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E3D v6 Information, Installation Guides, and Review

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Mike Kelly, Oct 23, 2014.

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  1. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That is a J-Head, not sure.
     
  2. max longstaff

    max longstaff Member

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    after speaking to someone at e3d about getting the wrong print head they gave me £25 store credit better than nothing I guess
     
  3. Zen

    Zen Member

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    Question, just got an e3d and it cam with the blue 25w 12v heater. Is that normal? if so what change if any do I need to make to the firmware with regards to the new thermistor? Assuming none, but I have made myself a donkey more than once by assuming. Shouldn't it come with the 40w heater? ordered from an authorized reseller.
     
  4. Zen

    Zen Member

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    Ok, maybe stupid, but why do you need to change out the heater? Yes the hex heater is slightly smaller in dimension, but it still clamps for full contact. Why not just swap them over from Hex to e3d?

    Thanks.
     
    #184 Zen, May 1, 2015
    Last edited: May 1, 2015
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The hexagon heater is 35w, the E3D 40w

    Your call
     
  6. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    So worst case scenario is it'd take some small calculable amount of time longer to heat up?

    Shoot, when mine comes in I may just hold on to the new heater to replace the old one if it ever messes up for whatever reason as a spare part in that case.
     
  7. Zen

    Zen Member

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    Update at least from where I ordered they are now shipping with a 25w heater
     
  8. Stephen Capistron

    Stephen Capistron Active Member

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    There are PID values in the firmware that control the rate of heating. These are tuned to optimize a rapid heat up time with minimal overshoot. Changing the wattage of the heater will change the behavior. Going to a lower wattage heater should only make it take longer to heat up. If you were to just drop in a higher wattage one you will likely experience a good amount of overshoot.
     
  9. Zen

    Zen Member

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    running the pid autotune to keep that from happening per Mike
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It is not a huge deal to just replace the heater core as well, but again, your call.
    It is directly wired back to the RAMPS.
     
  11. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Correct the E3Dv6 includes a 40W heater while the hexagon ships with a 25W (not 35w). The only difference is the heated will take a bit longer so if you're fine with waiting there's not much reason to upgrade.

    Running the PID Autotune is always a good idea.
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yup. My bad.

    It is enough less that you might want to use the E3D one, but that is (as said) your call. Electrically and mechanically it will work.
     
  13. Zen

    Zen Member

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    Going with the hex heater(35) as it is a higher wattage than what they are sending with the E3d(25) now. They are now shipping E3d with a 25w heater. NOT 40w. So
    Hex = 35w heater from robo3d
    E3d = 25w heater from filistruder
    as they are shipping now.
    clear as mud for everybody :)
     
  14. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Where did you see that filastruder was shipping with less than a 40W heater? Also I don't know where this 35W number came from, I've only ever seen 25w or 40W

    Are they coming with a blue heater now? Looks to me like only the E3D Lite6 comes with the 25W.
     
  15. Zen

    Zen Member

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    Sorry 30w for the Hex. That is what it states on several sites for the hexagon kit. Yes it is shipping with the blue heater now and it ohm'd out to the 25w version and was confirmed by filastruder CS
     
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The E3D v5 -> 12v 40W Heater Cartridge
    The E3D v6 -> 12v or 24v 25W Heater Cartridge

    So, yes it is different.

    This is from their BOM (hard to find, but is on their site) for each of them.
    Mine is the v5 and I did not realize they had changed it that much for the later model.
     
  17. elmoret

    elmoret Filastruder

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    All E3D products currently ship with 25 watt heaters by default, whether purchased from E3D or elsewhere. This change was made fairly recently, and not everyone has updated their website. (I was guilty of this, now corrected).

    A 25 watt heater is a more appropriate size for a hotend. If a 40 watt heater is given full power such as if the firmware freezes or MOSFET fails, it will happily get up over 500C which is dangerous. Additionally, a 40w heater is harder on the electronics and power supply. For a long time 40 watt heaters were the only available size so hotend manufacturers used them, but a 25 watt heater is more appropriate and will still get over 300C, which is more than the thermistor can handle in the first place.
     
  18. max longstaff

    max longstaff Member

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    all is well with new print head :) except for now nothing sticks well to the printbed im using hairspray and heated bed at 70

    - The printer picks up some of the filament and drags it creating gaps in the print, im trying to print a rectangle with words cut out but it pulls the words around creating a mess
     
    #198 max longstaff, May 2, 2015
    Last edited: May 2, 2015
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I agree it is a good change for the norm, but I use a thermocouple and have had occasion to go above 300C :)

    If you do need that the 40w heater cores are widely available and the issues associated with that upgrade is on the user (not E3D).
    Their down-stepping them to 25w makes perfect sense.
     
  20. Jacobvs

    Jacobvs New Member

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    I have been looking at previous posts on the installation and build of the V6 extruder, but I can't seem to find out which model of the E3D V6 to buy. I would like to have the tube that was discussed in other topics inside the extruder, to help with printing flexible filaments, but I can't figure out whether to get the direct V6 (will it have the tube?) or do I need the bowden version? Also, I'm assuming that the Robo will accept the 12v model and that I won't need the 24v.
    Thanks for any help
     
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