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Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Droid, May 27, 2015.
Yes. Please private message me.
Hey guys, please checkout my post here for more information: http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/lead-screw-upgrade-kit.6244/
I did the swap yesterday, first runs are printing beautifully so far.
Actually, scratch that last post completely. figured I would test a longer print, the old, close together z artifacts are indeed gone.
Only to be replaced with NEW wider ribbing. Yay.....
Received and mostly installed. I did a second upgrade at the same time that is holding things up.
It looks like the only purpose for the black clips is for the end stops? Is there a secondary purpose because the nuts fit the assembly although maybe a touch loose.
Update*** One of the delrin nuts on my amazon screws has become severely worn, totally jacking with the auto level.. I've ordered the Robos....
I'm reviving an old thread but I'm wondering if this is a worthwhile mod considering my 3DR1 is running flawlessly.
If you don't have issues don't change anything
What he said... x100
FYI: Link in original post is broken.
The recent main website update probably broke anything linking to it.
I just got my lead screw upgrade kit. Looking at the instructions, I noticed my z-axis end stop isn't mounted like the one in the picture. Mine is still on the bottom of the smooth rod. Can I just pull off the clip thing, put longer wires on it, and re-mount it to the blocks that come with the upgrade kit?
Put another in parallel on the opposite side and you can use the autoleveling firmware.
That is what I did.
Can you explain how I wire them in parallel? Do I just solder the wires together and connect them to the same spot on the board (in the end stops section) that it is in currently? Or do I connect them each separately?
Also, do you know what the connector parts are? I check Radio Shack but they don't have them. I'm not sure exactly what to order off of Amazon.
Are these the right parts? I ordered the 3 pack of switches from Robo.
The switches are normally closed (NC) and when the carriage is sitting on them they are OPEN. When the carriage starts to lift off of them (extruder is touching the bed) then one or both of them will CLOSE. So as soon as either of them closes that sends the signal to the RAMPS that the extruder is on the bed.
So, in summary
The stock wiring is the switches are in parallel. The Switches are wired to the NC pin creating a normally open circuit as the switches are always engaged. The home looks for a closed circuit. Either switch closing will work.
Land it on the exact same spot on the RAMPS board. I just put new wires on the switches adn then connected them to the existing wire back to the RAMPS.
Just make sure you leave the wires long enough for the full travel of the Z axis up since the switches go along for the ride.
So I finally got all the wiring done (fyi for anyone else who runs into this, the connectors are 2.8mm female spade connectors). Could you help me figure out what firmware to use now? Right now i have Marlin_3_14_14 (I assume that's the date). I am using the Smart LCD XXL controller.
The one labeled Lead Screw Upgrade on the firmware download page.
(or do you not know that link?)