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Community Favorite Taking the R1+ ramps and rewiring to make generic Ramps Work

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Geof, Apr 22, 2016.

  1. Jordan Maller

    Jordan Maller New Member

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    This part confuses me how do you have them wired up exactly


    Now all that is left is wiring your Ramps fan, LED strips and hotend fan to the 12V input connection. I know it seems like alot of things going to this input connection but 12V is 12V :D. It will look a little cramped but it will work. Remember Polarity! + to +. What I did was put the fan, 1 LED strip to 1 side and the other LED strip to the other. It made connecting everything much easier.
    A fun note! My R1+ LEDS use to flicker alot, after moving them from the connector the to 12V input connector on the Rep Rap Guru Ramps I have not noticed the flickering and they seem brighter!
     
  2. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    The 12v input is the green connector or you can wire them to the power supply
     
  3. Jordan Maller

    Jordan Maller New Member

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    I got it figured out by watching expert novices video thanks
     
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  4. Chuck Glenn

    Chuck Glenn New Member

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    WORKED GREAT for this part from amazon, $7 at time of purchase: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071L378QV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Note that there is a 2-pin marked "12vdc aux" that the bottom-cover fan can plug into so you don't have to strip and hard-wire that one. it's not marked real well put positive is toward the middle of the board.

    I'm printing the test circle now in ABS! Happy camper for someone not too confident with wiring. Now I return the $100 official part I wish I hadn't ordered in the first place. At least they've already agreed to take it back. We'll see how that goes.

    Probably also worth noting that on this board there is a Z0/Z1 next to each other and that's where you want the Z motors (leave E1 empty). As with the stock RAMP before it, all steppers have the black wire toward the power end except Y which is backward.

    And be sure to install all 3 jumpers under all 5 stepper controllers. I left them off and had to pull it all apart and start over...

    And if you have the blue/gray wires on your LEDs, the blue is the positive.
     
    #64 Chuck Glenn, Mar 3, 2018
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2018
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  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yea, they thought (for some reason) that dual Z stepper drivers was a good idea. It really isn't since the Z driver is more than capable of handling two Z steppers (they are slow, lower current draw) and then you don't have to worry about one getting out of sync/dropping steps :) Either both work or both fail.
     
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  6. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    Hi Geof,

    It looks like the mosfet finally gave out on my R1+ RAMPS board and I'm probably going to do this generic switch. I have this Rep Rap board already. It looks like the jumpers are already installed?

    Thanks,

    Curtis
     

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  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yep, jumpers are all done on that one. You want them all installed -- those are.
     
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  8. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    I've read through this thread a few times now.

    I think I have a pretty good understanding. Seems easy enough.

    A couple questions. Does the generic RAMPS snap into the original Audrino board that came with the Robo?

    Am I going to lose the use of my XXL LCD screen and have to go with the one that came with the generic RAMPS?

    I'm not exactly clear where I'm hooking in the LCD lights and RAMPS fan.

    Thanks,

    I'm going to give it a go, Once I build up the confidence.

    Curtis
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes, identical to the Arduino side.


    Nope. It attaches and works exactly the same.

    Hook them straight to the power supply 12v output. Power on then they are on.
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Really all Robo did was change some output power connectors and eliminate some unused (by them) IO pins on the board to save a few bucks.
     
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  11. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    Thanks Mark!
     
  12. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    Worked perfectly. Thanks for creating this thread!

    Curtis
     
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  13. mitchell_busa

    mitchell_busa New Member

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    Hey I was wondering if you guys could help me with a predicament with my R1+. When I was printing last week, the green wire going to the extruder stepper motor broke from its connection, causing the motor to stop working. Luckily, I was right in the room and immediately shut it off when I realized the issue. After replacing the connection and making sure that the connection was solid, I checked to see if the motor would work again. However, the stepper motor still didn’t want to turn. I switched the extruder connection with the connection on the X-axis and tested the X-axis (connected with the Extruder Stepper Motor) and it worked fine. So I concluded that the extruder stepper motor works. So I thought it might be a problem with the driver. I swapped the Extruder driver with the X-axis driver and tested the X-axis, and had the extruder stepper plugged into the normal extruder ports. However, it still did not turn. I couldn’t really conclude anything from this, so keeping the drivers switched, I switched the connections of the extruder and X-axis once again, and tested the X-axis. The extruder stepper turned, proving that the driver was not the cause of the issue. From this, I thought it might me the RAMPS (the original black one on my R1+). So I bought a standard RAMPS 1.4 and configured it to the specifications provided at the absolute beginning of this thread. Plugging everything back in correctly (ie extruder stepper with extruder driver, X-axis stepper with X-axis driver) I tested the extruder stepper. This once again did not turn. I decided to see if the connections were all good so I swapped the extruder stepper with the X-axis and it worked fine. From this, I believe that I can say that it is not the RAMPS board. From this, I bought another Arduino Mega and put the same software I had on the original Mega. Plugged in everything, using the R1+ original RAMPS and it sill did not work. Just out of curiosity, I decided to plug it into the standard RAMPS 1.4 board (changed wiring to once again follow the instructions at the beginning of the post) and it still did not work. I have no idea what is happening with this system, as I tried to eliminate every variable that I could think of to try to pinpoint the issue. I was hoping someone maybe had a similar issue as I truly have no idea at this point.
     
  14. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Is the extruder at temp when your trying to extrude ? If not the software won’t allow it.
     
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  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yep, the firmware will throw a COLD EXTRUSION error (into the GCode terminal) and not let you extrude.
     
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  16. mitchell_busa

    mitchell_busa New Member

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    Yup, that seemed to be the fix - works perfectly now. Thanks so much for your advice and quick responses.
     
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  17. N827TM

    N827TM New Member

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    quick question? After this modification, is there a way to control the fan speed on the extruder? I am hoping there is a place to plug the extruder fan into on the board versus running it at 100%. Thanks.
     
  18. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I'm not sure exactly what you mean? The hotend fan thats on all the time? Pretty sure you want that running full speed :D. Or do you mean to turn on at a specific temp vs being on all the time? That is set in the firmware and your fan would go to a specific pin for that to work (much like Prusa and a few others do)
     
  19. N827TM

    N827TM New Member

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    thanks for the quick reply. I do a lot of thin wall printing where the fan speed would be adjusted on layer height. I am still semi new with the processes. If the fan ran 100% on the stock board with no control I will connect this fan to the 12 volts and be done with this modification. Geof, thanks again for sharing this awesome modification. Everything works, The only thing I have left is making a harness to plug the12 volt fans into and the LEDS.
     
  20. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Hey,
    Its still a bit early for me so I'm not comprehending everything I think. Which fan? For the part cooler (the fan that blows on the printed part) you control through your slicer and must hook up and shown above. The 12V cooling fan that blows on the hotend assembly can be hooked up anywhere there is a constant 12V. You really want that fan (cold end fan) on 100% to avoid issues. The part fan would be your variable speed and controlled from the slicer to the pin designation above :D I'm hopin that all makes sense :D
     

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