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The CES 2016 Robo3D R1+Plus

Discussion in 'Show and Tell' started by daniel871, Apr 5, 2016.

  1. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Okay, so I'm going to skip some of the early issues just getting the printer running with the faulty PSU and the leaking Hexagon. Got a replacement Hexagon from Robo and replaced the PSU with the one I'd bought for the original R1 I had prior to this one before the Arduino on that R1 died.

    I've updated the firmware to the RC4BugFix that @WheresWaldo has been good enough to keep going for us in his thread and have run Mesh Bed Leveling and all that good stuff.

    Extruder calibration bears out that the esteps in that customized firmware match what this particular Robo actually does (100mm extrude command actually pulls 100mm of filament).

    However, I'm getting prints that look like this:

    20160405_184106.jpg

    20160405_184112.jpg

    I've also attached the Simplify3D profile I'm using for reference. Not dedicating too much time to this because I'm working on some stuff with the Prusa i3 I also have, but if anyone can see any glaring reasons why this is happening or what I should do, please share.

    I've printed calibration cubes and circles and those turn out fine, but objects like the one above don't turn out well at all.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. jonnyb44

    jonnyb44 Member

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    Retraction settings???


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  3. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Are in the .FFF file, but here are some screenshots.

    Capture.PNG Capture2.PNG Capture3.PNG
     
  4. jonnyb44

    jonnyb44 Member

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    Looks good to me


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  5. jbigler1986

    jbigler1986 Active Member

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    Looks like oozing. What Temps are you printing at?
     
  6. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    195 on the hotend.
     
  7. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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  8. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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  9. AutopsyTurvy

    AutopsyTurvy Active Member

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    A lot of the bits on the front across the chest look like lines that got yanked out of place. You might try lowering your X/Y movement on the "Other" tab. The print speed looks fine otherwise though. If it's not the movement, it might be the temp - perhaps those bits aren't hot enough to stick. I print PLA at a much higher temp than I used to and am getting a lot better results - try adding 5 or 10 degrees too?

    Might also try an extrusion multiplier of 0.9 and change your retraction to 1mm, 0 vertical lift, 1800 for retraction speed, and uncheck "minimum travel for retraction" on the "Advanced" tab. Higher temp may increase ooze issues but your settings are... excessive, retraction-wise, maybe, and could be causing some of the "zits"

    You also probably don't need more than 2 walls and 10% infill for something wee and decorative like that, too. Not that it matters for appearance, just saving time and plastic. :)
     
  10. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Most of my settings were added after some earlier attempts to print that statue that were much worse, it's actually been getting a lot better with every iteration, but I'd run up against a wall figuring out what else needs to change.

    Last night I went into the EEPROM and changed XY Jerk from 16 to 8 on a lark and printed this model.

    20160406_053225.jpg 20160406_053221.jpg

    The "zits" are greatly diminished in size, but still there.

    I'll revisit the statue thing after work and try your changes (1800/s seems pretty high on retraction though).
     
  11. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @daniel871 I wouldn't have thought that Jerk setting would make any difference at all. It is used when making changes to direction because our machines do not have Zero mass and cannot accelerate instantaneously. Jerk is used to account for that. If the zits happen where directions change then I could see that some oozing might be the cause as it slows then speeds up during those short moves.

    The Coast feature of S3D might be more appropriate if that is the cause.
     
    #11 WheresWaldo, Apr 6, 2016
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2016
  12. AutopsyTurvy

    AutopsyTurvy Active Member

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    1800 mm/min is what I have mine set to. Just gives it a quick slurp rather than yanking it very far back and forth and seems to work okay for me - too much retraction is just as bad as not enough. Is worth a try anyway - any faster/more and it will grind and make unhappy noises, but that's the setting that works best for me printing in PLA exclusively. :)
     
  13. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Welp, issue found I guess. The Extruder stepper motor stopped responding to the signals from the stepper driver altogether this evening when I was mid-print testing the settings @AutopsyTurvy suggested.

    Confirmed this by uplugging the extruder stepper motor and plugging another stepper motor into the driver pins for E0 and it turned when I used the LCD controller to tell it to turn.

    EDIT: After calming down a little about it I've submitted a Warranty replacement request for the stepper motor.

    Guess I'll reset Simplify3D to the default profile it has for the Robo in the meantime and try again whenever that stepper comes in.
     
    #13 daniel871, Apr 6, 2016
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2016
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    :) Spares.

    You still did the right thing by making them replace it.
     
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  15. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    I have spares already from when I went through this with the original R1, but I figure at this point I'm just going to submit requests and keep a record of everything here whenever something stops working.
     
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  16. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Was going to replace the dead Extruder stepper today, but when I turned on the Robo to move the Z-axis down so I could get at the extruder (was up inside the top of the casing) the magic blue smoke escaped from the Arduino/Ramps board thru the opening in the side where the USB port is.

    Submitted a parts/warranty request so that Robo3D would have some record of it, but at this point I'm basically done fucking with anything made by Robo3D. This is the second version of their printer, and the handful of prints I did get were worse than the prints I get from my knock-off Prusa i3 from Monoprice.

    If the track record from the R1 PLA+ABS model I had prior to this one is any indicator, pretty much everything else on the printer is screwed since the controller died in such a catastrophic fashion.

    So much for trialing the E3D Titan on the Robo at some point.
     
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Ouch. Arduino? can you still connect? Or maybe something on the RAMPS?

    The only big plus for the way they did the electronics on the Robo is that they are all standard and inexpensive components. Would a Smoothie board have been a better choice? Probably. (you can use a smoothie board instead if you wanted).

    The mechanical side is pretty mush standard for the Prusa style machines.

    Sorry to see you having such a struggle with it.
    This is one of the reasons I tell people to buy them from say Amazon (rather than direct) since they either work well from the start or are infested with 10,000 demons. :) OK, maybe not quite 10,000. Sucks though to be struggling to learn (and use) a new machine that is non-working. Better to have that depot serviced than to try and have someone who may not have any 3D printer experience doing it.
     
  18. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Best I can tell the main board is fried, removed it this morning and plugged the USB in to see if the PC recognized it and there was no reaction (Same PC I use to make firmware changes with the Arduino software on my other printer).

    Oh well.
     
  19. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    I think when it comes to the Robo's, Daniel lost his four leaf clover a long time ago.

    Daniel, put the Titan on the monoprice. There is already a mount for it.
     
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  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Eh, the Arduino board is easy to replace at least. You will get it all together. Exorcism does work :) (having to do it 10,000 times is the pain)
     

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