My FrankenRobo R1

Here are some screenshots of my S3D settings for use with the Printinz plate.

The objective here is to have it so that the printer waits to heat up until after the homing/auto-level operations are done so that the hotend nozzle doesn't burn the printinz plate material every time it touches off.

First remove the "wait for temperature to stabilize before beginning build" checks for the nozzle and bed.

View attachment 7523


View attachment 7522

Then have this code in the Starting G-Code section:



I'm still fiddling with temps to actually run at, but this is the S3D end of things for the code generating. Should be able to adapt this to any nozzle size, material and temperature combination.

 

Updated image for the starting G-code settings.

Missed the M-code pairings for temps for the bed and nozzle.

 

Nice which printinZ plate are you using? he has a new "Zebra" one that is not out yet He will cut you one for the robo now if you email him.and he is great...but I have one now for my replicator2 and am about to order one for my Robo3d. I have found it works great exept on large ABS prints..but his blog mentions that anyways.

Here are my settings for autoleveling before heating..works for PrintinZ or BuildTak..both of them you dont want auto leveling hot. change z offset as needed.

Code:

G28 ; home all axes
G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift Z by 5mm
M565 Z-0.75 ; set the offset for auto-leveling mechanism
G29 ; run auto-level

; This set of code is so that it autolevels before heating so that the BuildTek surface is not damaged
G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift Z by 5mm so it doesnt rest on the BuildTek while heating.
M140 S[bed0_temperature] ; Set Bed Temperature
M190 S[bed0_temperature] ; Wait for Bed Temperature
M104 S[extruder0_temperature] T0 ; set extruder temperature .
M109 S[extruder0_temperature] T0 ; set extruder temperature and wait for temp
M117 Printing... ;Put printing message on LCD screen

 

Just got a picture from my cousin where this finished printing this morning.



.8 nozzle on the volcano, .2mm layer height, 175 C nozzle, 30 C bed on Printinz Plate.

Probably going to play hell prying that off when I get home.

 

Thinking next time I print something like this I should have more shell layers (only had 2 on this one and it may be why there are separations in spots where the face curves transition).

 

Printed this before heading to work this morning. Need to adjust the 1st layer setting.

 

First not calibration cube ABS print in progress.

Have a some warping going on, so going to have to figure out how to better insulate the enclosed chamber.

 

What does your first layer look like on the printinz

 

Depends on whether it sticks throughout the print or not.

A finished print has the look of a single sheet of material (no filament lines), but if it fails to stick for whatever reason it tends to just look like so much stringy garbage.

That ABS piece I posted above had an almost glass-smooth finish to it when it came off the table (as did every piece prior to that ABS piece), but since that ABS piece pretty much nothing has been able to stick very well.

It's kind of frustrating because I was very happy with it until this weekend.

 

That's definitely a hard ABS print. I wonder if the printinz is warping itself

 

Progress on latest print, an Eagle lithophane for comparison to someone on FB making the same thing on their CNC mill out of some kind of plastic sheeting they have.

 

Did this with the 1mm nozzle on the Volcano just to see how it would turn out.

 

Well, finally finished biting the bullet and have a dual Bowden E3D v6 setup with the leadscrew upgrade.




Pictures of prints will be incoming as soon as I finish printing the Eustathios-style spool holders to go under the Hercustruders, clean up the wires a bit and finish testing each extruder to make sure they're dialed in properly and tackling dual extruder settings in S3D is solved.

 

You should run the extruder wires on the inside of the case. Then drill a hole beside the geared stepper to run the wires through.

 

New bed to replace the one that was chipping out for whatever reason.



To attempt to minimize the sagging of the cork on this one, I took some HVAC tape I had handy and just covered it over.



Much better.

Put the new magnets in place, glued the glass down, wired everything back up, covered the bed with tape to try to protect the glass and now printing another spool holder.



Proper bolting in of the hercustruders, also a UPS with a 200amp hour battery rig.

 

Looking good. Can't wait to have mine back. You will beat me on dual. Damn you.

 

Maybe not, I have an email in to S3D support because the software won't do the Dual Extrusion Wizard due to the selected machine not supporting it (even though I have both Extruders and Temperature Controllers set up).

We'll see. My first test of dual extruding will be the two-color frog in Black and White ABS because that's what I have on hand.

 

Here is the Robo Dual Extrusion FFF file I got back from Simplify 3D. Will give it a better look when I get home from work but here it is for anyone else that has gone Dual that wants to play around with the new Dual Extrusion Wizard.

EDIT: You'll need to extract the ZIP file to wherever you keep your S3D processes, of course. I couldn't just upload the FFF file directly.

Also, you'll need to verify your start and end g-code sections. For whatever reason that data isn't being saved when I export it.