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New Taulman nylon 'Bridge'

Discussion in 'Printing Filament' started by Printed Solid, Mar 7, 2014.

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  1. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    you literally quoted it
     
    #61 Mike Kelly, Sep 9, 2014
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  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It is at the link you quoted.
     
    #62 mark tomlinson, Sep 9, 2014
  3. David Sparrow

    David Sparrow Member

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    You guys will find this funny... I replaced my hotend with a E3D v6 and rebuilt my heated bed, I updated the firmware on my arduino, but I don't know how to change the mm/s settings for the printer. I can find the settings but there are so many of them. Which settings to I change if I want to slow the speed of the printer down to 30-50 mm/s because my print head jams after a while (I'm running 250c on the print head)?
     
    #63 David Sparrow, Oct 19, 2014
  4. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    I'll admit, that is pretty funny, but I bet you're not alone. I hear tons of people refer to their print speed as a % number based off of whatever the default is in easy mode of their slicer...

    Anyways, to change speed to a known value, you need to adjust it in the slicer. If you're using any of the robo defaults, you're probably at 60 or lower already anyways.
     
    #64 Printed Solid, Oct 19, 2014
  5. David Sparrow

    David Sparrow Member

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    Yep in the slicer, that is where I was looking, I have a material set up called "Taulman Bridge" I have the following set...

    Filament > Filament > Diameter
    Filament > Filament > Extruder Temperature
    Filament > Filament > Bed Temperature
    Filament > Filament > Bed First Layer

    What I am trying to figure out is which of the below do I change or should I change multiple?

    Printer > Extruder 1 > Speed = I wasn't using this but when I clicks on it it started at 30 mm/s is that what speed it's already been printing at? ( is this just the flow rate out out of the nozzle and if so Do I also have to slow the printer movement down also?)

    Print > Speed (I found many speed settings bug none appeared to control general movement speed except the minimum speed)

    Maybe my confusion makes more sense. Can you tell me which of the settings I sould be tweaking and why? I'll figure out the numbers myself.

    Thanks for any help you can give.
     
    #65 David Sparrow, Oct 19, 2014
  6. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    Sounds like you're running slic3r from within matter control. Try opening it from within repetier host instead or just download slic3r on it's own. When you run it on it's own and mouse over the settings an explanation comes up.

    Every single setting under that speed tab affects the speed the head is moving during the print. For simplicity and a first swag at getting bridge figured out, you can just set all of the 'speed for print moves' speeds to something like 30-40. leave the non-print move at a pretty high value; this will help with stringing a little bit. Leave all of the acceleration settings at 0 to stick with firmware control.
     
    #66 Printed Solid, Oct 19, 2014
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Grrr... been too long since I played around with this and needed to do a print with the bridge. On try 4 with the temperature a bit higher than I expected... seems to be wanting to jam up more than I remember, but when I find the sweet temp again I am writing it down. I apparently when brain dead and forgot to last time.

    In hindsight, probably too fast as well. Sloooowing it back down.
     
    #67 mark tomlinson, Oct 31, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 31, 2014
  8. g00bd0g

    g00bd0g New Member

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    I have now printed over 10lbs of Taulman Bridge! I love this stuff. Some random data for you guys.

    1. 1st, I have printed 99% of this on a different printer running a 3mm hexagon hot end.

    2nd. I have had lots of jamming issues on the robo3d with the filament buckling between the drive gear and the hot-end opening. I have only been trying for a few days and expect I will find the magic temp/speed combo soon.

    3rd. My "other" printer currently has a 3mm hexagon hot end, .4mm tip. Priniting .2mm layers I have had excellent results running between 30 and 50 mm/sec @ 250c.

    4th. This filament is VERY sensitive to moisture absorption. After months of care-free printing I have had lots of issues recently. The filament is crackling and bubbling and releasing clouds of steam when extruding. I checked the ambient humidity, and sure enough, it has been very high for the last few weeks and I guess my filament just drank it up. Drying it now :)
     
    #68 g00bd0g, Nov 4, 2014
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I also had better luck with larger nozzles (.6 and .8) but it can be used with a .4 (if you go slow).
     
    #69 mark tomlinson, Nov 5, 2014
  10. lemuba

    lemuba Active Member

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    whats about warping?
     
    #70 lemuba, Nov 5, 2014
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I had a little bit of warp on the first few layers, but nothing near as bad as say ABS. It was pretty minimal.
     
    #71 mark tomlinson, Nov 5, 2014
  12. lemuba

    lemuba Active Member

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    Thanks Mark!

    I will give it a try asap - Nylon might be a very nice material to print my quadcopters...

    Br,

    Matthias
     
    #72 lemuba, Nov 5, 2014
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That is actually what I used it for--at least on one project. It made for better parts (stronger) just test it first because the bridge material is flexible. It will bend if thin enough
     
    #73 mark tomlinson, Nov 5, 2014
  14. lemuba

    lemuba Active Member

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    I printed here another cheaper Nylon, but this was warping like crazy - and I printed slow and hot. As soon I order the Taulmann Nylon, I will order also a 0,6mm E3D Nozzle...

    Br,

    Matthias
     
    #74 lemuba, Nov 5, 2014
  15. g00bd0g

    g00bd0g New Member

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    I have been using it to print my RotorBits (http://www.bitsworks.com/rotorbits.html) copters and it is amazing! The printed parts are just totally indestructible.
     
    #75 g00bd0g, Nov 5, 2014
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  16. David Sparrow

    David Sparrow Member

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    I still couldn't get it to print without jamming so I measured my filament. I was too thick. I contacted Tom at Taulman and he swapped it out for a good roll. I'm now able to successfully print!!! I love this material!!!

    After tweaking it for a bit here are my settings with E3D v6 hotend.

    Retraction length 0.5 (important otherwise you pull hot material past the heat break)
    Retraction Speed 20 mm/s (important otherwise you pull hot material past the heat break)
    Speed down to 15 mm/s
    layer height 0.300 mm
    heat is at 260c but my thermister appears to be off a bit so it's to compensate.
    heat bed 90c
     
    #76 David Sparrow, Jan 17, 2015
  17. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Hazzah! Yeah they had a batch that were slightly oversized, around 1.8mm. Which is the identical diameter to the hexagon so any slight bulge would cause it to jam.
     
    #77 Mike Kelly, Jan 17, 2015
  18. David Sparrow

    David Sparrow Member

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    Right now I'm trying to work out getting it to stick well enough to the heated bed. My wife brought home a UHU glue stick which has worked better than PVA glue but The edges still come up on larger prints. I've ordered some Elmers Extra strength glue stick because I heard it's alot stronger grip. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
     
    #78 David Sparrow, Jan 17, 2015
  19. Mike Glass

    Mike Glass Active Member

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    Bed too hot? Aquanet hairspray works great, but not sure about on Taulman.
     
    #79 Mike Glass, Jan 18, 2015
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