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reprapdiscount LCD display

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Printed Solid, Jul 26, 2013.

  1. Robert Choban

    Robert Choban Active Member

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    I bought my XXL controller from Printed Solid and I printed the case for it from a stl file I downloaded from the internet, same as the one SteveC printed. I plan on using Velcro to attached to the front on my printer, just like steve did. Can someone tell me what size screw, bolts and nuts I need for putting the case together. Also did steveC have to make up a new wiring harness or was the one that came with unit long enough to attached the XXL controller to the front of the printer and thread the wiring harness through the printer to be mounted on the Arduino
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  3. SteveC

    SteveC Well-Known Member

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    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:79820, from the "Thing Info" tab:
    To fasten the controller board to the bottom part, first put the distance cylinders between the boards and use metrical screws M2 x 10 or tapping screws 2,2 x 10. Both will work without tapping before.
    You need two different width machine screws. One set to hold the LCD to the bottom and one set to hold the shells together. I am traveling now so I can't measure them but I probably used the M2 width mentioned above for the LCD. You could load the .STL file into Sketchup or 123D and measure the other hole sizes. Then scale them down about 15%. They self tap into the plastic nicely. I suggest that you specify 3 vertical shells to get sturdy plastic to screw into. You can resize the holes to whatever screws you have.

    I used the stock ribbon cables. I just put some shrinktubing to keep them neatly together. I was very careful about folding and routing the cables from the hole I made in the back of the case. I can give you more detail if you need it when I get home tonight.
     
  4. Robert Choban

    Robert Choban Active Member

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    Thanks for your response. I printed the bottom case with the hex risers, that look like spacers. With this bottom do I still need the distance cylinders, if I need them, how many should I print and where do they go?

    I have the newer RoBo R1 with the existing SD card and a bottom plate which holds the fan that cools the Arduino card. On yours it looks like you feed the cable through the right side of the glass plate. and then went under the printer to connect to the Arduino card. Did you have a problem routing the cable past the fan. Because my printer has a bottom and the fan is attached to the bottom plate of the printer, there maybe a clearance problem. Did you have to twist the flat cable to get it connected to the Arduino card.
    Thanks again for your response.
     
  5. Dave Haskins

    Dave Haskins New Member

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    I figured out my issue. I was so worried about whether or not something was wrong with the screen or the GCode that I didnt consider the possibility of the actual export format I was using. It was set at grid 25% inlay....Which is not enough apparently to allow a full layer to not break and become stringy (when using PLA. ABS would be fine I presume). So when I increased the inlay amount to 50%, it performed beautifully. I just actually had to watch it happen for m eto see what was going on. Noob mistake.....:/ But there it is in case this happens to someone else....
     
  6. SteveC

    SteveC Well-Known Member

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    The disc spacers (distance cylinders) go between the LCD module and the main circuit board. I don't remember if there are 2 or 4 of them, probably 4. Without them the two boards will squish together when the 2mm screws are tightened. I did not use the one with the hex risers. I just used machine bolts with no nuts. I'm not even sure what those hex slots are for other than to bolt the entire case on to something. I don't think they are needed but probably don't get in the way.

    The ribbon cable does not need to go anywhere near the fan in my kickstarter setup. Yes the cable goes through the opening on the right side near the Z stepper. I carefully folded the two cables in a few places so they lay flat and followed a neat contour that worked. You will have to play with this. Don't fold them so tight that the insulation breaks. I used heat shrink tubing to keep the cabled together but electrical tape will work just fine.
     
  7. SteveC

    SteveC Well-Known Member

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    Can you post a photo of the underside of your R1 when you get a chance? I'm interested in what they have changed recently.
     
  8. SteveC

    SteveC Well-Known Member

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    I'm glad you figured out a solution. What do you mean by "export format"? Is it the slicer setting? Does"grid 25% inlay" mean "25% rectilinear infill"? (I'm using Slic3r terminology. If so you should still be able to get a good top layer with 25% infill. Something may be wrong with your cooling, temperature or the filament.
     
  9. Bjorn

    Bjorn Member

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    Anyone had a print halt when using the LCD's?

    I'm using the Smart Graphic LCD.

    I had a bigger print today printing from SD, 2 times over it halted at random spots.

    I already used shorter cables running from the ramps to the GLCD board.

    Via USB prints are perfect.. but when using the SD card on the lcd the print will halt at some point.

    Any ideas?
     
