Solved PLA delamination/layers not binding(infill and bottom layers)

Yeah, I don't have the best camera. Here is another. Also, in response to mark, I have a R1 not a R1+
This pictures still a little bad. I will get you a better one later today. I have to give you a link because my internet is slow, and I get an error saying the file is too large for the server to process.

Thanks
http://tinypic.com/r/2mqp84o/9

 

Well, it looks like the way to test it would be to slow everything down. I can't however, because whenever I do that, I have the same problem as earlier, my layers not connecting well.

Are there any other ways to test if I have ribbing other than making an upgrade and hoping it makes it better?

Thanks,
Eric

 

This could also have to do with the Acceleration Settings in the firmware. The Robo comes stock with WAY too high of Acceleration settings. I had a similar issue with my R1 +PLUS. It was basically overshooting every corner. When I lowered my Acceleration setting and adjusted the XY Jerk setting, it's basically gone and now I'm getting excellent prints!

Also I use S3D (well worth the $150) and typically only print with a default speed of 50mm/s and with PLA at 210C and 55C. First Layer and Outline are decreased to roughly 30% of default speed. Infill overlap I have always used 15% and had no issues.

Hopefully something in there helps! If you have not already, you need to Calibrate your Extruder, this can fix a lot of issues.

For your medallion, do you have a STEP/IGS file or something I can open in SolidWorks to look at it? I can then save as a STL for you and it will be closer to an actual circle, even though it can't be, rather than a multi-sided figure (unless its supposed to be like that?).

 

So I should flash the updated firmware to the printer? Is there any way for me to mess that up?
Thanks for offering about the solidworks, but it doesn't really matter if its circle or not. I take this model, which I designed, then I print it with the X reversed so I can stamp it into clay and make medallions with the same writing and font on each one. It is really just the face of the print that matters, but it worries me that the sides mess up like this.
Thanks,
Eric

 

Not a problem. I could have checked for errors in the model as well.

You don't need to flash updated firmware. You need to get a copy of the firmware your Robo came with and update the settings in the Configuration.h file around Line 444. If you search for "Acceleration" you will find lots of threads talking about changing these settings and how to flash the firmware.

Note: If you are not comfortable doing this, make sure you take your time and learn, a lot can go wrong within the firmware. Do your homework before editing the firmware.

I would try other solutions before going this route and editing your firmware.

You can also change these settings using EEPROM as a temporary test. Just remember the settings you change this way are not permanent. Do this first before touching the firmware to see if it helps. I don't remember the M code to modify these setting though. Someone should be able to chime in and let you know.

 

I''m somehow back to the original problem. I still have my 190c ext temp, and as far as I can tell all the settings are the same. The print I'm using to test(a filament holder for the top of the printer) the sides are once again coming apart. I have recreated the solution of before, speeding it up, and that helps a little.

Could it be a problem with the infill? The bottom and top shells are fine, but once it starts printing the infill, the shell starts to mess up. I'll post a picture or two soon.
thanks,
eric

 

Here is a picture of the problem I am having. This looks marginally better than a few prior prints. I have run out of my black filament, and I am now using Hatchbox 1.75 mm silver PLA. I have changed the extruder temp to 200c, the infill, outer shell and inner shell are at 60mm/s, the first layer is at 30mm/s and the top/bottom shells are at 45mm/s.
Any ideas?

 

Fixed. I pressed post before it uploaded. My bad.

 

The fan turns on at 1mm(although I have a print going with no fan, looks like the problem is still there though)
Bed temp is 65c
I use hairspray as my adhesive. Lightly applied after every print, cleaned every 5-10 prints.
As I said earlier in this post, I have a print going right now with no fan. There looks to be a rather large gap in the outer shell around 2-3mm up, then the rest of the shell looks almost perfect. I'll post pics when its done. Shouldn't be long now.

Thanks,
Eric