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My New Printer

Discussion in 'Show and Tell' started by WheresWaldo, May 22, 2015.

  1. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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  2. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Before I get the camera, I dug out some of these LED strip that I had in a box with all my multi-rotor stuff.
    [​IMG]
    Need better lighting than the blue Robo used, this roll is white. I also have a roll of amber LEDs. Likely will go six per side rather than the 3 per side of the original, should make it bright enough for any webcam.
     
  3. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Today, stud thermistor was installed as well as latest development firmware. Had to revert back to firmware from July 07 to get the Robo working again. Printed a new shroud for the E3Dv6 that accepts a 40 mm square fan, but it broke on installation. Was printed in ABS, will reprint in PETG. _2MG5977.png
     

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  4. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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  5. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Okay been a while for this, updated a few things.

    On the Robo:
    • Using Marlin 1.1.0 RC3
    • Using my cheap Z axis lead screw upgrade. Nearly perfect vertical walls after adjusting the acceleration values in Marlin.
    • X and Y axes upgraded to self-aligned self-lubricating bearings. Now that they are completely broken in and seated the axis movement is whisper quiet and smooth. Less maintenance as a result of not having to lube the rails all the time.
    • Bigger power supply, two reasons, my Robo power supply died and I am moving to using an SSR and larger heated bed, I am also contemplating having a MIC-6 bed cut to replace the borosilicate glass which now has a few more chips missing.
    • Added a few extra LEDs

    On the Workstation:
    • Biggest change was replacing my aging Dell 2407/2408 dual monitor setup with a single 4K UHD 43" monitor
    _1MG6033.jpg
    Sorry for the blurry image, I only have three 10W compact fluorescents lighting up the entire room. Still need to calibrate the screen with the ColorMunki. Working on CAD models for 3D printing in 4K is going to take some getting used to. Next up will be a new graphics card so I can play the occasional game in 4K (actually it's UHD 3840x 2160).
     
  6. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Wait, is your desktop background a screenshot of your literal desktop?
     
  7. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    No I took a picture of a picture in Lightroom. My desktop background are a slideshow of pictures of cities around the world.
     
  8. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Just got my new heater pad from AliRubber. It is 240 x 240 300W 12v and will be used to replace the kapton heater on my printer. At least now it will both heat faster and heat the entire build area not use the middle 2/3's of it.

    http://www.aliexpress.com/item/240x...adhesive-back-NTC-Thermistor/32412799214.html

    One week from order to delivery, these guys are very good and so much selection. Also if you don't see exactly what you want, you can ask them and they will make it for you.
     
  9. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    What a chore, I will post pictures tomorrow. Replacing the heater is not a novice task. First I disconnected the wiring from the RAMPS board, it is two screw terminals connected to D8 and a 2-pin dupont connector plugged into T1. Then pulled off all the aluminum tape from the bottom of the bed. Most of the cork came with it. What remained was the Kapton heater. Wished I took a picture but it was obvious why the heater is of such poor quality and does not heat up the entire bed. When I pulled off the Kapton heater some of the black paint came with it but worse, a lot of glue residue remained on the bottom of the bed. To remove it also removed more of the black paint. To make the whole job of cleaning the bottom easier I turned to paint remover. The black was coming off anyway, so took it all off. After cleaning up the entire bottom of paint it was time to locate the new heater. I put the plate back into the printer and located Y minimum and Y maximum travel locations. marked it with tape. Removed the bed, flipped it over and attached the new silicone rubber heating pad. AliRubber includes 3M adhesive on one side of the pad. Once located it was time to do some wiring.

    Wiring was pretty straight forward, since I went with a 300W heater, which exceeds the 11A maximum provided by the RAMPS board (approximately 25A maximum draw), I wired up my clone Fotek DC/DC SSR. The bed is wired to terminals 1 and 2, the RAMPS D8 is wired to terminals 3 and 4. Turned everything on and turned on the bed from the LCD. The bed started heating and wouldn't stop, the SSR and it was stuck on and melting. So much for cheap SSR clones. I also had a high capacity relay used in Arduino projects that I was able to wire up and now everything started working again. Taped the top of the relay to the bottom of the Robo and buttoned everything up. Did a test run to see how well bed heat was being maintained and at 40°C I did see the LCD display between 39°C and 41°C. That good enough. Shut it all down and will get back to it tomorrow to do some more testing.

