Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Software' started by John Rygg, Dec 6, 2013.
OK, here we go!
When I saw you cleaned your printer bed with India Pale Ale I laughed.
Well, for starters...If this is ABS your print temperatures look suspiciously low.
Extruder -> 195
Now for me that is too cold for ABS (even with a Volcano).
You should create different profiles for each material you normally use (and really each material and each set of parameters).
-ABS, 0.4 nozzle
-ABS, 0.3 nozzle
etc. As well as any other groups of settings you normally need.
Make sure that in the G-Code tab your Z offset is set correctly too. If your starting too high, the filament won't stick and the first layer will look like crap. MatterControl defaults to (-0.1mm), and this may be why it works with MC and not S3D.
That's odd because I have ABS set to print at 235 and 80. Not sure why that profile shows otherwise except maybe I sent the wrong one. Check this one out and let me know if this looks right.
225 in this one.
You might just want to create a new profile
Since I sent the first profile, I've been adjusting the z-offset lower by 0.05 increments. I must be making some progress because the filament isn't going wacky. It's actually laying down now, but during the last print, the ABS warped and the print was ruined - sigh. I'm printing on PEI at 80 so I just dropped the offset again to -0.35 and see if that makes a difference, along with cleaning the PEI with a multi-surface cleaner and then IPA (lol). I also checked the hobbled bolt and it was a tad nasty, so I cleaned it out too.
I started printing ABS at 230 and ended up upping that to 240 and am getting better quality all the way around.
OK, my problem is solved. Z Offset was the issue. I had to set it to -0.35 and once I did that, my perimeters were closed and the print is actually sticking to the PEI. Now I can get back to my >300 hours of printing for my stormtrooper E11 blaster. You can see I bought this thing for useful and practical items.
Thanks for all the help!
Well I spoke too soon. An 18 hour print failed about 85% into it due to warping of the ABS. Tried a shorter print and it did the same. I don't think this is relevant to S3D, so I will go to the PEI thread and see if anyone is having the same problem. Grrr...
Sounds like a abs problem.... I gave that junk up lol
ABS is the worst filament in terms of warp-and-curl. It desperately needs a heated chamber for environment control if you are printing anything of size that can't tolerate the potential for warp. Large flat objects are the worst.
I always suggest making sure you really need ABS (there are a lot of other choices with better thermal and strength properties).
I've nothing but bad things about ABS. Hence all the comments above. PLA is better IMO. I haven't tried any exotics yet. I have to buy a new hot end from Printed Solid, good company to buy from. E3D is being ordered tomorrow!
I really like printing ABS. Better strength than PLA, I can put it in my car, and lacks that shiny surface. I know Mark and others have championed other materials that is like to try out.
Yea, if it were only PLA vs. ABS then ABS wins on all of those fronts.
Just for temp deflection though I like things like BluPrint or Alloy 910 (Alloy 910 beats on strength as well).
There are so many other choices that I just never need ABS.
I stopped using ABS and started using PETG.
I was looking to see if the Simplify3d software would auto level the r1+ like mattercontrol does?
I haven't used MC in ages but Auto-bed-leveling is actually built into the Marlin firmware that Robo uses. In the SCRIPTS tab of S3D you can add a G28 command to home X, Y and Z axes. then you can add a G29 command to perform the auto-level routine. Both would be in the startup section. The result would be that those codes would appear in every sliced gcode file saved from S3D. They would be executed before actual printing would commence.
Just purchased the Simplify3D, as mentioned above, the hardware actually does the leveling. I will mention that my printing was vastly improved by switching to Simplify3D, also being able to see all the layers helped me figure out some weird printing that was going on.