Show us your best Robo 3d print

Holy hell is right! Amazing work! This is stuff that people need to see to show what is capable, not only in 3D printing, but on our Robo3D machines, not some $2000+ machine.

 

Keep in mind that there was a great deal of post-processing that was done to all the printed parts after they were printed.
The blade segments were filed completely flat with metal files before assembly, and then sanded again with 220 grit to ensure the joints were smooth. The handle pieces were sanded before they were vaporpolished to ensure the smoothest surface possible, then sanded again to give the primer some extra "teeth" to bite into. The primer was then sanded to 600 grit.

 

This is true, but you still were able to print out the parts and turn it into an amazing piece of work. It also helps to know how to design your own parts. I designed my first "original" piece last night, something very simple that I will print tonight and post a picture-nothing amazing but it is an original piece of work and you have to start somewhere. That is how this hobby works. First you shed sweat and tears getting the printer to work, then experiment with stuff from Thingiverse and once it prints reliably on a consistent basis, you can advance to the ultimate level of designing your own stuff. No more Yoda heads for me! That's when the initial investment of money and time pays off.

 

I thought I would add my mask to this discussion:

Modelled in Sculptris
PLA @ 190
Bed @ 55
Laid down on it's back orientation to print.
Lower chin pointed up at 45 and worked out great

Created slightly smaller for the test print. Used a soldering iron to melt out any imperfections on the inside of the mask.

Any hairs or so will melt right in.
Better than sanding.
You can also use a heat gun.

 

I like old Honda's, specially from the 80's. I collect rare ones and restore them for a hobby. Now with the Robo3D printer I printed out a Honda Motocompo, I've restored 2 of them a few years back to "brand new" again. Here is what I printed:

 

So far, I would think this one (the print quality is superb):

 

nice lcd mount, do you have a better lit pictures of the sides of it?

 

Here you go:

 

Bringing this one up again because I just finished a print I find amazing. It is a Makerbot model of a mini saber tooth tiger. It has more surface detail than anything I have ever printed and it came out very nicely. While you can see the striae in the pictures, they aren't as noticeable in fact. This will probably be my last print on the old bed rails as I am switching to a rod based set up tomorrow (when my bearings arrive). The ROBO requires a bit of work to get right, sometimes a lot, but once there it does an admirable job for the price. This was printed at.2 resolution with a .4 nozzle on an E3D v.6 hot end with ColorFabb blue/white PLA/PHA filament @ .40 mm/s and 202C. I will be calibrating for nozzle output after the rail switch and hopefully minimize the layering even more. Rigidifying the Z/stepper mounts was already a big help.

 

OK, those pics were a bit too sharp... this one is more like what the eye sees.... damn camera...

 

I have to say this is my best print so far. I have been working with Simplify3d trying to get everything tuned in and I'm very impressed with the software. The supports come off with no problem and dont really even see a trace of them after they are pulled off.

 

I was just about to upload black yoda..... beat me to it

 

1D1 did you do any of the Ziggy mods for the z ribbing? I had it a lot like that too. Fixed me right up. this is a before and after.

Before


After

 

@AxisLab; I've haphazarded a few. Just upgraded to linear bed rails which helped. These small columns are .2 resolution and fairly tall and the pic is a very close macro that shows more than you can see or feel. Using the overshoot, underflow method, I am using a .4 nozzle with a .5 slice setting and a 92% flow and the results are very acceptable. I may have to reprint the sabertooth model but even as it sits here on my desk, it looks fine. It is only in the high contrast direct light photo that the ribbing is so apparent. After replacing, upgrading and rebuilding my first gen Chinese ROBO, I am finally getting the quality of results I'm proud of. I'm not complaining either - I knew what I was in for when I made the decision to buy. All the work I've done has only helped me to better understand both machine and process. Not that I haven't been fabulously pissed off along the way, but in the end, it has been a very positive experience for me. I understand that it isn't for everyone, but it works for me.

 

Very prominent ribbing there. If you are happy with it, then run with it.
However for me it was the easiest fix I could do.
2 ball bearings that you can get from any bicycle shop, they gave me them for free, dropped right under the threaded rods, inside the coupler. A little extra Teflon tape.

Took a half hour to fix, and greatly improved resolution from there on out.

I guess I can't wrap my head around how someone is content with flawed prints, but it's your world, not mine.

 

I think the satisfaction of actually making something blinds you from the flaws. It's not till you get comfortable with being able to complete prints that you start to be driven mad by the imperfections.

 

Good point, mike. Yeah I had the ribbing for a while, and your right. I was just glad to be printing cool things, and somewhat ignored it.
Problem is, it got much worse and would ruin anything I wanted to show..
And 1D1, it very well could get much worse for you as well, so it may be something to address early.

 

Well, I can certainly add a couple of bearings and see. As I'm not using the helical couplers anymore and have rigid couplers on the Z/stepper connection, that leaves slightly bent rods (there is still a small amount of wobble at the top) as the culprit, doesn't it? Or is my thinking as flawed as usual?
Thanks, guys.

 

Interesting, on that note with rigid couplers, I'm not sure if bearings would make a difference.
But the issue is most likely in the rods or couplers.

When you swapped the couplers did you change rods as well? to 8mm I assume?

 

This is a fix I haven't heard before. Could you be more specific on the fix?