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About to buy an R1

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Nathanfish, Aug 6, 2015.

  1. jtn7040

    jtn7040 Active Member

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    Yeah it takes a while to heat up. Does it give any errors when it was printing and the temp dropped

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  2. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    no errors i could really see. Well the second print failed about 10 minutes in as well but because it lifted off the plate. Would fixing my heated plate work or do i need to use a glue stick instead of hairspray? I really do appreciate all your input!
     
  3. jtn7040

    jtn7040 Active Member

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    I like Elmer's purple glue better than hairspray. Heated bed would not hurt but not truly needed with PLA. Which PLA are you using

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  4. Ozzie Alarcon

    Ozzie Alarcon Member

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    So when does the bed need to be heated?
     
  5. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    I'm using the justpla, i overnighted some PETG so i can play with it tomorrow, would that require me to fix my heated bed? OK running to walmart for some Elmers.
     
  6. jtn7040

    jtn7040 Active Member

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    Abs is a must and nylons. But PETG and PLA it isn't required but it doesn't hurt either. I heat my bed to 60 ( 76 in software ) when I print PLA

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  7. jtn7040

    jtn7040 Active Member

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    The glue stick not just Elmer's glue,

    [​IMG]

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  8. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    Got me a 6 pack for $1.09, gonna go run and grab some food and then hopefully have my first successful print tonight. Ok another question. Does it hurt to just leave my extruder up to temperature if i'm not printing for awhile? Does
     
  9. jtn7040

    jtn7040 Active Member

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    I don't believe it is a good idea to leave it at temp for long periods of time if you are not extruding.

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  10. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    Stick glue is working like a champ so far! What is the longest print time you've ever had?
     
  11. jtn7040

    jtn7040 Active Member

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    57 hours

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  12. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    nice. well my print finished and looks great but it's stuck to the base..

    NVM Got it! Turned out good. Now im going to start messing with Cura and see what i can do.
     
  13. jtn7040

    jtn7040 Active Member

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    Let everything cool down. When the plastic is equalized just use the paint scrapper/spatula that came with the printer to get it off

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  14. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    Well I just finished up a 6 hour run time with no issues! Thanks for all your help. Now it's just time to tweak and keep researching. What software do you use? I can see how MatterControl is pretty basic but it seems to be doing a pretty good job from the little experience i have. I would definitely like to upgrade to whatever is the best tho. I'm getting a little bit of lifting i'm guessing because of my heated bed not working. I've emailed Amazon and Robo to see what i need to do about getting it replaced or fixed. Hopefully i can get a fully working printer asap.

    ok i have a few more questions

    What happens when you run our of filament on a large job? How do you estimate how much filament you will need before you start? I have a job i would like to try that estimates at 20 hours on low quality. Should i wait and use something other than MatterControl before i start something of that size? also i just printed some Z axis stabilizers and a new Y axis clip and a few layers separated on them. That didn't happen on any of the other stuff i printed. Any Advice? Would a heat gun maybe help to warm the bed up for the first few layers?
     
  15. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    Largest piece i've printed. Low quality. Turned out pretty good i think. Went into work today and checked to see how well this PLA would ream and i think if i go slow enough it will be ok to use.
     

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  16. jtn7040

    jtn7040 Active Member

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    I use simplify 3d however it costs 150$ and worth every penny. I used to use cura but others like other software anything but matter control. You may have a little lifting due to the z offset not being calibrated completely but yeah get your heated bed working to verify. Check the thermostar leads and check the connections to the Ramps board and ensure they are making a good connection

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  17. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    Cool, i will probably go ahead and buy it then, might as well start with the best. I'm going to tear into it a little more once this print is finished. Any idea why my PETG is wavy on the outside edges when the PLA turned out nice. Printing at 60mm/s and 240 degrees now trying 230. I know i shouldn't but i'm thinking about starting a 20 hr print. Need it at work on Monday or Tuesday. It would probably be best to wait until i figure out Simplify 3d tho, getting a little ahead of myself.
     
  18. jtn7040

    jtn7040 Active Member

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    Sounds like the z offset maybe to high. Pictures would help

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  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Simplify3D has a lot of tutorials on their site. Learning it is not a problem :)
     
  20. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    Here's a pic. I think a reason a couple lifted off the base was because i didn't have glue right on the corner. I put extra glue on the one i'm printing right now and it didn't lift. I am having issues with the PETG snagging a bit on the top of the machine. I might print a new spool holder for the top of the machine, not sure if it's causing any problems with my prints tho.


    This was my very first print with the PETG i just got in this morning. I don't think changing the temperature did anything, maybe i'll go to 250 and test it out.
     

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