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About to buy an R1

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Nathanfish, Aug 6, 2015.

  1. jtn7040

    jtn7040 Active Member

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    What do you mean start over?

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  2. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    well not start over but learn what i need to change for good prints.
     
  3. jtn7040

    jtn7040 Active Member

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    Well yes and no... PLA is pretty good starting point .. When I switch from PLA to PETG all I change is my bed temp to 80 and the extruder temp to 255. I also change my speed from 100mm/s to 140 mm/s and retraction from 3@20mm/s to 5.5@45mm/s

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  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Anything easy to print (PLA, PET, that sort) is cool for learning with. Once you get to where you can print what you want correctly then look at the material :)

    We are sitting here commenting on the ultimate materials you could use, but for learning.. PLA is great.
     
  5. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    alright, ordered PLA. Thanks
     
  6. jtn7040

    jtn7040 Active Member

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    Make sure you order 1.75mm filament! On amazon one of the robo3d used to say it req 3mm

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  7. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    This is what i ordered. Should be ready for me to mess with all weekend.

    Order Number: 116-19533XX-XXXXXXX
    • justpla - Navy Blue 1.75mm PLA Filament, Made in the US
      United States
      Guaranteed delivery: Aug. 7, 2015
    • ROBO 3D R1 Fully Assembled 3D Printer, 8" x 9" x 10" Maximum Build Dimensions, 100 Micron Maximum Resolution, 1.75-mm ABS, PLA, T-Glase, Laywood, HIPS, and Flexible Filament will be shipped to
      Guaranteed delivery: Aug. 7, 2015


      We also design completely printed saw fixtures that we send out to have printed. We have learned that we can only use them on aluminum tubing because steel will melt the fixture. Any ideas on the best material to use for those and any idea about how long it would take me to get figured out before i feel confident printing them? Accuracy and tolerance is pretty critical. Currently we pay anywhere from $100-$300 to have them printed and i have 4 that i just designed this week i'm hoping i'll be able to print.
     
  8. jtn7040

    jtn7040 Active Member

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    I would have to have a little more info to give you an accurate answer of an adequate material, however nylons im thinking will be your best bet.

    If you have eng design knowledge I'm going to assume that it shouldn't take you to long to get comfortable. That and there are a lot of very helpful people on the forum!

    Also that navy prints amazing I have some

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  9. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    Cool, ill start researching nylon a little more then. I design all the fixtures myself so i can change them up to print. Pretty excited to get this going. Definitely glad i stumbled across this machine and this forum, you guys have been awesome! Answered more questions in an hour than i have found out on my own for sure.
     
  10. jtn7040

    jtn7040 Active Member

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    Alloy 910 specs you may find of interest: Tg 82C, Pyrolysis 349C, Tensile 8100 PSI, modulus about 73k PSI, elongation about 30%, also make sure when not in use it is kept with descant as nylon loves moisture (excess moisture in your filament will create imperfections in your models)

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  11. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    Noted. So if i print something in nylon would it last in non climate controlled storage for 10-20 years? Does moisture affect it after it is printed? Longevity is also another concern.
     
  12. jtn7040

    jtn7040 Active Member

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    Well I honestly couldn't tell you the answer to that however, in theory after its printed it is still nylon and moisure causes nylon to swell, which will increase elongation and decrease the Tensile str.

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  13. jtn7040

    jtn7040 Active Member

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    PETG may be a better option. It isn't affected by moisture however it is quite flexible if printed thin.

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  14. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    I design the saw fixtures at 1/2" thick but can always change that up if it needs it.
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  16. jtn7040

    jtn7040 Active Member

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    If I were you I would think about printing a mold out of some material PLA or even something like hips if you wanted to reverse mold. And then cast those pieces. The process is quite easy once you learn how to do it and the tools required are available at harbor freight.

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  17. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    I'm going to look more into molds for my standard 3" x1" x1" risers but most of what I will be building will all be unique. Especially the saw fixtures, I will only need one of them, I'll just need them to be durable and able to last.




    Well, my brain hurts from researching filaments. So much information and so many different reviews and opinions. I'm just going to start with PLA and go from there.
     
    #37 Nathanfish, Aug 6, 2015
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2015
  18. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    Any idea why i can't get my R1 to home or do anything? It's connected just fine, updated the firmware, inserted an STL file. but i can't configure it or get it to home.
     
  19. jtn7040

    jtn7040 Active Member

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    What software are you using. To home use G28

    also check all the belts and the end stop switches sometimes in shipping they get disconnected

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  20. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    I'm just using matter control right now. Just trying to print the calibration block.
     

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