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Simplify 3d

Discussion in 'Software' started by John Rygg, Dec 6, 2013.

  1. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    4.0.0 might be right at the shop, cant recall which version (I know its 4) I have open lol. yes I typically enable that. The print quality issue was the perimeters and top/bottoms were set to 100% which is to much for pretty stuff at 60 mm/s on a R1+ typically. (the R1+ that use to run that profile is very well tuned mechanically :D )
     
  2. Avrution

    Avrution Member

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    I noticed you went back to the defaults on the extrusion multiplier and width. Do you actually tune your flowrate for S3D or just stick with the .90?
     
  3. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Extrusion multiplier I typically run is 98% with the e steps tuned (i like a little bit of under extrusion- helps keep it pretty ;) )the width I change based on the model/what I'm printing with.

    .90 would indicate that your over extruding 10% which means you need to calibrate your e steps for the "technically correct way"

    everybody runs their machines differently though- no right and wrong way IMO :D even if I gave you my current profile it wouldn't be "perfect" for your machine, enviroment, materials and models. But a good starting point. Tune away my friend!
     
  4. Avrution

    Avrution Member

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    I've been pretty happy with my prints, but I haven't touched any options outside of the basics. I'm trying to work on my bridging performance and fine tuning the details. Doing an extrusion/flow rate test right now.
     
  5. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    for briding I reduce the extrusion multiplier (less material stretched further) and increase cooling/speeds. Its all little tweaks in the "bridging settings" and you'll find a happy spot. Some of it is just unavoidable but can get darn near perfect :D
     
  6. KellywithaY

    KellywithaY New Member

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    I'm attempting to auto-level my Robo3D R1+ with Simplify3D. I see many posters here refer to the paper test (meaning a piece of paper slides just under the nozzle). For the life of me I do not understand the directions on Simplify3D's website:
    What springs? The only manual way I know to raise and lower the z axis is by twisting the threaded screw tower things.

    Any help is appreciated!

    kp
     
  7. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Hi Kelly,

    Ignore simplify 3Ds instructions. Its hot garbage when concerned to our R1+ machines. Thats a "generic at best" instruction and doesn't apply as we dont have adjustments we can make other than mechanically leveling the machine.
     
  8. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    It should be noted here that just because the printer being discussed doesn't have the adjustment being mentioned, does not mean that the instructions are hot garbage.

    A more helpful reference may be to point people to this article because it is pretty much the limit of what you can do with the materials provided by Robo with the printer.

    https://help.robo3d.com/hc/en-us/articles/115002626312-Misaligned-R1-Z-axis

    EDIT:

    It is true that Simplify3D has absolutely nothing to do with bed leveling on the R1+, though. That wizard and the related instructions are for use with manual bed leveling systems (usually Prusa i3 knock-offs and Ultimaker-reminiscent knock-offs).
     
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  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    4.1.2 released.
     
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  10. Susanne Adam

    Susanne Adam New Member

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    It is amazing.
     
  11. Avrution

    Avrution Member

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    Seems I'm still having issues when it comes to finer detail prints - anyone mind sharing their profile (assuming you don't use the stock one) so I can see what settings might need to be tweaked?

    Just coming off a few really crap prints, but it has been so long since I messed with this printer I don't even know where to start.
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  13. Avrution

    Avrution Member

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    Thanks. I think speeds are where I might run into issues. I see one of your older ones you used 3000mm and then a newer file was back at the default 3600.

    The only other option that really varied was the retraction distance/vertical lift. I have no idea what those two settings really even control.
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Retraction distance is how far back it wants to pull the filament when it needs to retract for a move or a hop
    vertical lift is how high it will hop.
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The default numbers in Marlin for print speed have varied over the versions Robo released from stupid (10000) to less stupid (4000) and some in between :)

    3k-4k is about the max you can really expect for movement speeds from these steppers and belt gearing. If you want more precision on a printer, drop the move speed and acceleration numbers.
     
  16. Avrution

    Avrution Member

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    Sometimes, I think part of the issue ends up being the model. Hard to tell if it is that or just me, especially when others print things successfully. I seem to really run into issues when it comes to small screw holes and the like.

    I wish there was a way to select a part of the model and have the speeds slowed down just for that section, kind of like the variable setting wizard, but only for what is in a specific selection.
     
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You slice with multiple profiles and assign them to different areas of the model (or for different models if you have more than one on the bed)

    There are some limitations to this approach, but it works well.
     

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