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E3D v6 Information, Installation Guides, and Review

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Mike Kelly, Oct 23, 2014.

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  1. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes, the firmware consists of multiple sketch files.
    CONFIGURATION.H is the one that contains the bits to edit.
     
  2. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    For the R1+ I would stick with their V1 version that is also called Leadscrew Upgrade found http://download.robo3d.com/firmware/R1/ROBO3D_LEADSCREW_V1.zip

    Just open the ino file called ROBO3DR1PLUSV1.ino. It will have multiple tabs and you want to go to the Configuration.h tab. Next scroll down to line 132 #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1 //robo and change the 1 to a 5. You then just save the sketch and compile. Now more than likely you will get a compile error and see a reference to fpos_t. With the newer Arduino IDE versions you will need to rename that to filepos_t or it will interfere with a global library variable name. Easy enough to do. SdBaseFile.cpp and SdBaseFile.h are the two tabs that have that struct name referenced. I just do a CTRL+F and fill out the form like below making sure to select the Search all Sketch Tabs and click Replace All. Now you should be able to cleanly compile (CTRL+R). With the printer plugged in via USB and no other programs open connected to it, you should be able to upload the sketch (CTRL+U). Just make sure under the Tools menu you have Board set to the Arduino Mega 2560 and the COM port set to the port your printer is connected with. One extra step I normally do after any firmware upgrade is to open the terminal window of your slicer program and send command M502 and then command M500 to reset the EEPROM with the latest values.

    fpos_t.gif
     
  3. TKCC71

    TKCC71 Member

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    Got it loaded successfully. Thank you. Mission success. :)
     
  4. Caleb Cangelosi

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    This was incredibly helpful for a newbie to Arduino like me. Thank you!!
     
  5. robertcfitch

    robertcfitch New Member

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    This helped a ton! Only problem now is that no matter what I do (change first layer height, z offset, etc) I cant get it to print actually OFF the bed. It's scraping the bed which is preventing it from even extruding. Any ideas?

    P.S. This only started happening AFTER switching to the e3d v6
     
  6. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    your z offset needs adjusted for the new E3D.
     
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  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes, the Z offset (normally done with the M565 in the startup GCode block) is specific to the mechanical layout of the printer and if you change anything mechanically then that offset will change.
     
  8. robertcfitch

    robertcfitch New Member

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    I tried changing it in s3d. I set it to .5mm and the first layer to 300% at .3mm layer height and it was still doing it.

    Strangely when I loaded the r1 (with auto level) profile in s3d instead of the r1+ profile it started working with 0 offset


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  9. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Am I reading that correctly? So your layer height for the print is .3mm and you are setting first layer to 300% that value? I can see you making first layer .3mm and the rest .2 or whatever. Seems like something else other than z offset is at play here.
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You shouldn't change multiple parameters in a single pass.
    You run the risk of not being able to tell what affected you.
     
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  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Also your best setting for layer height will be somewhere near the middle of the range defined by 30%->70% of the nozzle size.
    Doesn't mean you can't print outside that range, you totally can, but your best results will be in there.


    None of which would affect how the first layer is offset WRT to the bed from autoleveling.
    The Z offset is the only factor you need to adjust there.
     
  12. robertcfitch

    robertcfitch New Member

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    I was using .3mm layer height and set that to 300% (so .9mm plus the offset of .5mm) as a last ditch effort to get it off the plate.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
    #732 robertcfitch, Jan 6, 2017
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2017
  13. robertcfitch

    robertcfitch New Member

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    I generally print with my first layer at 90-100% of my layer height. That was just a last ditch effort after multiple attempts at adjusting the z offset in simplify3d did nothing.


    Any idea why it'd work great with the r1 (with auto level) profile but not the r1+ profile after installation?


    It's printing spot on now so this isn't emergent, I'd just like to understand what was going on there for future knowledge


    [​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  14. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Can you post your start gcode that wasn't working? Also, like Mark said, going above .3mm on a .4mm nozzle isn't ideal and going to .9mm is worse. So there must be some other solution. I normally print the first layer at .3mm for first layer no matter what my actual layer height is for the rest. Just old habits to get a good first layer. Also speed can play into it. What speed are you printing the first layer?
     
  15. robertcfitch

    robertcfitch New Member

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    This wasn't about getting a bad first layer. It was about getting NO first layer lol

    It was literally pushing into the glass and just sliding around instead of being slightly above. It couldn't extrude at all.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You could review the profile settings in detail, I have never looked at any of the pre-made profiles.
    I am a bit OldSkool and just create my own :) That way I know what is set for everything.
     
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  17. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    So isn't no first layer a bad first layer?
     
  18. robertcfitch

    robertcfitch New Member

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    I just meant as far as what advice was given that's all
    I didn't set it at 300% because I didn't know better but simply as a last ditch effort for at least something to work. I know that's not normally a great idea.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  19. Poplip200

    Poplip200 New Member

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    Help i can't get the thermistor to work
     
    #739 Poplip200, Jan 11, 2017
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2017
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Any software in this thread is old. Is your printer?
     
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