     
    #60 mark tomlinson, May 22, 2016
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