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My New Printer

Discussion in 'Show and Tell' started by WheresWaldo, May 22, 2015.

  1. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    After a few weeks of lurking and saving my pennies, it came down to this Robo3D or the Printrbot Simple Metal. The Robo won, obviously:).
    [​IMG]

    A few things I noted in my introduction thread in that sub-forum about what was in the box and what I did when I pulled it out of the box. Double-checked every metal to metal screw thread for thread locker, and of course there was none. But I also did not have any loose bolts either. I do feel better that I took the time to disassemble the entire printer and reassemble it so I have a better understanding of it's mechanical functions. Now unfortunately my first print wasn't a calibration print. I had to print out a Y-Axis Belt Tensioner (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:396823). First I bonded my broken part while filling out a parts replacement request using UV activated Bondic resin. I was hoping that it would hold together at least as long as I needed to print the replacement part.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    It came out just a shade on the small side, but that was with zero calibration. Overall I am impressed with how well it works essentially straight out of the box. Now once my computer finishes off it's upgrade I will get back to calibrating and printing out some test and enhancement objects.

    One thing I noticed, there seems to no longer be a need to print out the Z-Axis Stabilizers as the 8 mm smooth rods now go all the way up to the top of the case and sit in a little recess holding them in place. I've got Cura set up but I do plan on getting a Raspberry Pi 2 and run Octoprint, so it can essentially be a stand alone network printer. I don't want to keep running up and down stairs to between my main computer and the one the R1 is currently attached to. Not sure if I will get an LCD or not with the RP2.
     
  2. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    That turned out pretty good. Lol that part came broken on mine too.

    I thought about setting up my PI, but the LCD i bought on amazon was under $50 and seems to work and was easy.

    Did yours have the right firmware? mine did not. I downloaded the 8mm firmware and then my prints were the right size in the Z axis.
     
  3. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Haven't checked firmware yet still waiting for the latest build of Window 10 to finish installing.

    Forgot to mention, printed that with no blue tape, no hairspray, no glue. I didn't even clean the build plate. Now that I got it swapped in for my repaired piece, I will calibrate then print a few more, just in case.
     
  4. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    After a week I am really starting to get a feel for the printer. Used up most of the blue starter roll just testing and printing calibration junk. It is way less complicated than many of the calibration guides make it seem. Also I see that a lot of people have earlier versions of the Robo and a lot of stuff is just different.

    So far, of practical value, I have printed the repair parts above as well as feet that lift the entire printer 10 mm. I have printed two different versions of on-top spool holders, neither of which I really like. I printed the parts fan shroud from @Galaxius, but it will be replaced by a modified version of the Black Widow Dual fan by @TechSupportGo. I am printing it out of PET-G to try it out. I have replaced every Philips screw with an appropriately sized allen head cap screw. Need longer ones for the extruder hinge.

    As far as upgrading, I am debating the LCD since I always had plans on getting the Raspberry Pi/OctoPi combo. I am dumping the very noisy stock fans and replacing them with Noctua fans. The biggest source of noise seem to be the cooling fans and not the steppers. Blue LEDs will go, replaced by something more useful. Some sort of better cable management. At some point I will replace the hotend with a E3D v6, although it is not high on the list since I am printing fine with the Hexagon. At some point the herringbone gear set will be printed, again I am in no rush.

    All in all I am so far happy with the RoboR1. I will post some pictures after the current mods are done printing and installed.
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The practical printing differences between the E3D and the Hexagon are really moot.
    The differences only matter if you need to maintain them, so if the Hex is working don't touch it :)

    Now if you need something like the volcanco adapter then you can justify a switch. It can really print larger models a lot faster, however if you use the smallest nozzle it doesn't loose much in terms of print resolution -- smaller models can still come out looking really good.

    The LCD is a cheap add-on (I went with the 10 dollar Chinese one, so dirt cheap) and worth doing even if you go the OctoPi route. I use it and have a PC attached. Still adds some value.
     
  6. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Nice.

    How does that @Galaxius, shroud mount? the thingiverse page talks of tapping a piece of aluminum and whatnot.

    yea that fan..i guess the one under by the arduino board is LOUD. Just turning my machine that the only fan running and the thing is crazy loud.
     
