My FrankenRobo R1

Finally getting around to posting this thread after much discussion in the Shoutbox while I fumbled around with settings and cleaning things out over and over until the extruder and hotend fit together well.

Basically, it was a shaky start, but I think I'm finally at a spot where I'm happy with my Robo and how it's running.

I'm using Simplify3D, the E3D v6 hotend mentioned in the title and a somewhat-more-modified Greg's Wade Extruder (the one that came with the Robo).

I reamed the thru hole for the PTFE tube that feeds into the hotend to be 3/16" (.187") instead of the 4.2mm (.167") from the E3D Modification thread, and also drilled the same size hole in the top of the extruder where the tensioners hold the filament in so I could install what I've been referring to in the Shoutbox as my "halfass Bowden rig".



The wider hole in the part of the extruder being held closed by the tensioners is to accommodate more PTFE tubing that (starting with the Z-axis at the home position on the bed) reaches about 3" thru the slot in the top of the printer. What will happen as the extruder moves up is that the PTFE tube will ride up the filament being used and coil around the spool (this may or may not work very well with filament spools that have nets around them like T-glase, haven't tried it yet).



As of this posting, the Robo is printing a scaled-up Aria Dragon (scaled to basically fill the Z-axis traverse on the Robo) as a test of this setup; it's at 90% in Sky Blue PET+ material. I'll add a post with a pic and the settings used once it cools off and I take it off the bed (and the rest of my posts in this thread will basically catalog successful prints, materials used and settings for the given print).

 

This is the Aria Dragon from Thingiverse, scaled about 1.75 larger than the STL hosted there.

Material: Sky Blue PET+
Nozzle size: .4
Nozzle Temp: 260
Bed Temp: 80 (no tape/glue/adhesive, just the glass)
Layer height: .2
Shell width: 3
Solid Bottom Layers: 4
Solid Top Layers: 6
Infill: 25% Rectilinear
Speeds: 40mm/s, standard Simplify3D settings from there for the various movements.

Here is the result:

 

Printed this Benchy with Sainswood's Light Woodlay using S3D's standard PLA settings on High detail.

And yes, I filled a sink with water and it actually floats! Pretty neat.

 

I have pretty much the same setup as you, only exception is I modified the parts fan with a duct , with that I get better cooling. Did the same exact print same size, I had to trim my top case to retain max z axis height.

printed it with some low end PLA, airbrushed it afterwards.

 

Printed the bulletbox jbigler shared with me the other day to stabilize the X-axis by weighting down the side that doesn't have a stepper motor in it.

Made a huge difference in the noise made by the printer (much quieter now)!

Here's the STL file if anybody else wants to print it. Just went with standard S3D PLA settings and set the skirt to print 40 lines so that the support material has something to hold on to. Then fill it with coins or something until the vibration noise is decreased.

Currently taking another stab at Bridge and printing the Emmet Planetary Gear some of you have been printing.

 

Okay, T-glase experimenting hasn't gone very well.

This keeps happening to a wine glass model, but it was pointed out in the shoutbox that the person that posted it hasn't actually printed it themselves either, so I'll be trying a different model.

Either way, this is an object lesson in how T-glase should print super slow (and may require the volcano add-on for what I would like to do with it).

 

I find that PETG has a minimum layer time that it likes and thin sections like the stem, get very messy because it is not long enough. My work around is usually to just print multiples spaced out and to turn the non-print movement speed down.

Something to try would be to print a simple cone and figure out which layer height things start to get messy at and figure out the minimum print time from there.

 

I'm thinking about getting the volcano pack from Printed Solid, but it looks like the wiring connectors on Amazon from the E3D upgrade thread are out of stock (mainly so I could have connectors wired up for swapping back and forth, in case I want to).

Would any JST 2-pin connectors work just as well, such as these?

 

Experimented with lithophane printing last night, kind of surprised by it.

Standard S3D PLA settings for high quality, see attached pics.

 

Not the highest quality photo, but printed this last night.



Part 1 of 4 chessboard quarter pieces, then the build plate full of tiles that I'll be printing in white PLA (or cinnamon, or maybe grass green, I haven't decided yet), then the actual chess pieces.

 

Ok, so volcano upgrade with stud thermistor is complete.

Printing 3dbenchy in pla with tge .4 nozzle seeing how high I can crank the speed without issue.

Currently at 160% of standard S3D high quality settings for PLA.

 

And the finished Benchy.

 

I'm unreasonably excited about changing out for the 1.2mm nozzle and printing a vase in T-glase.

 

T-glase vase mode 1.2 test running right now.

 

And finished!