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Mods and experiences with our Robo 3D R1+ (1st Printer)

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Curtis Wolfe, Feb 27, 2017.

  1. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @Curtis Wolfe respectfully many of the latest questions and posts have nothing to do with Mods or Upgrades, please start new threads for those types of questions in the proper sub-forums as all mod or upgrade information gets lost and does not help the community as a whole.
     
  2. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    True, Sorry about that.
     
  3. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    I haven't had much to talk about. Since I corrected the connector on the RAMPS board our Robo has been running like a charm.

    The next mod I'm going to do is add an independent MOSFET for the heatbed.

    I'm thinking this one. I'm going to order a couple.

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WV7FBCV?psc=1
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Should work fine.
     
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  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    But... Start a new thread for that mod

    Sent from my BNTV450 using Tapatalk
     
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  6. Thomas E. Foss

    Thomas E. Foss New Member

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    I bought the OSOYOO kit but it shows no location for the parts fan connection. The schematic shows fan connections but the board layout does not. There is a lot of detail for unimportant stuff but not much for the important stuff.
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  8. Thomas E. Foss

    Thomas E. Foss New Member

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    Thank you for responding, the D9 connector on the replacement board is a constant 12 volt supply (board layout shows it as the connection for a second extruder) but on my Robo R1+ the parts fan is controlled by the MC program and if it is connected to the constant supply that will not be possible. Is it okay to run "balls to the wall" all the time? I am returning this kit and buying just the replacement RAMPS board from PartsBuilt, it looks like the original so fewer chances to hook something up incorrectly. Thanks!
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Marlin does NOT have D9 on all the time if you are using the R1+ firmware.
    It uses it under slicer control for power to the parts cooling fan.

    So if you have power on to that connector at all times... something is wrong.
     
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  10. Thomas E. Foss

    Thomas E. Foss New Member

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    My mistake, I just thought by schematic it was a constant supply. Do you have any positive experience with this kit from Amazon:
    OSOYOO 3D Printer Kit with RAMPS 1.4 Controller?
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I can't say that I have used that exact kit, but I have used two or three different ones from Amazon without any problems. They each came with the entire electronics needed (Arduino, RAMPS, stepper drivers and even an LCD)
     
  12. Thomas E. Foss

    Thomas E. Foss New Member

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    Okay, thank you for your information! I will take everything back out of the packaging and hook it all back up. I will reply with results when complete. (I used to be intelligent but I fear those brain cells departed with my hair follicles) Thanks again!
     
  13. Thomas E. Foss

    Thomas E. Foss New Member

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    PS, I used to work with a Clay Tomlinson at Litton Data Systems in Colorado Springs, CO.
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Good luck. Just pay attention and you should be fine. None of the electronics are super sensitive (to like static electricity) so just be methodical and you should be fine. If you have issues we can help.
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Although I have spent a bit of time in Colorado Springs -- AFAIK I have no relation to that branch of the Tomlinsons :)
     
  16. Thomas E. Foss

    Thomas E. Foss New Member

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    There seem to be a lot of variations of the firmware for the Arduino board (I installed the E3D V6 hotend kit which started all of this), that show changes to the configuration.h file, is there one way that works best for the Robo R1+? Has anyone uploaded one that works so that my printer doesn't transform into a Decepticon...
     
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    There are some versions uploaded to different threads here that account for the E3Dv6. However none of that matters for this RAMPS board, the configuration is identical to the stock one. If you want to bump up to a slightly later version of the firmware then one of these threads may help:

    http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/marlin-1-1-9-release-for-robo-r1.22329/

    http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/marlin-2-0-x-release-for-robo-r1.22898/

    I am still using stock :) Only changes I made were for the E3Dv6 (which is a single line edit).

    I would suggest reading the entire threads above before downloading anything. That way you know which posts have the latest versions of the files linked
     
  18. Thomas E. Foss

    Thomas E. Foss New Member

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    Okay, did all that. Hopefully it doesn't grind when it starts up again. The last time I had it on it tried to push the heatbed past the endstop on the Y axis during the home operation. All other axis seem to know where they end at but Y wants to go a lot further.forward.
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If it was grinding against the HOME for the Y then your Y limit switch is not working correctly -- that is not a firmware problem.
    If it grinds against the Y MAX limit then THAT is bad firmware :) The only position sensors on the printer are the HOME switches -- when you home the printer it drives them towards home until the switches trip for each axis.

    The X/Y/Z max positions are all math...
     
  20. Thomas E. Foss

    Thomas E. Foss New Member

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    Okay, the Y limit switch activates when the heat bed travels towards the back of the printer (moves away from you), and the extruder is trying to go beyond the heat bed limits at the left rear corner when the heat bed is coming towards you so no limit switch is in play at that point. So the MAX limit positions are the positions that are away from the limit switches? The printer will not move beyond the MAX position in the X or Z axis just the Y axis. I never took off the drive belts but there may be a starting position for the stepper motors that I changed somehow? How would I reteach it the math so it knows where the end of the heat bed is? It stops just fine when the Y axis limit switch comes into play.
     

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