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My FrankenRobo R1

Discussion in 'Show and Tell' started by daniel871, May 16, 2015.

  1. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Finally getting around to posting this thread after much discussion in the Shoutbox while I fumbled around with settings and cleaning things out over and over until the extruder and hotend fit together well.

    Basically, it was a shaky start, but I think I'm finally at a spot where I'm happy with my Robo and how it's running.

    I'm using Simplify3D, the E3D v6 hotend mentioned in the title and a somewhat-more-modified Greg's Wade Extruder (the one that came with the Robo).

    I reamed the thru hole for the PTFE tube that feeds into the hotend to be 3/16" (.187") instead of the 4.2mm (.167") from the E3D Modification thread, and also drilled the same size hole in the top of the extruder where the tensioners hold the filament in so I could install what I've been referring to in the Shoutbox as my "halfass Bowden rig".

    [​IMG]

    The wider hole in the part of the extruder being held closed by the tensioners is to accommodate more PTFE tubing that (starting with the Z-axis at the home position on the bed) reaches about 3" thru the slot in the top of the printer. What will happen as the extruder moves up is that the PTFE tube will ride up the filament being used and coil around the spool (this may or may not work very well with filament spools that have nets around them like T-glase, haven't tried it yet).

    [​IMG]

    As of this posting, the Robo is printing a scaled-up Aria Dragon (scaled to basically fill the Z-axis traverse on the Robo) as a test of this setup; it's at 90% in Sky Blue PET+ material. I'll add a post with a pic and the settings used once it cools off and I take it off the bed (and the rest of my posts in this thread will basically catalog successful prints, materials used and settings for the given print).
     
    #1 daniel871, May 16, 2015
    Last edited: May 16, 2015
  2. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    This is the Aria Dragon from Thingiverse, scaled about 1.75 larger than the STL hosted there.

    Material: Sky Blue PET+
    Nozzle size: .4
    Nozzle Temp: 260
    Bed Temp: 80 (no tape/glue/adhesive, just the glass)
    Layer height: .2
    Shell width: 3
    Solid Bottom Layers: 4
    Solid Top Layers: 6
    Infill: 25% Rectilinear
    Speeds: 40mm/s, standard Simplify3D settings from there for the various movements.

    Here is the result:

    [​IMG]
     
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  3. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Printed this Benchy with Sainswood's Light Woodlay using S3D's standard PLA settings on High detail.

    And yes, I filled a sink with water and it actually floats! Pretty neat.
     

    Attached Files:

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  4. Droid

    Droid Member

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    I have pretty much the same setup as you, only exception is I modified the parts fan with a duct , with that I get better cooling. Did the same exact print same size, I had to trim my top case to retain max z axis height.
    [​IMG]
    printed it with some low end PLA, airbrushed it afterwards.
     
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  5. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    :)
     
  6. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Printed the bulletbox jbigler shared with me the other day to stabilize the X-axis by weighting down the side that doesn't have a stepper motor in it.

    Made a huge difference in the noise made by the printer (much quieter now)!

    Here's the STL file if anybody else wants to print it. Just went with standard S3D PLA settings and set the skirt to print 40 lines so that the support material has something to hold on to. Then fill it with coins or something until the vibration noise is decreased.

    Currently taking another stab at Bridge and printing the Emmet Planetary Gear some of you have been printing.
     

    Attached Files:

  7. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Okay, T-glase experimenting hasn't gone very well.

    This keeps happening to a wine glass model, but it was pointed out in the shoutbox that the person that posted it hasn't actually printed it themselves either, so I'll be trying a different model.

    Either way, this is an object lesson in how T-glase should print super slow (and may require the volcano add-on for what I would like to do with it).

    [​IMG]
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It really wants to be printed hot, thick and slow (really slow).
    I thought I had mentioned that somewhere :)

    yes, the volcano absolutely helps this (if you remember the slow bit)
     
  9. Stephen Capistron

    Stephen Capistron Active Member

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    I find that PETG has a minimum layer time that it likes and thin sections like the stem, get very messy because it is not long enough. My work around is usually to just print multiples spaced out and to turn the non-print movement speed down.

    Something to try would be to print a simple cone and figure out which layer height things start to get messy at and figure out the minimum print time from there.
     
  10. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    For the thermistor pretty much anything is fine. The heater core needs to be rated a lot higher (11 amps minimum I'd say and frankly I would go higher).

    There was almost an entire thread dedicated to connectors :) A long thread...
     
  12. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Experimented with lithophane printing last night, kind of surprised by it.

    Standard S3D PLA settings for high quality, see attached pics.

    IMG_2664.jpg 20150528_052323.jpg 20150528_052339.jpg
     
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  13. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Not the highest quality photo, but printed this last night.

    IMG_1049.JPG

    Part 1 of 4 chessboard quarter pieces, then the build plate full of tiles that I'll be printing in white PLA (or cinnamon, or maybe grass green, I haven't decided yet), then the actual chess pieces.
     
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  14. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Ok, so volcano upgrade with stud thermistor is complete.

    Printing 3dbenchy in pla with tge .4 nozzle seeing how high I can crank the speed without issue.

    Currently at 160% of standard S3D high quality settings for PLA.

    [​IMG]
     
  15. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    And the finished Benchy.

    IMG_1049.JPG
     
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  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    See? The volcano kicks butt :)
    Even with the larger nozzles (0.8 and larger) you can get really, really detailed prints -- quickly.
     
  17. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    I'm unreasonably excited about changing out for the 1.2mm nozzle and printing a vase in T-glase.
     
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  18. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    T-glase vase mode 1.2 test running right now.

    image.jpg
     
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  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Hopefully it turns out great.
    I am nothing but happy with the volcano and frankly did not lose the amount of detail that I anticipated.
     
  20. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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