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E3D PT100, how to install and configure

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by robert sanchez, Feb 29, 2016.

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  1. robert sanchez

    robert sanchez Active Member

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    What is the e3d pt100?
    It is a thermocouple replacement for the standard thermistor. IMG_7301[1].JPG
    The more important thing, is that it has great temperature sensitivity up to the 400°C and beyond, see picture "pt100 chart". PT100 CHART.jpg
    However, a thermocouple requires an additional circuit to hook it up, E3D has created an off the shelf solution http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D_PT100_Amplifier_Documentation
    This unit requires a new heater block with the additional port to slide the thermocouple cartridge into.

    The following is a picture of the volcano heater block for the pt100 volcano pt100 heater block.jpg

    The following is a picture of the e3d v6 heater block for the pt100 standard e3d v6.jpg

    Please note this is a thermocouple sheathed in a cylindrical metal body (pictures to come), so it us much more robust than normal.

    Where to buy the e3d pt100 kit (@Printed Solid):
    https://printedsolid.com/collections/accessories-and-upgrades/products/pt100-total-upgrade-kit
    Please note there are 3 parts. 1) the sensor, 2) the mini pcb board 3) the heater block for pt100 (make sure you get the correct one, for example if running a volcano)
    Printed Solid has done a great job bundling all 3 together, the only thing missing as of today (2/29/16) is the jumper wires. I have checked other sites and they are not grouping all the items together. @Printed Solid also has the hot end body to support the Volcano!

    Where to buy your wire jumpers, possible options:

    How to update the firmware for your E3D pt100:

    1) This assumes, you have already done an E3DV6 firmware upgrade, and have used the info from @Mike Kelly:
    http://community.robo3d.com/index.p...ormation-installation-guides-and-review.3407/

    2) If you do not have the arduino software: navigate to: http://arduino.cc/

    3) Download the software (see picture 1): PICTURE 1.jpg
    http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?attachments/download-program-jpg.5869

    4) Open the arduino program

    5) Go to file > open> navigate to the file you unzipped from mike and pick the file within it with the same name, see image (see picture 2) PICTURE 2.jpg

    6) Click on the Configuration.h tab

    7) Hold down “ctrl” and “f” to pull up the find window and type in “define temp_” (see picture 3) PICTURE 3.jpg

    8) Edit the line for #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 to the following (see picture 4): PICTURE 4.jpg

    #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 20 //robo 1 FOR STUD, 5 FOR E3DV6, 20 for pt100


    9) Navigate to the Pins.h tab (see picture 5) PICTURE 5.jpg


    10) Scroll down till you see

    /****************************************************************************************

    * Arduino Mega pin assignment

    *

    ****************************************************************************************/


    11) Keep scrolling till you find:

    #define TEMP_0_PIN 13 // ANALOG NUMBERING


    12) Now change the 13 to a 3 and notes if you like (see picture 6) PICTURE 6.jpg

    #define TEMP_0_PIN 3 // ANALOG NUMBERING 13 is original, 3 is for pt100


    13) Next, Save your work.


    14) Go to tools> board > arduino mega 2560 (see picture 7) PICTURE 7.jpg
    http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?attachments/board-setting-jpg.5871/

    15) you may have to check your comm port

    Things you will need to connect the hardware:
    3 single pole jumpers or one 3 pole jumper custom made. You can build your own or buy some prefabricated (SEE ABOVE)


    Where to connect for non R1+:
    See the ramps board diagram 800px-RAMPSPT100.jpg
    We will be utilizing the "AUX-1" section and the "5v, GND, & A3" pins that are circled.
    Using the reprap jumpers listed above, make the following connections to the ramps board:
    PT100 amplifier board front-1000x1000.png
    • A3 is an analog signal input, which we will connect to the pt100 amplifier board signal pin labeled "sig" (see prior picture)
    • 5v is the 5 volt line, which we will connect to the pt100 amplifier board "5v" pin (see prior picture)
    • GND is the ground line, which we will connect to the pt100 amplifier board 0v pin labeled Grnd (see prior picture)
    Here is an example of how to connect it up IMG_7305[1].JPG

    Where to connect for R1+
    OK, if you have an R1+ you will have to solder in a header to populate the AUX-1 missing pins. Once you solder in the missing pins you can follow the directions for the "Where to connect for non R1+"
    Here is one option of where to order the pins
    http://www.amazon.com/Single-Header...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
    You only need to solder in 3 pins in the area highlighted in the image:
    r1+.jpg
     
    #1 robert sanchez, Feb 29, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2016
    jim3Dbot, zolagg, Tom Finzel and 6 others like this.
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Excellent. I have been using an thermocouple on one printer for a while (before E3D even started selling the kits). For the higher temp materials they are a real necessity.
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  4. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    awesome! Thanks for sharing.

