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Solved Z Trouble

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Jella_joe, Dec 11, 2016.

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  1. Jella_joe

    Jella_joe Member

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    I have tried getting a video...it's so hard to see. I will try a different light

    Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
     
    #41 Jella_joe, Jan 17, 2017
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  2. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Yup let's run one without the z lift if your up for it
     
    #42 Geof, Jan 17, 2017
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  3. Jella_joe

    Jella_joe Member

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    I will my other half is doing his homework. I will get to it as soon as I can.

    Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
     
    #43 Jella_joe, Jan 17, 2017
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  4. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Once we get you up and printing we will talk about a lcd controller lol ;). Keep us posted
     
    #44 Geof, Jan 17, 2017
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  5. Jella_joe

    Jella_joe Member

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    WOOOHOOOOO!!!!!! I found the Z lift on retraction. It was set to 1mm. I changed that to 0mm and presto! Thanks Guys! I might be able to do this after all! The stringing didn't happen until the very top. You can see that it did sink into it a little. So based on this print. I changed the "Minimum Travel Requiring Retraction" to 0 mm so I can get the nozzle to stop dragging on the surface. I am thinking there is potential overfill too. What do you all think?
    16128227_10210902143602361_1342099240_n.jpg 16128898_10210902143402356_666248543_n.jpg 16144387_10210902143442357_70907504_n.jpg 16121758_10210902143802366_1547743044_o.jpg
     
    #45 Jella_joe, Jan 17, 2017
  6. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @Jella_joe you will need some lift on retraction retraction in order to prevent any kind of scraping of the nozzle along the print. That in combination with retraction to relieve back-pressure will also help with blobs or bulges where the extruder has to move without extuding plastic. I personally use 0.8 mm of Z lift at retractions for most of my profiles. I am sure that many others have never set anything other than the default for Minimum travel for retraction, which in S3D is 1.00 mm. So while it may seem like it solved your issue, it really is more coincidence than not.

    But you are making progress.

    From your last picture there are a few very notable things going on. I tried to see if this is PLA, if it is all that stringing is likely the result of running your filament too hot. PLA as with many other filaments like to extrude as cold as you can get good flow. If this is PETG the opposite is usually true. So the first thing I would do from this point on is try lowering the hotend temp 5°C and see if it still flows smoothly. And be prepared to print a lot of these Deprime tests. As @mark tomlinson, he probably has a whole room filled with that model.

    The offset/jagged layers could be a number of things, but the two most common are not enough belt tension in either the X or Y axis or both, second but not as common for this particular artifact, could be the result of the fan which is under the Robo not connected or loose and not spinning. It is used to help cool the RAMPS and Arduino boards underneath. Overheating can result in missed steps

    The other thing I see from your images might be a slight over-extrusion. This is also a slicer settable parameter and may need a fractional adjustment. Even with all these things, which the wonderful people like @Geof and @mark tomlinson are helping you with please note the following guidance.

    I would also suggest, moving forward, that you only make one change at a time then reprint Deprime.
     
    #46 WheresWaldo, Jan 18, 2017
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  7. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Great job getting the print to finish !

    If you pluck the x belt does it twang or thud ?

    @WheresWaldo is spot on, drop that temp a little bit for the strings.

    Getting closer ! Hang in there !
     
    #47 Geof, Jan 18, 2017
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Clicked

    Like.jpg

    because LOVE was not an option
     
    #48 mark tomlinson, Jan 18, 2017
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  9. Jella_joe

    Jella_joe Member

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    Suggestions? I know! I have a third story window! Something works and instantly that's the wrong thing to do.

    If I have to have the Z lift active then how do I get it to come back down to the model.....3mm in the air is a lot. Meanwhile a large spool of filament is gone and still no answers.

    The print below is done at 190 degrees. That was the only change. 16128538_10210907308451479_1820069528_n.jpg 16128808_10210907308131471_1904678903_n.jpg 16129638_10210907308771487_361703424_o.jpg
     
    #49 Jella_joe, Jan 18, 2017
  10. Jella_joe

    Jella_joe Member

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    All I can print is garbage 9 times.....still have perfect calibration cubes.
     
    #50 Jella_joe, Jan 18, 2017
  11. Jella_joe

    Jella_joe Member

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    Purely informational: 190 degrees command to extrude 100 mm only extrudes 90 mm
     
    #51 Jella_joe, Jan 18, 2017
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    So calibrate the extruder -- you are halfway there already :)

     
    #52 mark tomlinson, Jan 18, 2017
  13. Jella_joe

    Jella_joe Member

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    I tried using the extrusion multiplier to get it to work....1.1 and still 90 mm not 100 mm
     
    #53 Jella_joe, Jan 18, 2017
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    <shrug> My esteps were off by way more than 10%

    Like Z offset -- it is not like there is "A" number, there is "Your" number :)
     
    #54 mark tomlinson, Jan 18, 2017
  15. Jella_joe

    Jella_joe Member

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    I should have mentioned that I know how to calibrate this stuff. Sorry. I mentioned that I was going off of factory settings. I can update configuration.h, verify and upload as many times as I want. Go do an an M503....shows like I did nothing. M92EXXXX M500 then M503...nothing. E723.38 instead of E804

    Of course now it does it. I seriously think I need someone watching over my shoulder to get this to behave.

    I am printing again.
     
    #55 Jella_joe, Jan 18, 2017
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2017
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  16. Jella_joe

    Jella_joe Member

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    The jist from "Z Trouble" is that I can print if I shut off the z lift and I can't if I don't. How do I fix this? I will change the status on the other if we find a way to fix it here.

    I made sure that I have the right version firmware. I am starting again from factory settings. I am working through recalibrating everything. I will try to keep updates simple.
     
    #56 Jella_joe, Jan 18, 2017
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2017
  17. Jella_joe

    Jella_joe Member

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    The left is with Z lift off. The right is with it on (ripped the tall sections clear off after smashing them). I know I have more calibration to do. my layers are at .29 on a .4 nozzle with a .05 overlap. Non-print speed is 100. so I am sure I could slow things down and make a thinner layer height to get the desired look. I am really trying to get the z issue resolved. I was told not to print with the Z lift off.
    16130110_10210908857810212_1677249925_o.jpg
     
    #57 Jella_joe, Jan 18, 2017
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2017
  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Which slicers have you tried?
    I took a glance back over this thread and I am not clear if this is slicer related, firmware or hardware related...
    Did this only start being an issue after the leadscrew ugrade?

    I want to narrow this down to see where the issue is....

    (P.S. Z lift is an odd one since it is rather important on my delta, but I never have used it on my Cartesian printers)
     
    #58 mark tomlinson, Jan 18, 2017
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  19. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    She is using matter control. When i used matter control z lift did the same thing for me. Juat demolished prints. @Jella_joe hang in there we will get this sorted.
     
    #59 Geof, Jan 18, 2017
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  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The it is time to try another slicer.
     
    #60 mark tomlinson, Jan 19, 2017
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