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E3D v6 Information, Installation Guides, and Review

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Mike Kelly, Oct 23, 2014.

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  1. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    P=40w
    V=12v
    I=3.3A

    P=V*I

    P=30W
    V=12v
    I=2.5A
     
    #41 Mike Kelly, Jan 16, 2015
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  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    What is confusing? The Hexagon uses 12v, so does the E3D.
    The hexagon heater is not as big (less watts) that the E3D, but the wiring attached to the E3D heater core is long enough to run all the way back to the RAMPS. So, nothing from the Hexagon gets reused (or needs to be). The RAMPS can handle the E3D with no changes.


    Edit: Hopefully Mikes numbers answer your question.
     
    #42 mark tomlinson, Jan 16, 2015
  3. robert sanchez

    robert sanchez Active Member

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    FYI looks like the new r1 has a disconnection point for the heater at the carriage near the stepper motor. This would allow you to swap out between standard and volcano assuming we find out what kind of connector it is. I'll let you know when I get an answer back from support.
     

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    #43 robert sanchez, Jan 16, 2015
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  4. Robert Choban

    Robert Choban Active Member

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    Mark, Mike
    Thanks for the info.
     
    #44 Robert Choban, Jan 16, 2015
  5. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    Standard 12V E3D kits (at least the ones I carry) are 12V 25W. You don't need to change anything with the wiring.
     
    #45 Printed Solid, Jan 17, 2015
  6. Robert Choban

    Robert Choban Active Member

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    Printed Solid,
    Is the 25W for the e3d v6. Somewhere on the forum I was told the watts for the e3d v6 was 40w and for the hexagon its was 30w. Is this incorrect???

    Also as long as I have you, I bought a screw in thermistor form you, what type is it defined as in the configuration.h file, and if I want to used it in the e3d v6 what size tap do I use for the threads to.
     
    #46 Robert Choban, Jan 17, 2015
  7. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    Whoops, I was thinking of the 24V version. Disregard. 40W is correct. There is no need for changing wiring though.
    The screw in thermistor is the EPCOS type, same as on the hexagon. So, you can just leave it as is in the stock config.h files. I believe it is table 1.
    The E3D V6 block is already tapped. Just screw it in. If you want, you can file down the end of the threads a little bit to get a flush fit, but it's not necessary.
     
    #47 Printed Solid, Jan 17, 2015
  8. ctoler93

    ctoler93 New Member

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    I cut the wires on my new heater cartridge (the one that comes with the E3D and put a JST connector on it and plugged it in directly the the existing JST connector for the Hexagon. It's printing fine but just double checking that I'm not gonna break anything over time. Thanks!
     
    #48 ctoler93, Jan 17, 2015
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Should be fine. Another .8 amps max. (10w @ 12v)
     
    #49 mark tomlinson, Jan 17, 2015
  10. robert sanchez

    robert sanchez Active Member

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    @ctoler93 which JST connector did you use.

    Thanks
     
    #50 robert sanchez, Jan 17, 2015
  11. robert sanchez

    robert sanchez Active Member

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    How to update the firm ware for your E3D V6:

    1) Download the right firmware file from beginning of this thread
    2) navigate to: http://arduino.cc/

    3) download the software

    4) open the arduino program

    5) go to file > open> navigate to the file you unzipped from mike and pick the file within it with the same name, see image

    6) Once the file is open, go to tools> board > arduino mega 2560 (see image)

    7) you may have to check your comm port

    7) hit the" ->" upload button/arrow

    8) thanks to @Mike Kelly for figuring all this out, coding it, posting it, etc.
     

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    #51 robert sanchez, Jan 20, 2015
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  12. drandolph

    drandolph Member

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    Thanks for the write up. Only took me a couple of hours and I back up and printing.
     
    #52 drandolph, Feb 2, 2015
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  13. wthierry

    wthierry Active Member

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    well I just ordered one. I will print the parts, and prepare for the upgrade because I always want another hot end ready, because on previous home made printers I have had them fail for various reasons.... Thanks for the tips!
     
    #53 wthierry, Feb 3, 2015
  14. Robert Choban

    Robert Choban Active Member

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    Did this question from the an above post ever get answered?
    @ctoler93 which JST connector did you use.
     
    #54 Robert Choban, Feb 4, 2015
  15. robert sanchez

    robert sanchez Active Member

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    Buy these from amazon:
    JST Waterproof connectors http://www.amazon.com/10Pairs-13cm-...831&sr=8-1&keywords=JST waterproof connectors
    do not buy from HQ-MASTER they have the wrong part in stock.


    For hard core electrical geeks:
    jst connector info: http://www.jst-mfg.com/product/pdf/eng/eSM.pdf
    You can buy the crimp pins here,
    +male: http://www.newark.com/jst-japan-sol...1t-p0-6/contact-pin-28-22awg-crimp/dp/68C7943
    -female: https://www.newark.com/webapp/wcs/s...JL/3c6NJJkifJ/QlIg=&ddkey=http:pF404ErrorView

    unfortunately the plastic male/female connectors are only in stock in the UK. So I order the preassembled pigtails from amazon, and will disassemble them, so I can crimp the male and female pins on my wires directly without splices.

    Overkill and OCD maybe, but reduces the likelihood of points of failure and I do not want to stiffen the cables with added splices.

    Everything is on order, so I can not confirm that what I have found is truly valid.
    To be continued...
     
    #55 robert sanchez, Feb 4, 2015
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  16. Lew

    Lew Member

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    To those, like me, who have the beta printer without the auto-leveling feature, note that in Mike Kelly's firmware upgrade for the E3D hot end, you will need to comment out the #define for the Auto-Level feature. Otherwise, the Z home button will not work and the Z axis motion gets a little funky.
     
    #56 Lew, Feb 4, 2015
  17. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    I believe the only difference between autolevel and non is that the Z homes in the middle so you need to do X and Y before Z. Which is honestly a better method for any printer.
     
    #57 Mike Kelly, Feb 4, 2015
  18. Lew

    Lew Member

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    Mike, All I can say is that when not commented out, the Z home button refuses to work and the Z limit does not halt the Z axis when at the limit. Try it.
     
    #58 Lew, Feb 4, 2015
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yea, I think I hit this as well and just rolled back.
    Good catch, I'll try commenting that out and reloading.
     
    #59 mark tomlinson, Feb 4, 2015
  20. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    You need to Home X and Y before Z. That's expected behavior when it homes in the center. A home all or G28 command will do this automatically and thus home in the center.

    The Z limit might have been because the nozzle hit the bed before the switch got triggered. The Z switch logic is identical.
     
    #60 Mike Kelly, Feb 4, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 10, 2015
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