    One other important point about the pt100: The thermocouple element itself is in a metal rod, so it is super durable vs a stand alone bead thermocouple.
     
  5. robert sanchez

    robert sanchez Active Member

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    IMG_7319[1].JPG image.jpeg Ok got her running. image.jpeg
     
    #5 robert sanchez, Mar 5, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2016
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  6. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Great guide. I used this for setting up mine!
     
  7. regor

    regor Member

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    After setting up the firmware for the PT100 as stated above, do you have to include some type of a reference table for the thermocouple? Thought I saw that on some other 3d forum, not this one, where someone copied and pasted a table into the firmware. Would like to install a thermocouple from Print Solid, but wondering about what I have to do to get it done right, mainly because everything so far is working fine on my Robo R1. Just like to tinker and do that extra added gizmo!
     
  8. robert sanchez

    robert sanchez Active Member

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    Item #8 handles it. It's already programmed in.
     
  9. Joe Smith

    Joe Smith New Member

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    Perfect, just got my kit in from PrintedSolid and this tells me everything I needed to know. I'll post an update once the upgrade is complete.
     
  10. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Has anyone done this to the R1+Plus? Mine has no available auxiliary pins of any kind.

    There are holes where the AUX1 section would be, but no pins to actually connect anything with.
     
  11. robert sanchez

    robert sanchez Active Member

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    Hi @Mike Kelly any ideas about the new PCB board?

    Does anyone have a pinout diagram for the R1+ shown in the image below.
    I wonder if you could solder a header into the non-populated AUX+1 section?
    I can see a free 5v and ground on I2C but no spare analog? Any ideas.?
    24379237474_72bef557c9_c.jpg
     
    #11 robert sanchez, Mar 28, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2016
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  13. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @robert sanchez Soldering a header into AUX-1 is not a bad thing to do. That is the actual AUX1 without pins that exist on all non-modified reference RAMPS 1.4 boards. Robo is just trying to save a few pennies here by eliminating what they feel is redundant.
     
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  14. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The RAMPS we used in the DLP did not have aux header pins either (it was a cheap-o). :)
    Had to do that same thing for the Servo control.
     
  16. robert sanchez

    robert sanchez Active Member

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    Updates have been made to the main thread, thank you all for the help.
    Sucks its actually more work for the R1+ than the R1.
     
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Let's hope the R2 is not totally closed hardware :)
     
  18. Joe Smith

    Joe Smith New Member

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    I did on my R1+ v3. The AUX1 pins were missing, but I happened to have a 4x1 pinout that I added to the board. Everything else with the install went very smoothly, and I get great reliable temps from it.

    EDIT 5 mins later
    Heh, so apparently I never came back to post how things went with this upgrade. Well, they went almost perfect! Going into this build I was having issues with initial heating taking 3-5mins, maintaining temperatures after the parts fan came on, and jams. I also plan to run PC and Nylon, so a better temperature sensor was going to have to happen. I purchased the PT100 sensor package from PrintedSolid; It's worth noting that I also upgraded to a 40W heater cartridge during this process, and completely reassembled my V6 from the ground up.

    The guide was used more as a reference than a step-by-step. My only real complaint was having to supply my own 3 pin F-F Dupont cable to connect the sensor board to the main board. I happened to have one laying around, but not many people do. Aside from scrounging that cable and the pinouts, the upgrade took less than 30 minutes of labor.

    As mentioned, I ran into the missing AUX1 pinouts issue, but luckily had a spare 4x1 header that I soldered onto the board. After that, it was a simple process. I used some double-sided tape to mount the PT100 board to the case and double-checked my connections.

    I fired the printer up, updated the firmware, then ran an 8-pass PID autotune at 215C using Octoprint. The numbers were much more in line with my expectations than in the past. I updated my PID in the firmware while I let the head cool down, and started it up. I hit 215C in less than 60s, 255C in less than 90s. Hottest I've gone so far is 265C, with most of my printing time split between 215C and 255C. Temperatures are ROCK SOLID. At 255C, my temperature graph is literally a straight line. The parts fan at 100% drops the extruder temp less than 2 degrees, and recovers in under 5s.

    I highly recommend this upgrade to anyone who wants perfect temperatures. It's fairly painless, teaches you the printer components fairly well, and the ROI is awesome.
     
    #18 Joe Smith, Mar 28, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2016
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  19. Hman84

    Hman84 New Member

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    Anybody installed a thermocouple on a Ultimaker 1.5.7?
     
  20. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Maybe someone on the Ultimaker forum has.
     
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