Simplify 3d

Sla is to brittle for what I want, under stress it actually explodes, but for casting, its a clear winner.

 

@Joey

So I upgraded to the cyclops: http://e3d-online.com/Multi-Extrusion/Cyclops

What this means is that when you change colors you need to purge the filament out to get to the second color.

The typical method for this is a feature in cura called the Wipe and Prime Tower. Whereas it prints a layer of the tower, then does the first layer of one color, then the second layer. It then prints the 2nd layer of the tower and does the second color for that layer. Then up to the 3rd layer, and 3rd tower layer, etc...


Can you think of a means of accomplishing this? Perhaps could this feature be integrated into later versions of Simplify3d?

 

From reading the Simplify forums, they really don't have a real good support for dual at this time, maybe Joey can chime in and tell us what he thinks.

 

Simplify3d in action. Completed xxl lcd holder (from @Mike Kelly)

Check out the easily broken away supports.

Done with r1+e3d v6, robo3d white PLA, with raft

 

Awesome print. I have that same knife

 

Mike where is the XXL holder that is shown above, is it on thingsaverse.

 

See @Mike Kelly previous post on his enclosure (http://forums.robo3dprinter.com/index.php?threads/mike-kellys-robo3d-enclosure.2712/)

 

Yea, we could add something using the Tool Change Scripts and get that up and running for you! The key information would be to know how much filament needs to be purged out for each tool change, then we'd be good to go from there.

Using a tall skirt and the built-in tool change retracts there we've been able to get some really nice dual-extrusion prints here in the office. A key variable in dual-extrusion printing we've found is temperature. If the temperature if your nozzle is too high, for instance 230C on PLA, the filament will be too viscous and have too large of a heat-zone to really control the filament and make retracts/primes as needed for a clean print.

We also recently added the ability for advanced tool-change scripts, these have if-statements and allow for customizing which helps for cases like Mikes where you have a customized part and have custom needs. It just takes a bit of familiarity with G-Code to get acquainted with. A user on our forums recently posted a tutorial on the scripts tab and G-Code if you're interested.

http://www.forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1959

 

Right now it looks like about 35mm^3 to get a full color transition. Might be less for lighter colors but my black stuck to the red for a bit. It would be useful to have a variable amount.

Here's the github for cura: https://github.com/daid/Cura the wipe and prime tower should be in there.

 

Has anyone else had issues with Simplify3D prints not waiting for the setpoints to be reached before starting a print? I have the box checked but it'll just start right up without waiting so I have to have everything pre-heated before going.

 

This is over SD

Code:

G90
M82
M127
M140 S110 T0
M134 T0
M104 S230 T0
M133 T0
M104 S230 T1
M133 T1
G28 ; home all axes
G29 ; run auto-level
G1 Y10.0 Z15 F5000 ; lift Z by 5mm
G92 E0
G1 E-1.5 F1800
; layer 1, Z = 0.3
M135 T0

This is my startup code. Noting M140 and M104 instead of the wait heatup commands. Not sure how to resolve it. I guess I'll make a new profile

 

Robert: What settings did you use for "support", i.e. spacing, direction, line/grid, etc?

 

see attached for simplify3d, process file.

 

Thanks! Question: Why the slower rate 2000mm/min, instead of "default" 3600mm/min? Does this produce better print quality? (i.e. smoother edges, sidewalls, etc?)

Also, you're G28 ; home x y z does not work on my printer, I need G28 X0 Y0 Z0 to get homed on all three axis.

For autolevel, any thoughts about starting from X0, Y0 instead of center of glass bed?

 

Fir the x0 y0 question see @Mike Kelly

In regards to speed I was building a 3"dia 7.5" tall tube with geometry so I slowed it down to ensure accuracy. You can speed it up depending on your print.

 

Have a question, after a bed leveling wizard, should I use Automatic bed leveling for each print?
Or just do G28 then G1 Z-1?

 

anyone feel like taking some screen shots of their settings in simplify3d? been trying to dial in my robo3d r1 and having some trouble

 

I can send you my FFF file when I get home. I have mine dialed in just right (for my printer).

You will need to change your z offset to match your printer.