    A few observations, the silicone heater takes much longer to cool down than the kapton heater Robo specs. So maybe things like ABS may warp less than with the stock heater, time will tell. It heats up almost as fast as the hotend now. and there seems to be little need to insulate the bottom with either cork and/or tape as the bottom of the heater is noticeably cooler than the bed.

    SSR-25DD1[1].jpg
    This should have worked provided you purchase a genuine Fotek.

    37695-2[1].jpg
    This is what I got to work.

    240x240MM-12V-300W-Silicone-heater-bed-for-3D-Printer-With-3m-adhesive-back-NTC-Thermistor[1].jpg
    This is the new heater.
     
    #49 WheresWaldo, Mar 5, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2016
    robert sanchez and Mike Kelly like this.
  10. mark tomlinson

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    Nice. Similar relay to what I used on the Smoke Detector. Very easy to stub into most circuits and not expensive.
    Did you adjust the firmware any?
     
  11. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Sorry, yes had to disable PWM, now using Bang-Bang for bed heater.

    Configuration.h
    Code:
    #define PIDTEMPBED
    
    Changed to
    Code:
    //#define PIDTEMPBED
    I should also mention that AliBrothers uses DHL to ship worldwide, I got my heater in just one week. Much faster than eBay and cheaper too even though shipping was the same price as the heater pad, still just $31.00 total.
     
    #51 WheresWaldo, Mar 6, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2016
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  12. WheresWaldo

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    _1MG6050.jpg

    Here is the bed after upgrading. It was a lot of work to clean off all remnants of the black paint but I think it came out okay. Bed heats nearly as fast as the hotend now.
     
    Geof, Mike Kelly, jonnyb44 and 2 others like this.
  13. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Have you got a link to this relay?

    And maybe a crude hand sketch of how you did the wiring (a simple MSPAINT with boxes for the Arduino/relay/PSU and +/- labels for wires)?

    I'm going to do the same thing to my FrankenRobo at some point (already have the heat pad on order) and want to make really sure I don't get something crossed when wiring it up.
     
  14. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    For comparison, how does Tom Salanderer's sketch in his video compare to how you wired yours up?

    Capture.PNG
     
  15. WheresWaldo

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  16. robert sanchez

    robert sanchez Active Member

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    @WheresWaldo nice work. Seriously looking good.

    Would you mind, also posting the link for the heaterbed you picked from AliBrothers.

    Thanks
    Rob
     
  17. WheresWaldo

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  18. WZ9V

    WZ9V Active Member

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    Michael's Arts and Crafts sells a 24x48x5/32 roll of cork if you decide to add the insulator back in.

    Watch the temps on that DC/DC SSR. Some of the cheap ones can heat up really fast because they use a BJT Transistor instead of a decent FET. With a 20V 20A (400W) load I measured one reaching 79C at the attached huge heat sink. Several in the Delta groups using large beds have had melt downs with the FOTEKS like you pictured.

    This is recommended as a good one (note the much lower on resistance of 0.006 ohms, the others have an on resistance of more like 0.1 ohm resulting in much more power loss in the transistor within the SSR.
    http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=288

    I did the same test at 20V 20A (400W) with this one and it barely gets warm.

    Probably too late now, but black grill paint with a heat treatment to set the paint is recommended as a way to paint the bottom of the glass.
     
  19. WheresWaldo

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    Don't need the cork with a silicone heater, also didn't use the SSR as they sent me a cheap Chinese counterfeit instead. I am using the relay to power the heater. Like the glass clear, that way I can actually see the first layers if I am using black filament. I am not planning on painting this anytime soon. If I do anything else, it will be to replace the bed entirely with a MIC6 .250" aluminum plate.
     
  20. WZ9V

    WZ9V Active Member

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    Glad to hear you didn't use it. Like I said at 400W the one I had was at 79C at the heat sink. It definitely would have melted eventually. The Auber one is nice though should you decide that a clacking relay is too noisy ;-)
     

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