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Non-warping, no smell, PET filament

Discussion in 'Printing Filament' started by Ruser, Aug 30, 2015.

  1. David Sparrow

    David Sparrow Member

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    Thanks KTM, I read your post and saw your heat settings. That made me look at what the lowest temp people have gotten away with for Esun petg on a E3D v6. I've seen down to 223 online. So I've been lowering my temp. I started at 270c and have attempted down to 240c now. I'm going low and slow at this point using 0.8mm nozzle with a .6 layer height. To discribe the problem if I were to bridged the filament would fall down, it's not cooling fast enough (with fan on 100%). I'll keep trying a lower temp.
     
  2. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    How big is the bridge your trying to do? I havn't tried a very big bridge. I just use support in simplify3d usually.

    This was ESUN PETG black. I dont have a good shot of up under the roof where the bridge would be but it came out better than anything else i have tried.

    [​IMG]
     
  3. David Sparrow

    David Sparrow Member

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    KTM what hotend are you using?
     
  4. Menissalt

    Menissalt New Member

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    Why do you guys do this? I have so much PLA and I'm already going to Microcenter today! Now I HAVE to buy some PET filament.

    I'm really excited to see how it works.
     
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  5. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Once you try PETG you will never buy another roll of PLA, unless you are looking for a specific color.
     
  6. David Sparrow

    David Sparrow Member

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    I wouldn't go that far. I've had success with it but it's not had rigid as PLA. I think that products like InPLA (Taulmans enhanced PLA) and PHA/PLA have places in the market. I will say that so far it's looking like PET and PETG printing materials are a good middle ground.
     
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  7. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    PLA in most forms is very brittle, it has its uses. With most printers now moving toward more standard features like heated beds, it isn't, or shouldn't be, the default filament type. It is easier to print than ABS, no odor when printing and does come in a variety of colors if you count all the PET derivatives.

    Plus suppliers like eSUN and others are driving the price down, so at some point there will be no financial advantage to using PLA, other than available colors.
     
  8. David Sparrow

    David Sparrow Member

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    ESUN PET is on price wise on Par with Cheap PLA. I have been having trouble getting reliable materials specs on it. What I have found so far has been impressive but I can't find Elongation before Yield. It's hard to compare apples to apple without that. I do think their PETG is a very nice middle ground.
     
  9. David Sparrow

    David Sparrow Member

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    My problem printing with the material was due to simplify3D poor overhang functionality. I had attempted to print from 270 down to 217 (yes it will print that low 0.8mm). Along the way I noticed the best material properties for my E3D v6 seemed to be about 240c. I tried Cura again and it printed it flawlessly. So I guess I'll stick with both Simplify 3D and Cura.
     
  10. c. West

    c. West Member

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    With the E3d Volcano I can print the petg white down to 205. This stuff has a pretty big temp range

    Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
     
  11. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @c. West That is good to know, I have an unopened spool here that has been sitting for the past month. It has been set aside for my daughter's upcoming computer build. She wanted a Black/White Windowed computer and the only thing she can't find was the video card she wants was either red or green. So we are going to take it apart and the fan shroud will be reprinted in white PETG
     
  12. c. West

    c. West Member

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    The only thing I've noticed printing that low is the layer adhesion starts to suffer on sharp corners or fast sweeping ones. I think 210 or 215 is a better option for it using the Volcano at least.

    Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
     
  13. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    The only thing I print very low is PLA, and not much of that either. I think all my PETG profiles are around 238°C, but that is with a standard E3Dv6 I have a Volcano set to go into my other printer. I usually print a tall box that I slice with no top no infill and two perimeters, about 30 x 30 x 60 mm. Then after slicing I edit the g-code so that every 10 mm the temp drops 5°C. That way I can narrow down the range that looks good and prints good. Usually the upper specified limit is where I start but that is almost always too hot.
     
  14. c. West

    c. West Member

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    Yeah that's a good idea. I never have taken the time to truly zero in my temp for this stuff because I can get pretty good results with a 10 degree swing or so. Off topic but one thing I did notice for you when you do the volcano is with the screw in thermistor, it does not like a cooling fan. It messes with the temp alot and has a hard time stabilizing the temp during prints

    Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I don't have it swing much during prints, but at startup it can (mostly during auto leveling). So I used the change in startup gcode to set the temperature there. That has resolved 99% of the TEMP FALL errors.

    I do have a 40w heater core in there, but the Volcano has a 40w heater core with it (E3D v6 is 25w). If you swapped in a different one then it might be slower to get and stay at temp.
     
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    40w heater cores are dirt cheap on eBay (and other places) if you think yours is faulty...
     
  17. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Here is the G-Code file I use for testing PETG it is not completely square it has two rounded corners and one square, the other is cut off at 45°. Besides the geometry, the temperatures it is printed at are embossed on the front face, so you can also examine how small details will look at certain temperatures. It decrements the temperature 5°C every 10 mm in height.

    I built it in 123Design quite some time ago, but I use it any time I get a new type/color spool of PETG. Please note that there is no Z offset specified in the G-Code so if you need one then you will have to add it yourself. I use Marlin 1.1.0 RC3 so I use M851 stored in EEPROM instead.
     

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  18. c. West

    c. West Member

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    I'm thinking mine still came with the 25w. It looks identical to my V6 heater and still has the same lead colors. A 40w might help though

    Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
     
  19. c. West

    c. West Member

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    Thanks for this. I'll try it out and see how off I really am:)

    Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
     
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It should have had a 40w, that would be an issue.
     

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