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My FrankenRobo R1

Discussion in 'Show and Tell' started by daniel871, May 16, 2015.

  1. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Here are some screenshots of my S3D settings for use with the Printinz plate.

    The objective here is to have it so that the printer waits to heat up until after the homing/auto-level operations are done so that the hotend nozzle doesn't burn the printinz plate material every time it touches off.

    First remove the "wait for temperature to stabilize before beginning build" checks for the nozzle and bed.

    View attachment 7523


    View attachment 7522

    Then have this code in the Starting G-Code section:

    Capture2.PNG

    I'm still fiddling with temps to actually run at, but this is the S3D end of things for the code generating. Should be able to adapt this to any nozzle size, material and temperature combination.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Updated image for the starting G-code settings.

    Missed the M-code pairings for temps for the bed and nozzle.

    Capture3.PNG
     
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  3. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Nice which printinZ plate are you using? he has a new "Zebra" one that is not out yet He will cut you one for the robo now if you email him.and he is great...but I have one now for my replicator2 and am about to order one for my Robo3d. I have found it works great exept on large ABS prints..but his blog mentions that anyways.

    Here are my settings for autoleveling before heating..works for PrintinZ or BuildTak..both of them you dont want auto leveling hot. change z offset as needed.
    Code:
    G28 ; home all axes
    G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift Z by 5mm
    M565 Z-0.75 ; set the offset for auto-leveling mechanism
    G29 ; run auto-level
    
    ; This set of code is so that it autolevels before heating so that the BuildTek surface is not damaged
    G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift Z by 5mm so it doesnt rest on the BuildTek while heating.
    M140 S[bed0_temperature] ; Set Bed Temperature
    M190 S[bed0_temperature] ; Wait for Bed Temperature
    M104 S[extruder0_temperature] T0 ; set extruder temperature .
    M109 S[extruder0_temperature] T0 ; set extruder temperature and wait for temp
    M117 Printing... ;Put printing message on LCD screen
    
     
  4. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Just got a picture from my cousin where this finished printing this morning.

    [​IMG]

    .8 nozzle on the volcano, .2mm layer height, 175 C nozzle, 30 C bed on Printinz Plate.

    Probably going to play hell prying that off when I get home. :p
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  6. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Thinking next time I print something like this I should have more shell layers (only had 2 on this one and it may be why there are separations in spots where the face curves transition).
     
  7. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Printed this before heading to work this morning. Need to adjust the 1st layer setting.

    [​IMG]
     
  8. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    First not calibration cube ABS print in progress.

    Have a some warping going on, so going to have to figure out how to better insulate the enclosed chamber.

    20150620_213725.jpg 20150620_213744.jpg
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yea, that is the main issue with ABS.
    Larger, flatter parts are the hardest to get right (or one with a large, flat base).
    Good luck. I did use an IR heat lamp, that helped.
     
  10. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    What does your first layer look like on the printinz
     
  11. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Depends on whether it sticks throughout the print or not.

    A finished print has the look of a single sheet of material (no filament lines), but if it fails to stick for whatever reason it tends to just look like so much stringy garbage.

    That ABS piece I posted above had an almost glass-smooth finish to it when it came off the table (as did every piece prior to that ABS piece), but since that ABS piece pretty much nothing has been able to stick very well.

    It's kind of frustrating because I was very happy with it until this weekend.
     
  12. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    That's definitely a hard ABS print. I wonder if the printinz is warping itself
     
  13. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Progress on latest print, an Eagle lithophane for comparison to someone on FB making the same thing on their CNC mill out of some kind of plastic sheeting they have.

    20150628_202612.jpg
     
  14. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    eagle.jpg

    IMG_20150713_151624.jpg




    Did this with the 1mm nozzle on the Volcano just to see how it would turn out.

    :eek:
     
    #54 daniel871, Jul 13, 2015
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2015
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  15. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Well, finally finished biting the bullet and have a dual Bowden E3D v6 setup with the leadscrew upgrade.

    Dual Bowden setup.jpg


    Pictures of prints will be incoming as soon as I finish printing the Eustathios-style spool holders to go under the Hercustruders, clean up the wires a bit and finish testing each extruder to make sure they're dialed in properly and tackling dual extruder settings in S3D is solved.
     
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  16. jbigler1986

    jbigler1986 Active Member

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    You should run the extruder wires on the inside of the case. Then drill a hole beside the geared stepper to run the wires through.
     
  17. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    New bed to replace the one that was chipping out for whatever reason.

    20150808_170827.jpg

    To attempt to minimize the sagging of the cork on this one, I took some HVAC tape I had handy and just covered it over.

    20150808_171344.jpg

    Much better.

    Put the new magnets in place, glued the glass down, wired everything back up, covered the bed with tape to try to protect the glass and now printing another spool holder.

    20150808_211103.jpg

    Proper bolting in of the hercustruders, also a UPS with a 200amp hour battery rig.

    20150808_211110.jpg
     
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  18. jbigler1986

    jbigler1986 Active Member

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    Looking good. Can't wait to have mine back. You will beat me on dual. Damn you.
     
  19. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Maybe not, I have an email in to S3D support because the software won't do the Dual Extrusion Wizard due to the selected machine not supporting it (even though I have both Extruders and Temperature Controllers set up).

    We'll see. My first test of dual extruding will be the two-color frog in Black and White ABS because that's what I have on hand.
     
  20. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Here is the Robo Dual Extrusion FFF file I got back from Simplify 3D. Will give it a better look when I get home from work but here it is for anyone else that has gone Dual that wants to play around with the new Dual Extrusion Wizard.

    EDIT: You'll need to extract the ZIP file to wherever you keep your S3D processes, of course. I couldn't just upload the FFF file directly.

    Also, you'll need to verify your start and end g-code sections. For whatever reason that data isn't being saved when I export it.
     

    Attached Files:

    #60 daniel871, Aug 10, 2015
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2015
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