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Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Printed Solid, Mar 20, 2013.

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  1. bamhm182

    bamhm182 Active Member

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    I'm a little surprised feeler gauges aren't on here. While I will admit that they're not the most important thing on the list, I use them every time I run through the Automatic Print Leveling wizard to make 100% sure that they're all very close to the same distance. On top of that, I got a set for $7 at autozone a long time ago when I needed them for my car, so they're not too expensive.
     
    #61 bamhm182, Nov 6, 2014
    2 people like this.
  2. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    Agreed. The original list was pre autolevel, thus the indicator, but I was using feeler gages then too. I use 0.06mm for ABS and XT. .1 for PLA.
     
    #62 Printed Solid, Nov 6, 2014
  3. bamhm182

    bamhm182 Active Member

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    Makes sense. I just Googled how thick a standard piece of paper is and got .1 mm back, so I just went with that. Just got my RoBo 3D a week ago today, so I'm still on my in-the-box spool of PLA.
     
    #63 bamhm182, Nov 6, 2014
  4. Stephen Capistron

    Stephen Capistron Active Member

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    #64 Stephen Capistron, Feb 6, 2015
    5 people like this.
  5. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    That would also be useful for looking up at the nozzle and such.
     
    #65 Mike Kelly, Feb 6, 2015
  6. dbvanhorn

    dbvanhorn Active Member

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    "-Cricut spatula"

    Now that's a hoot! I was at a swap meet, with no idea that I was going to buy this printer, and I bought a cricut spatula for $1, thinking "That looks useful for something". 48 hours later, I own a Robo3D M1. (twilight zone theme song)
     
    #66 dbvanhorn, Feb 18, 2015
    bamhm182, Printed Solid, mark tomlinson and 1 other person like this.
  7. Fart_Plume

    Fart_Plume Member

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    LM8uu bearing puller jig:

    20150321_150807.jpg

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:734449 for the jig.
    Hardware:
    1/4-20 x 3 1/2 inch long carriage head bolt, flat washer, and nut.
    For installing bearing I use a hex head 1/4-20 x 31/2 inch bolt and flat washers on both ends. Makes a nice easy straight pull, and flashes the bearing with the outside of the carriage.
    Tools:1 x 7/16 wrench for the puller, 2 for the install.
     
    #67 Fart_Plume, Mar 21, 2015
    Tom Finzel, robert sanchez and mark tomlinson like this.
  8. Ziggy

    Ziggy Moderator
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    I can see how you are pulling the bearings in but are you using this jig to pull them out too?
     
    #68 Ziggy, Mar 21, 2015
  9. Fart_Plume

    Fart_Plume Member

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    The jig is for pulling them out. How it works is that the jig is hollow and the head of the carriage head bolt is small enough to go through the bearing hole in the x-carriage, while landing on the outer metal sleeve of the bearing. The jig is to allow the bearing to be pulled into the jig, which is 1 mm bigger diameter than the bearing, allowing it to fall out of the jig once it reaches the point of release from the housing.
    As for installing the bearing you don't need the jig at all. Just the bolt, nut and two flat washers.

    I guess I need to do a video showing Exactly how to do it.
     
    #69 Fart_Plume, Mar 22, 2015
    romero3d likes this.
  10. Ziggy

    Ziggy Moderator
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    It was just the jig model on thingiverse did not look as though it had a hole big enough for the bearing - probably just a scale thing.
     
    #70 Ziggy, Mar 22, 2015
  11. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    If you want perfect prints every time you use your new Robo, here is something that might help get you there. Pick whatever type of filament you are going to use most often, whether it's PLA, PETG, ABS some concoction of mixed filaments or some exotic filament and buy one spool of the most hideous color you can. Some color you absolutely hate. First reason being, you will probably not try to print anything useful with it. The second and more important is that you can use the entire spool to fine-tune your slicer settings. I mean, use the whole spool printing calibration cubes, deprime items, overhang and bridging test models, temperature test models, everything that just gets thrown out or put in the recycle bin as soon as you look at it once.

    MatterControl, Cura, Slic3r and all the rest of the free slicers will work every bit as good as the more commercial slicers with a bit of patience and experimentation. Try out every setting, calibrate your printer until there is nothing left to calibrate. reprint the same models with single slicer parameter changes until every bit of that hideous spool is finished. You will be so happy you are done, but then can be confident in the fact that you know exactly how your printer is going to behave. I promise you, if you do this, you will become the expert for the next group of new owners that ask all those same questions a novice is asking now. You will have better results when printing and your frustration level will be lower when a new issue pops up.

    You are manufacturing stuff, not really printing. Do what all manufacturers do, test, examine, modify and retest. You will be very happy you did.
     
    #71 WheresWaldo, Feb 15, 2016
    gergiskhan, mjones0216, cdsl810 and 1 other person like this.
  12. Jutte

    Jutte Member

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    #72 Jutte, May 29, 2016
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