  7. Galaxius

    Galaxius Well-Known Member

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    You can just use a regular nylock nut with the M3 bolt for securing the fan duct to the mount. The tapped aluminium bar is just nicer and easier to angle the duct.
     
  8. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    It clips on, I just used a small bolt and nut to hold the mount and shroud together at the proper angle. The whole unit just clips on to the end of the X-Carriage. It couldn't be any easier. And it works. But I wanted something that is more solid and bolts on since I don't really install and remove stuff. Like I mentioned in the other thread, until I print a new Hexagon shroud that holds two fans I am using a mix of the @Galaxius and the Black Widow bolt on.
     
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  9. Galaxius

    Galaxius Well-Known Member

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    2 of my ducts works like a charm ;)
     
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  10. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    I know, but I am moving to a more permanent dual fan, that's why I am at a hybrid.:D
     
  11. Galaxius

    Galaxius Well-Known Member

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    The fan ducts by @TechSupportGo look very nice. I think I'll look at them a bit closer myself.
     
  12. TechSupportGo

    TechSupportGo New Member

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    I uploaded the SolidWorks file for the Black Widow fan shrouds, I would be interested in seeing what you did with it :) Are you just using the dual fan mount or are you adding the shrouds?
     
  13. Galaxius

    Galaxius Well-Known Member

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    I'd be using the shrouds. Nice that you put the Solidworks file up. I like seeing other people's ideas and their solutions to various problems. Gives good inspiration.
     
  14. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    I am using a lot less plastic in the mounting section to make up for lengthening the shroud and I rounded all the inside corners and edited a few of the holes (smaller and recessed heads) since I use these screws when attaching to plastic: Metric Thread-Forming Screws for Plastics. Also since I only have 10 mm (11 actually) thick fans I was able to extend the shroud by 10 mm and that allowed mounting all 4 screws and less obstruction to the fan.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    I would actually remove more if I was going to publish a remix of your Thingiverse item, but I just did it for myself since it adds almost no additional functionality to your current model. Here is how it looks all assembled with the dual fan shroud @Mike Kelly posted on Thingiverse.

    [​IMG]
    Printed in PET-G

    I am trying to make my own Hexagon shroud that uses a 40 mm square fan but I just don't think there is enough room, I will likely just find a 30 mm square fan in place of the very crappy 25 mm that Robo supplies.
     
    #14 WheresWaldo, May 29, 2015
    Last edited: May 29, 2015
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  15. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    One more thing, I did order a Full Graphics LCD Controller. I had a bunch of Banggood points and it came out to less than $10 for the same one that eBay sellers have for $12 - 18. Now in three weeks when a package arrives from China and I have forgotten all about it, it will be like Anniversary|Birthday|Holiday and I will be surprised when I open it.
     
  16. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Not sure you'll get much flow through those without the 20mm width fan he uses
     
  17. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Don't need gale force winds, the stock fan was okay but with two fans, even though the CFM is lower individually, I am not losing as much as you would think. Less than 1 CFM total difference, with a huge reduction in noise. If it wasn't for the 25 mm hotend fan you would barely hear it at all over the very small rumble of the stepper motors. And any airflow directed at the part is better than the stock arrangement.
     
  18. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    It's not the fan but rather the ducting that causes a forward pressure preventing the fan from flowing efficiently. You'll lose a significant amount of CFM to the point where you'll barely feel anything. Negating the entire purpose of fan ducts.

    You'd be better off not using his fan ducts and just using the fans ductless on the mount I made.
     
  19. jbigler1986

    jbigler1986 Active Member

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    Yep. Ductless fan work great. I can bridge really well without them. My prints look better without the ducts than with them. They aren't really needed.
     
  20. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    I would think the original design of the fan ducts would have more back pressure than my redesign since some of the fan area is unused and blocked off, which seems that the need for larger/faster/noisier fans is trying to overcome. But I am going to try the dual fans shroud-less and see how that works.
     
    #20 WheresWaldo, May 30, 2015
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2015

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