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KTMDirtFace's Robo3d

Discussion in 'Show and Tell' started by KTMDirtFace, May 19, 2015.

  1. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    I told you it would take a few hours of printing to smooth out the bearings! :)
     
    KTMDirtFace likes this.
  2. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Didn't even take that long, was like 20 minutes!
     
  3. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Wayne from http://www.printinz.com/ sent me a sample of a new prototype Zebra Skin.

    I have been using the Zebra Plate for awhile now, printed a full halo helmet on it its great. The zebra plate is double sided and you have to clamp it down with clamps. The Zebra Skin, is not out yet so he gave me a sample. Its basically the top half of a zebra plate with adhesive on the other side.

    He is still working out the adhesive, the stuff that is on it now will basically never come off, so he had me put tape down first so I don't ruin my print bed.

    Its much thicker than build tak, so it went down really easy without getting bubbles under it.

    I don't have any good prints with it yet because of totally unrelated stuff/problems with my robo, I will post results soon as I solve my unrelated issues.

    Here are some pics of the install.
    [​IMG]

    Whatever this is is too sticky
    [​IMG]

    Started putting tape down
    [​IMG]

    Trimmed it
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Installed
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    #83 KTMDirtFace, Mar 2, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 2, 2016
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  4. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    That looks far nicer than my old printinz adhesive backed plate. Maybe I should rib on wayne to get me one of them
     
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  5. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Finally figured out what was up with my Robo3d. ( I didn't have the RAMPS fan plugged in right so it was overheating and doing all kinds of crazy things ).

    Printing now on the Zebra skin and its working fantastic. Only printed PLA and PLA/PHA so far. I will try PETG next, though I can pretty much gurantee that will work because I printed a halo helmet on the Zebra Plate with PETG.

    The thing I like about the stick on zebra skin better than the zebra plate is it lays flatter, the plate tends to bow up in the middle and get bumps in it eventually.
     
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  6. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    If I can get ninja flex to extrude I will try it as well on the Zebra Skin.. Ninja Flex on build tak was a really bad idea...it does not come off of build tak. It might do a little better on the zebra surface.
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Getting ninjaflex to stick to the bed was never really a challenge.
    The fact that is was floppy (as opposed to flexible) was the challenge :)

    I love SemiFlex. The NinjaFlex should work fine on the Zebra Skin.
     
  8. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Yea it sticks to plain glass just fine. I'm just worried about it sticking too well like it does on Build Tak.

    I'm basically trying to find a surface material that will work for everything I have. I'm lazy and don't like changing surface materials or cleaning up glue. BuildTak works the best for ABS ( and pla/petg, etc..but ninja flex becomes fused to it and is nearly impossible to remove..unless you make your Z offset really huge then you get ugly base layer.)

    Zebra does not work as good as build Tak for ABS, but I don't use ABS anymore so I don't care.


    EDIT: Hmm PLA/PHA from printinz sticks really good to the zebra, not sure I can get this off.. waiting for it to cool down hopefully that will help.
     
    #88 KTMDirtFace, Mar 20, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2016
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    So far only a couple of specialty filaments have given me serious gas sticking to the glass.
    Most of the stuff works fine (although some fiddling around with the Z offset and initial layer settings are the key).

    Printing on the painters tape spoiled me -- it was so forgiving ... not sorry I switched, but it meant a lot of testing.
     
  10. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Painters tape does work good for PLA.. and your settings can be all screwed up.

    Well, this PLA/PHA is FUSED to the zebra skin now. I have been chiseling away at it for awhile.. my arm is tired now lol.

    If I can get it off, i'm going to raise my Z offset and try no bed heat because it is so fused its insaine. If I cant get it off my Zebra skin may be done for.\

    EDIT: got it off in tons of pieces, mostly shrapnel lol - my print broke all up leaving parts of the first layer still down. I had to just chisel the heck out of it for probably 20 minutes to scrape all the pieces off. Never seen anything stick like this before.

    Raising my Z now and turning the be heat off.

    I didn't have this problem with PLA, but this PLA/PHA is fused.
     
    #90 KTMDirtFace, Mar 20, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2016
  11. jonnyb44

    jonnyb44 Member

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    Have u tryed a tempered glass screen protector. That's my next thing to try


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  12. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    No but I have this sitting here on my desk to try. its a little too narrow though. I might have to cut the exess and stick it down in the corners where the bed leveling happens i never print way out there anyway. its basically PEI.

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D84GNYC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

    Managed to get the PLA/PHA off my zebra skin, but i was chiseling with the robo3d chisel for a long time.. then i had to sandpaper some of the rest off.

    Re-trying my print now with a higher z offset and no bed heat and it looks promising. With BuildTak and Zebra, if you get that first layer really smashed down..this happens where it becomes infused with the surface and will not come off. On a side note, if I had done this with build tak I would have ruined the build tak. The zebra held up and didn't tear or get holes in it. But i 'm surprised I didn't break my printer I was REALLY slamming the chisel into the stuck bits over and over.
     
    #92 KTMDirtFace, Mar 20, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2016
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Excellent ideas. That is what really controls the sticktion (it's my word, deal with it) of the base layers on all materials.
    Some are just more picky than others :)
     
  14. jonnyb44

    jonnyb44 Member

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    That might melt


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  15. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Yea I know but when you mess up with BuildTak, or Zebra or whatever and get the first layer WAY too stuck..your basically screwed. On glass its fine it comes off. With these special surfaces its a nightmare. Usually I start with a high Z offset and work my way down.. but it printed fine in PLA, so I switched to PLA/PHA with only a temp change and it became fused lol. It seems to be working ok now with a higher z offset and no bed heat.
     
  16. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    It shouldn't its PEI as the main ingredient. there is some other posts on here somewhere of people using PEI sheets from amazon. It would melt if i did auto leveling with hot nozzle, but i have S3D setup to wait for the nozzle to cool before auto leveling..for BuildTak and Zebra. I'll try the screen protector eventually..maybe lol.
     
  17. jonnyb44

    jonnyb44 Member

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    Let us know how it works. I'm going to order a tempered glass sheet and see what happens and post results


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
    Geof likes this.
  18. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Wayne from PrintinZ just told me

    Note: we are talking about this material http://www.printinz.com/pla-pha-filament/
     
    #98 KTMDirtFace, Mar 20, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2016
  19. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    So far even with zero bed heat PLA/PHA sticks like superglue to the zebra skin, I raised my Z offset up and its like throwing string down looks bad and still sticks like crazy. Doing some more tests but I may have to put painters tape on top of the skin to be able to print with this PLA/PHA stuff. not sure yet. Regular PLA worked fine by the way.

    Some of it might have to do with the PLA/PHA material, at least for me when it comes out of the hot nozzle it comes out fatter than even the unmelted filament its crazy. it comes out of the nozzle and expands. I'm going to try lowering the temp.

    This could all just be me..who knows i'll keep testing.
     
    #99 KTMDirtFace, Mar 21, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2016
  20. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Just ordered another Robo3D haha R1+ this time . I like having two printers. My other one is a modified replicator2, but I find myself using the robo more..and at this point I know it inside and out and there is a community ( there is none for my replicator that I can find )

    I want both printers to share the same parts for backup reasons. It gets annoying having to buy different sized build tak, and other random parts...nozzles..etc they don't share. It also gets annoying trying to decipher my simplify3d and gcode files. Some are for my rep2 some are for the robo...and i forget to do a naming convention so that i know.

    Heavily modded and pimped out replicator 2 is going up on ebay soon as my new robo gets here and while its still in demand ( its the last good printer Makerbot made ). :)

    Yay tax returns lol
     

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