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Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Mike Kelly, Oct 23, 2014.
What is confusing? The Hexagon uses 12v, so does the E3D.
The hexagon heater is not as big (less watts) that the E3D, but the wiring attached to the E3D heater core is long enough to run all the way back to the RAMPS. So, nothing from the Hexagon gets reused (or needs to be). The RAMPS can handle the E3D with no changes.
Edit: Hopefully Mikes numbers answer your question.
FYI looks like the new r1 has a disconnection point for the heater at the carriage near the stepper motor. This would allow you to swap out between standard and volcano assuming we find out what kind of connector it is. I'll let you know when I get an answer back from support.
Thanks for the info.
Standard 12V E3D kits (at least the ones I carry) are 12V 25W. You don't need to change anything with the wiring.
Is the 25W for the e3d v6. Somewhere on the forum I was told the watts for the e3d v6 was 40w and for the hexagon its was 30w. Is this incorrect???
Also as long as I have you, I bought a screw in thermistor form you, what type is it defined as in the configuration.h file, and if I want to used it in the e3d v6 what size tap do I use for the threads to.
Whoops, I was thinking of the 24V version. Disregard. 40W is correct. There is no need for changing wiring though.
The screw in thermistor is the EPCOS type, same as on the hexagon. So, you can just leave it as is in the stock config.h files. I believe it is table 1.
The E3D V6 block is already tapped. Just screw it in. If you want, you can file down the end of the threads a little bit to get a flush fit, but it's not necessary.
I cut the wires on my new heater cartridge (the one that comes with the E3D and put a JST connector on it and plugged it in directly the the existing JST connector for the Hexagon. It's printing fine but just double checking that I'm not gonna break anything over time. Thanks!
Should be fine. Another .8 amps max. (10w @ 12v)
@ctoler93 which JST connector did you use.
How to update the firm ware for your E3D V6:
1) Download the right firmware file from beginning of this thread
2) navigate to: http://arduino.cc/
3) download the software
4) open the arduino program
5) go to file > open> navigate to the file you unzipped from mike and pick the file within it with the same name, see image
6) Once the file is open, go to tools> board > arduino mega 2560 (see image)
7) you may have to check your comm port
7) hit the" ->" upload button/arrow
8) thanks to @Mike Kelly for figuring all this out, coding it, posting it, etc.
Thanks for the write up. Only took me a couple of hours and I back up and printing.
well I just ordered one. I will print the parts, and prepare for the upgrade because I always want another hot end ready, because on previous home made printers I have had them fail for various reasons.... Thanks for the tips!
Did this question from the an above post ever get answered?
@ctoler93 which JST connector did you use.
Buy these from amazon:
JST Waterproof connectors http://www.amazon.com/10Pairs-13cm-...831&sr=8-1&keywords=JST waterproof connectors
do not buy from HQ-MASTER they have the wrong part in stock.
For hard core electrical geeks:
jst connector info: http://www.jst-mfg.com/product/pdf/eng/eSM.pdf
You can buy the crimp pins here,
unfortunately the plastic male/female connectors are only in stock in the UK. So I order the preassembled pigtails from amazon, and will disassemble them, so I can crimp the male and female pins on my wires directly without splices.
Overkill and OCD maybe, but reduces the likelihood of points of failure and I do not want to stiffen the cables with added splices.
Everything is on order, so I can not confirm that what I have found is truly valid.
To be continued...
To those, like me, who have the beta printer without the auto-leveling feature, note that in Mike Kelly's firmware upgrade for the E3D hot end, you will need to comment out the #define for the Auto-Level feature. Otherwise, the Z home button will not work and the Z axis motion gets a little funky.
I believe the only difference between autolevel and non is that the Z homes in the middle so you need to do X and Y before Z. Which is honestly a better method for any printer.
Mike, All I can say is that when not commented out, the Z home button refuses to work and the Z limit does not halt the Z axis when at the limit. Try it.
Yea, I think I hit this as well and just rolled back.
Good catch, I'll try commenting that out and reloading.
You need to Home X and Y before Z. That's expected behavior when it homes in the center. A home all or G28 command will do this automatically and thus home in the center.
The Z limit might have been because the nozzle hit the bed before the switch got triggered. The Z switch logic is identical.