Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Mike Kelly, Oct 23, 2014.
Hi. I am in a similar boat - did yu get an answer on the above?
You can use the original thermistor if it is intact.
In that case you don't need to edit the CONFIGURATION.H and change the thermistor type. Leave it to what stock was set to.
This is why I love the one @Printed Solid has the metal stud style thermistor. It is well armored (and is also the same kind/type of thermistor as stock)
What crimp tool are you using for those pins? And where is a good place to get one fairly cheaply?
MOLEX 63811-1000 HAND CRIMP TOOL
They are not cheap, $34 at:
oh one more thing, it is very painful to use, you'll need a lot of patience and might want to practice on a test piece.
It's been awhile since I've used them and I'd forgotten what type to look for. I used another type before at an old job but they had them already and I never thought to ask where they got them since I could just use theirs. I knew they would be pricey. I just looked on Amazon using the model number from your link and found these.
Do you think they would work better?
That looks like it will work.
I have been having all sorts of issues installing the V6.
I have a newer R1, I followed the guide and have gotten the firmware loaded.
But cannot seem to get the filament to come through to the nozzle.
Have tried heating the head and pushing it through, however nothing will come out of the nozzle.
It's obviously stuck somewhere.
Did you put in the ptfe tube? It will be very difficult to feed if you didnt
Yes I did put in the tube. I pushed the tube in the as far as I could.
This is why I suggest drilling out the greg's wade and running the PTFE tube all the way to the hobbed bolt. It's an easy mod and provides a lot of benefit.
Beyond that, remove the screws holding in the E3D. Feed a piece of filament through the extruder into the heated nozzle to make sure it can be pushed out. Then let things cool without removing the filament and resecure the E3D to the carriage.
I have this done as shown in your guide on the first page.
Will try to take out the hotend and feeding some through. How could I hold the hotend while outside of the carriage?
I am not able to push filament through to the nozzle.
It feels like it hits a stop a little over 3/4 the way down.
Take it back apart and see if anything is jammed in the nozzle or heat break.
Hold it with a helping hands or just hold onto it from the groove portion. I usually just let it dangle from the heater wires
Ok looks as though the nozzle came clogged, and the PTFE tub was bent so the heat break was not accepting it.
Got it printing now... well sort of.
I am trying to make the latches that go onto the enclosure you made.
All the layers are quite spread out with a few holes.
Is there a setting I am missing for this? First tried with the LCD XXL them moved back to Mattercontrol 1.2.
Where did you buy this nozzle from? When you extrude filament out does it come out > 0.4mm?
I bought the kit from Matter Hackers since Printed Solid was out. It came fully assembled as well.
Yea the nozzle is set to 0.4mm.
That wasn't really my question. If you push filament through by hand does it come out at least that size or is it smaller
Im not really sure how to measure that, but it's probably slightly less.
I'd suggest investing in a caliper. They have a ton of uses for 3d printing.
So I am not sure how or why this happens but filament has seemed to leak all on the heater block.
Any ideas what steps should I take next?