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E3D v6 Information, Installation Guides, and Review

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Mike Kelly, Oct 23, 2014.

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  1. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Awesome!
     
    #241 mark tomlinson, Jun 6, 2015
  2. Chrisinnewark

    Chrisinnewark Member

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    Please forgive me for being a little behind the time here with this question but I'm hoping that someone can help me with instructions for replacing my Hotend on my Robo3D with the E3D v5 Hotend.
    I got my Robo quite a while ago now and right off the bat I had issues with the factory fitted Hotend jamming. I'd seen YouTube videos previously explaining that the E3D v5 was the best fix so I bought one. Not too long after, my Hotend jammed and I was unable to unjam it but I was always daunted to try and replace the Hotend as I didn't (and still don't) know exactly what I'm doing. Not wanting to ruin my printer I'm ashamed to say that it got put in a corner and left to gatter dust (literally).
    I want to get it back up and running now though as my passion for 3D printing has been reignited after I got a second, much cheaper and simpler 3D printer from a Kickstarter campaign.
    A Google search found this thread for the installation of the v6 Hotend.
    http://community.robo3d.com/index.p...ormation-installation-guides-and-review.3407/
    I'm wondering if there are any other similar threads that anyone knows about or any 'idiot' guides to installing a v5 Hotend so I can fit it with confidence?
    Many thanks and fingers crossed.
     
    #242 Chrisinnewark, Jun 18, 2015
  3. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    I merged the thread since your question didn't need it's own thread.

    Just follow the guide in the OP. You just don't need to do any of the drilling parts for the V5. The rest is basically the same.
     
    #243 Mike Kelly, Jun 18, 2015
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    There is not a huge difference between the installation of v5 and v6.
    The one difference with the hotend is that the v6 has a PTFE tube and the v5 does not.
    The drilling as @Mike Kelly mentions is another difference...
     
    #244 mark tomlinson, Jun 18, 2015
  5. Chrisinnewark

    Chrisinnewark Member

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    Brill! Thanks for responding.
     
    #245 Chrisinnewark, Jun 18, 2015
  6. Chrisinnewark

    Chrisinnewark Member

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    Quick question. In your initial post you mention that the fan for the hotend is best connected to the ports on the board as its fuse protected. What sort of connectors would I need to get to do this? Are they the JST connectors mentioned earlier in your instructions?
     
    #246 Chrisinnewark, Jun 28, 2015
  7. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Those would work. Or some kind of dupont connector. I'd personally just plug them into the screw terminal
     
    #247 Mike Kelly, Jun 28, 2015
  8. Connor

    Connor New Member

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    Hello,

    I recently upgraded to an E3D V6 hot end. I am experiencing problems with my thermisters, where on the LCD both read 0 degrees C. At the bottom I also get a Mintemp error. I have updated firmware, and checked all wiring, and I cannot find the issue. I have even tested each thermister individually. When I plug in the bed thermister it instantly goes to 7c, then slowly drops back to 0. Right when I turn the printer on, each thermister reads values >100c then change to 0. Could this be an issue with my board? I am very stumped.
     
    #248 Connor, Jul 3, 2015
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It can only be the RAMPS or the thermistor or the wiring.

    Given that it reads right initially I would tend to suspect the wiring or the thermistor. If you have a multimeter, check the resistance of the thermistor where it connects to the RAMPS (read the wire and thermistor resistance) and see if it is around 100k (and does it stay there).
     
    #249 mark tomlinson, Jul 3, 2015
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    For what it is worth a short-circuit on the thermistor will read zero degrees... sanity check your wiring.
     
    #250 mark tomlinson, Jul 3, 2015
  11. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Best way to know is measure the resistance across the thermistor. Should be around 100k.
     
    #251 Mike Kelly, Jul 7, 2015
  12. YellowMenace

    YellowMenace New Member

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    I admit I haven't read this entire thread so maybe this is already posted, but here is a link to a video that would have been helpful when I installed my E3Dv6.
     
    #252 YellowMenace, Jul 9, 2015
  13. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Got my e3d hotened just read the whole thread but wanted to make sure.

    I would like to use the stock connectors and wiring is that ok? I already have a huge bag of JST waterproof connectors in my RC Car box of stuff. Can I just cut the fan wires, the heater wires and solder stock connectors on and plug straight in?

    Or do I need to rewire the whole thing with the included wires to the robo's board underneath?

    Also I bought the stud thermistor as well and its got a different connector on it.. can i just whack that off and put the kind that stock was.. this way all my wiring stays the same and all my plugs are the same?
     
    #253 KTMDirtFace, Jul 11, 2015
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Unless you have the volcano you are fine re-using the heater-core wiring since the E3D default heater is smaller than the Hexagon.
    The other wires (thermistor and fan) are not a problem, re-use them.

    If you upgrade to the volcano at some stage, run the new heater core and wires then.
     
    #254 mark tomlinson, Jul 11, 2015
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  15. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Oh I plan to use the heater core that came with it but can i just snip the wires and solder a JST connector so i don't have to run it clear down to the control board?

    If Not I guess i'll print one of those wire chain deals( on my other printer ) and just rewire this whole thing. as another upgrade.

    Also.

    I don 't have any Metric Drill Bits. so nothing 4.2 mm.

    I have a 5/32 = 0.15625in = 3.96875mm
    Or I have 11/64 - 0.17187 in = 4.36563 mm. ( thinking this should be close enough )

    Lol I don't even know where to buy metric drill bits. Im in the USA and I HATE our measuring system lol.
     
    #255 KTMDirtFace, Jul 12, 2015
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2015
  16. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    They don't sell metric bits that size anyways. 4.2mm is more of a target point than an actual requirement.

    4.3 is fine. Really you just want a bit bigger than 4mm. I used a #19 drill bit since my kit had them
     
    #256 Mike Kelly, Jul 13, 2015
  17. jbigler1986

    jbigler1986 Active Member

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    i wouldn't go to big though. I like the ptfe to be snug.
     
    #257 jbigler1986, Jul 13, 2015
  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The heater core I would suggest running as a single wire, no connectors.
    Simply because it pulls a decent amount of current.
     
    #258 mark tomlinson, Jul 13, 2015
  19. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    The blue wire/25w is safe to use on a connector. The 40w is pushing the capacity of the connector. 3A rated to 3.3A max pull.
     
    #259 Mike Kelly, Jul 13, 2015
  20. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, sorry havn't had time to mess with it latley. So I should run the included heater core and wires all the way to the board and skip the connectors on that for best option?
     
    #260 KTMDirtFace, Jul 17, 2015
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