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E3D v6 Information, Installation Guides, and Review

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Mike Kelly, Oct 23, 2014.

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  1. Terry Reilley

    Terry Reilley Member

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    Does anyone have an opinion about this Wade modification as opposed to a novice drilling the stock part in order to accommodate the E3D v6?

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1404640

    This seems like a safer alternative to those of us who suck with power tools and/or their use.
     
  2. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    You can "drill it by hand with a sharp drill bit. I havnt printed that one but would be worth a shot, worse comes to worse you drill the other :)
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I printed that one as part of an entire replacement Gregs Wade unit.
    It printed fine, but I have not had a need for it so it (and the other bits) are all still in a box :)

    (because, spares)
     
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  4. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Lol you have that box of stuff you need ... But as long as you know where the box is won't... Too! Awesome ! Thought I might have been the only one
     
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  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yep. you found me out. ;)

    Just like the watched pot that boileth not, the spares you are are never the spares you need.
     
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  6. NutsnBolts

    NutsnBolts New Member

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    Is this a worthy upgrade? I seem to be having a lot of jams with the stock head. Ran through some videos of replacing it with the e3d v6 head. Is it fairly straight forward and simple then? Any tips on wiring? Direct to board or to existing wiring? Need to print extrutors before replacing head?

    This it?

    http://www.amazon.com/E3D-All-metal-HotEnd-Full-Kit/dp/B00NAK9JFO
     
  7. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Yep, that is the genuine E3Dv6.
     
  8. Archania

    Archania New Member

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    Hi there. I just got the Robo 3D R1+ and I am just making sure that it is the 12v as stated on the first page of the E3D v6 that you need.
    I am just checking due to not knowing if it was for the kickstarter, earlier versions or what.
    Thanks.
    I did try to look through a couple of pages...
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The Robo3D is a 12v system for all models to date.
     
  10. Archania

    Archania New Member

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    Thanks Mark. Yet another order to do for E3D lol.
    Now to figure out Simplify with the Robo...
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Go through the tutorials on their web site. You will learn a lot :)
     
  12. Archania

    Archania New Member

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    Oh I have been using it for months for my Prusa i3 and soon to be BigBox. I am just looking at the G-Code beginning and ending scripts to see what if any I need to change.
    Thanks though. They did a good job with the videos that's for sure.
     
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  13. Todd Wessendorf

    Todd Wessendorf Active Member

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    Im preparing for my E3D for installation since the stock heat end that came with my machine in February clogged.

    I was brushing up on the proper seasoning techniques, and saw this:

    NOTE this is ONLY for all-metal hotends. Please don't try to season a hotend with a PEEK/PTFE/other plastic liner such as the JHead. Those don't need this treatment and it might cause trouble.

    The E3D doesn't have a PTFE liner inside the heat break, does it? Not the PTFE used for feeding (the 4mm OD / 2mm ID) one, but does it have an additional smaller PTFE liner? I noticed the knock-offs do like this one, but wanted to see if the "Real" ones do also.

    Also, has anyone had any issue with seasoning their E3D? My concern is after dipping the PLA into the oil, and then pushing it through, doesn't most of it get wiped off on the inside of the PTFE feeder tube?

    Thanks,
    Todd
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    No, it has the PTFE tube in the cold section.
    I have both the E3D v5 (no peek tube) and the v6 (current model) and have not only seasoned them, but run oilers on them for PLA.

    Very (VERY!) little oil is needed for what seasoning and the oiler are trying to accomplish. If you choose to use an oiler remember than ONLY a very fine sheen of oil should be on the filament as it feeds through.
     
  15. Sean Carson

    Sean Carson Member

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    I have an R1+ here and was able to get the firmware sent to me from robo3d, but only as a .cpp.hex file. I need to upgrade the firmware and I don't know which to use.
     
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  17. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    For my plus I used the lead screw upgrade version on the robo site. Changed what I needed and good to go
     
  18. Sean Carson

    Sean Carson Member

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    Would it be wiser just to use the latest Marlin?
     
  19. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I wouldn't. If it's not broke don't fix it
     
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  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Probably not if you don't have experience with the printer (or Marlin)
     
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