  10. scotta

    scotta Active Member

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    I usually copy the code to an sd card then start the print using the graphic controller.
    I have had the odd random stop. However I have not had any stops if I disconnect the usb cable from the printer.
    I don't know enough about usb controllers to know for sure if this could be the problem.
     
  11. SteveC

    SteveC Well-Known Member

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    I have only used the XXL LCD and the printer is never connected to USB. It has never halted on me.
     
  12. Ziggy

    Ziggy Moderator
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    I print from full graphics LCD with cables extended to 1 meter and no problems at all. More reliable than printing from Repetier.

    I would suggest using a different brand of SD Card (eg Sandisk) with a capacity no more than 4-8 gb. Reason is the LCD controllers and Marlin use the SPI low speed interface on the SD Cards. Not all SD Cards implement the SPI interface well because cameras and such don't use it. Cameras etc use the high speed SD Card interface.

    Low capacity SD Card is important because the Marlin SD Card software uses only FAT32 addressing (and limits the file name to 8.3 characters). Marlin has only a kinda low tech SD Card interface.

    The SPI Marlin interface is set to 4mhz clock speed. You can go lower speed (eg 2mhz) by changing a Marlin parameter if you really do have a SPI reliability issue.
     
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  13. Galaxius

    Galaxius Well-Known Member

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    @Ziggy. Have you used the XXL? I'm in the market for an LCD, just wondering which is better and why, the XXL of Full Graphic?
     
  14. Bjorn

    Bjorn Member

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    Today, I had an excellent full print..

    What i did was wrapping the 2 cables seperate in aluminum foil.. and grounded 1 end of both foils to a GND pad on the Ramps board.

    I had taken a good look today at the RAMPS board design in conjuction with the Arduino board. concerning the SPI bus.. --- Jichhh! ---
    It´s totaly no clean combination of both.. very sensitive for EMI/RFI..

    I might considering of making my own board.. Ramps + Arduino on 1 PCB
    Like all sensitive i/o like LCD/SPI/USB etc.. really seperated from noisy electronics like stepper drivers, bed/heater switching electronics.
    And this to fit inside the Robo.

    Maybe a nice winter project :)
     
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  15. RokleM

    RokleM Member

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    The stock cables are a little short for the R1, I was thinking about replacing them.

    Did someone find a good source for quality replacements (I would think 18" or so)?
     
  16. Bjorn

    Bjorn Member

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    In my opinion even the stock cables are too long..
    I wouldnt go any longer then them.

    Quality cables, in this case they dont exist. because the printer reads the SD and writes the LCD all the time..
    If some goes wrong with reading the SDcard like in my case you will have a hangup.

    Longer cables act like Antennas for all kinds of Electro magnetic waves, Motor ignitions, Big broadcast transmitters, etc........

    What I did is shielded the cables with adhesive foil, like aluminium/copper or silver conductive tape.

    Ferite clamps in this case wont work because it's incoming EMI we are afraid for. We dont need to surpress the outgoing EMI of the data bus.

    I prefer none cables.. just SD card directly on the PCB.
     
  17. Ziggy

    Ziggy Moderator
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    I am using the full graphics (also known as Smart Controller LCD 12864 ) basically because the design of the LCD and SD card PCB and circuit is better. I have mine connected via flat cables 1 meter long with no issues reading/writing the SD Card.
     
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  18. Bjorn

    Bjorn Member

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    Can you tell me what in the circuit make you think is better?
    Because when I look at both schematics. I see both LCD types are 4bit driven, with the same pinouts on the 2x5 header,
    The buffer is the same a standard 4050 for the SD card.
    The 3.3v regulator is the same
    And looking at the Gerber files, not much difference either.

    Full graphic: http://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/5/51/RRD_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLER_SCHEMATIC.pdf
    Normal: http://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/7/70/Controller_final_reprapdiscount.pdf
     
    #198 Bjorn, Sep 29, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 29, 2014
  19. Ziggy

    Ziggy Moderator
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    #199 Ziggy, Sep 29, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 29, 2014
  20. Robert Choban

    Robert Choban Active Member

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    Can someone tell me if the newer LLC controller is consider a full graphics controller, or is this the controller, ziggy is talking about, that I'm going to have trouble with if I extend the cable length. Can I buy a cable already made up with connectors attached that are needed for the controller end and the Ramps board. I need the cables to be another 8 - 12 in. longer than the original cables. I would be will to pay for pre made cables.
     

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