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About to buy an R1

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Nathanfish, Aug 6, 2015.

  1. jtn7040

    jtn7040 Active Member

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    To much tension

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  2. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    Welli overnighted some PTFE tube to guide the PETG better and although I've had about 3 failed prints I think I've finally got it to work on one machine. I think an oiler would really help it though so I'm rigging one up pretty soon on the second printer to see

    I'm having some issues with my second printer, here's a pic of my first layer. I've messed with the settings but can't get it to change. Any ideas? The other printer looks good as long as I can keep it feeding.
     

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  3. jtn7040

    jtn7040 Active Member

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    Either under extrusion or your offset is way way too high its hard to tell

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  4. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    You probably have a loose belt. hard to tell if it's X or y, but 2 lines together followed by a gap is a sure sign of backlash, which is most commonly from a loose belt.
    Also, PETG shouldn't need either a guide tube or an oiler. The oiler (which really should be a continual oiler, but rather an occasional seasoning, but whatever works...) is useful for PTFE because it is so sticky when molten. Most of the other filaments available now, including the different flavors of PET, don't have that same issue.
     
  5. jtn7040

    jtn7040 Active Member

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    I've found with the esun stuff it sometimes snaps so I use the same set up as if I was printing flexy

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  6. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    Well I just finished up a 13 hour print with just a couple snags, stopped feeding once, clumps accumulating random spots, the small lettering I need readable was far from it and most importantly once I pulled it off the base its super warped. It's sticking good to the painters take and glue just not the corners. I didn't even notice until I pulled it off.. I turned up the bed temp and I'll see if that helps.

    Once I put an oil on I haven't had a problem with feeding so I'll probably just keep it goin.

    Just checked and my Y belt was really loose on the one that's printing funny. I'm going to have to mess with it in the morning tho. Thanks for the suggestions.
     
  7. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    Pretty ugly.
     

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  8. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    Now I'm wondering if my extruder temp is too high.

    I got some of that high dollar mat in today but I need to make the machine auto level before it preheats the extruder. Not even sure I wanna mess with it.
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Reducing the extruder temp may help.
    Just my opinion here, but that sort of lettering is hard to do well on an FDM anyway.
    Not impossible, but it is going to require some tuning.
     
  10. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    I did a smaller block with PETG and recessed lettering and it turned out pretty good. Maybe it's my extruder temp, i was worried about the layers bonding so i turned it up from 235 i think to 245. I tried slowing it down before it did the lettering but that didn't help, this next one that's printing now is even uglier. Would raised lettering be any better? Also looks like raising my bed temp to 85 did nothing to help it from bowing. Maybe i'll try it with the heater off and see what happens.
     
  11. jtn7040

    jtn7040 Active Member

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    What layer height are you printing

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  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    When you get warp it is always a heat management issue. Since PLA is not known to need a heated bed, lower is a better idea :)
     
  13. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    Printing at .3mm, don't really want to go smaller because these are already 13-15hr print times but maybe ill drop it to .2 and see what my times look like and if it helps. Yeah i think one side of this is warped worse than the first one and this lettering is completely filled in and looks like garbage. I'm printing in PETG not PLA but i think i'm going to start my next one without heat and a 235 extruder temp and see what happens. Time to open another new roll lol. How frustrating, starting to wonder if i can even get these to work.


    With simplify3d could i specify the lettering spots to have a smaller layer height and to print slower?
     
    #133 Nathanfish, Aug 16, 2015
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2015
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You certainly could adjust it by layer with Simplify (temperature and speeds).
    The slicer on it may do a better job as well, but that is just an opinion.
     
  15. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    Starting to wonder if I'm oiling too much and it's causing it to pull up. Also it's the tape that's pulling up and I cannot get it to stick without tape so I'm going to try to wipe it better with alcohol or maybe try to find some better sticking painters tape. Lowes had some outdoor printers take I believe that may work better.

    Also, when it prints the first layer some of my holes only print 3/4. Is that my slicer? I'm still using matter control.. until I can get the basics figured out.
     
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Never seen that happen, but I suppose anything is possible. The oil should get flashed away in the hotend. If you have oil coming out of the hotend then yes, too much oil.
     
  17. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    I'm going to print a few small blocks today and then if all goes well get some better tape and start a big one tonight. Any suggestions on bed temp? Can't figure out what would be best. I don't know how I got my first ones to stick to the bed without tape and not lift up. They were only 20% infill tho.

    Just went home for lunch to a print that was sticking good when I left but came up. Started another one without oil and it misfed on the second layer.. One step forward 3 steps back..
     
  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    For PLA I have never used more than 50 C on the bed and frankly, cold bed works too.
    But i prefer to use a warm bed myself :)
     
  19. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    Got home and my tensioner bracket was snapped in two. Switched it out with my other printer so i can continue with the complete failures... I just realized one of my z axis limit switches was turned around 360 degrees, switched that around and i have a print sticking right now. I adjusted my z height to .85mm which seems low but maybe its because of the z switch being turned, No idea. hopefully this thing doesn't end up at the bottom of my stairs tonight. I have a TON of work i don't want to send out to someone else and i'm supposed to go out of town this weekend.. Thanks again for all the help guys.
     
  20. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    Ok so as I sit here and watch my prints to make sure its working I'm wondering, do I need to worry about filament getting built up on my nozzle? Is there any way to prevent it if so?
     

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