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E3D v6 Information, Installation Guides, and Review

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Mike Kelly, Oct 23, 2014.

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  1. oldfarmhand

    oldfarmhand Member

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    I own a Robo R1 printer that i purchased september 2015 I have 1,882 hours of print time on it
    Im sorry that i have to ask this ( and I call myself reading all of the post in this group ) but here it goes. To do a e3d v 6 upgrade and using the original robo r1 thermistor and the original heater ( AND HERE IT GOES ) do i still need to do a firmware upgrade I have read it both ways do it and then don't do it , if i do a firmware upgrade and i do a software update that robo offers how will that affect the firmware upgrade an exactly what is the firmware upgrade for? and also why do some people have problems with printing in air after the first layer and some don't ?
    I love my robo r1 but I have tried to print with ninjaflex and the wood/pla filament and both jamup that is the only reason that i'm going to change to a e4d v6
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If you are happy with the max temperature settings on your Robo, no firmware update needed if you re-use the thermistor.
    Or, my suggestion, use a MetalStud thermistor during the upgrade which is the same thermistor type as stock,
     
  3. JoshYourITGuy

    JoshYourITGuy Active Member

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    Are you worried about the firmware upgrade? (just asking) It is actually quite easy to do, with very litle risk. You can always revert back to the stock firmware (you can download the stock firmware from the site)

    It is better to use the new thermistor and heater. The new thermistor is better quality and holds in place much better. If you buy the screw in stud type, you dont have to change the firmware. The firmware change modifies 2 things, the thermistor type, and the max temp. The E3D is all metal, so you can print things like Nylon which re4quire hotter temps, hotter than the teflon tupe in the hexagon heatbreak can handle.

    There are also some great tweaks you can do to the firmware, like Marquis Johnson's faster autoleveling.

    The "printing in air" issue is due to the new nozzle being higher than the stock, all you have to do is find your Z-offset and either add it into the firmware or into your slicer.
     
  4. oldfarmhand

    oldfarmhand Member

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    Wow some fast replies Thanks! and you're right Im afraid that I will screw it up right now my Z axis is 0.06 so I don't much room to adjust it down. If I do the upgrade i'm not sure on how to adjust it after the upgrade. For me auto leveling on the r1 is great so now i worry that i might screw that up too. what do you meen add it to the firmware or into your slicer It sounds like that i will mess up a good abs printing machine
     
  5. JoshYourITGuy

    JoshYourITGuy Active Member

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    What slicer do you use? Mattercontrol? Cura? Simplify3D? Each should have a spot to add custom starting G-Code or a spot to manually adjust the Z-offset.
    In Simplify3D it was as easy as adding the M565 Z-0.65 (this number is dependent on your machine)line in my starting script to lift the head a bit more. (you can also permanently store this in the firmware once you figure out what offset to use)

    Also, another firmware tweak is enabling Z-Babystepping. If you have an LCD screen (easy as cake to install and well worth it) it allows you to adjust the Z-offset on the fly. I use Babystepping to tweak it a bit while it is printing the skirts to make sure the offset is perfect.
     
  6. oldfarmhand

    oldfarmhand Member

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    How would i get around the print air problem with new E3D
     
  7. oldfarmhand

    oldfarmhand Member

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    I use matter control
     
  8. JoshYourITGuy

    JoshYourITGuy Active Member

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  9. oldfarmhand

    oldfarmhand Member

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    so after reading the article all i have to do change the value to a negative value until i get a good first layer print and then after that all of the rest of the layers will be right. Am i reading that right?
    Thank you for your help And I do have one other question :) Is there a way to turn the bed heater off 5 minutes before the print is finished ? this would save me 6 minutes in between prints it takes 11 minutes to cool down enough to take it off without leaving any marks on the parts
     
  10. JoshYourITGuy

    JoshYourITGuy Active Member

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    You read that right :)

    As for the heater, you would need to switch over to Cura (free),or Simplify3D ($, but well worth it)
    In Cura, you could use Tweak-At-Z and shut the heater off at X height (maybe a few layers before the end)
    In Simplify3D you could create a second process, have Process 1 stop at X height, Have Process 2 start at X height without heat.
     
  11. oldfarmhand

    oldfarmhand Member

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    Now one last thing for now i promise
    If I did the firmware upgrade for the e3d would make all of the appropriate change or would I still have to make more changes, Im talking about the heat and the thermistor not the z axis
     
  12. JoshYourITGuy

    JoshYourITGuy Active Member

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    Nope, just one change for the thermistor type and one change for the max heat. Then you are done in the firmware (unless you want to tweak other things)

    Once you make those changes, E3D suggests manually setting your extruder to a higher temp (I think 275, but dont quote me on that, it is in this guide or their guide) and with it hot, retighten the nozzle.
     
  13. Drakeh

    Drakeh New Member

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    Hey guys, so I've been using my E3D V6 on my Robo 3D for quite a while now and I love it, but recently my thermistor came out of the hotend and I ended up having to buy a completely new hotend. Well I got it all wired up and install and tried to heat it up. It starts out fine but once it reaches around 110 degrees it slows down a lot. Eventually it just peaks at between 117 and 119 degrees. I tried taking it out and re-tightening the heater cartridge but that didn't help. I'm really not sure what I should do at this point. I'm not sure if it's that the heater cartridge isn't heating it up enough, or if it's the thermistor measuring the incorrect temp. Any help would be awesome!
     
  14. JoshYourITGuy

    JoshYourITGuy Active Member

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    Questions:
    By "thermistor came out" do you mean the wires broke?

    Why did you need a complete hotend instead of just a replacement thermistor?

    Was one of these a clone and the other legit? (not knocking you, just trying to see if maybe you got a different type of thermistor)
    I had a clone that the cartridge didnt fit snugly into the block, would only heat up to about 180 then after about 20 minutes it fried the cartridge, I gave up and bought a real E3D.

    Any chance you have a wire not in tight enough?
     
    mark tomlinson and Geof like this.
  15. Drakeh

    Drakeh New Member

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    What I mean by my thermistor came out is that the little wires for the thermistor pulled out of the little ferrules that hold them to the other wires. I tried just reordering another thermistor but every time I tried to fasten it to the heater block the fiberglass sleeves that came with it would get pulled off of the wires rendering it useless. The reason I needed to buy another hotend completely is because I ended up ordering E3D's new thermistor, which wasn't compatible with the older heater block. All of the parts are legit as I ordered them directly from E3D. I'll try checking all of the wires though. If you have any other thoughts on why this is happening let me know. Thanks for your help!
     
  16. JoshYourITGuy

    JoshYourITGuy Active Member

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    Double check the thermistor and make sure you have the correct one selected in your firmware (E3D V6 should be Thermistor Type 5)
    If you are still struggling with it, buy their screw-in stud type thermistor, then change thermistor type to 1, screw-in is less likely to screw-up.
     
  17. Drakeh

    Drakeh New Member

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    Hey Josh,

    Thanks again for your help. Where exactly in the firmware would I find the thermistor type? I tried to search for thermistor but it came up with a bunch of different spots so I'm not sure exactly where it is that I would have to make sure it's correct.
     
  18. Drakeh

    Drakeh New Member

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    Not sure if this makes a difference but I noticed that the first time I purchased my E3D I got a 12v heater cartridge and this time it seems I ordered a 24v. I don't know that much about electrical stuff so I'm not sure if that would actually cause a problem.
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Frankly when doing the E3D one should just use the MetalStud thermistor and call it soup :)
     
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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